Author Topic: Weber carb set-up (Read 151743 times)

Tintop · « **Reply #325 on:** June 02, 2013, 06:23:43 PM »

Just got home from it Bear. Posted an update in my sidecar thread. Think I'm very close on the jetting now.

scottly · « **Reply #326 on:** June 02, 2013, 07:00:28 PM »

Quote from: Tintop on June 02, 2013, 05:39:02 PM

Quick update on the jetting in the 40DCOE on the sidecar.

Mains - 135 / Airs 175 / Emulsions F11. Nice tan centre. Now idles (50F9's) @ 1500 without loading up. No flat spots, and pulls red line+.

So what was changed since the last test? Was it only a change from a 185 air to a 175?

Tintop · « **Reply #327 on:** June 02, 2013, 09:12:45 PM »

The change from 140 mains to 135 was too lean, with the 185's. The 35 pump didn't add enough back on the top end (WOT). Tried 180 airs in practice and the plugs looked better. So I tried 175's....nice tan colour, good pull on the top. Note I'm running one heat range colder than stock, and they are iridiums.

There are still some other things to try to fine tune. However, I need to get it on a dyno and find out what the A/R is now, before I make any other changes.

scottly · « **Reply #328 on:** June 05, 2013, 07:04:32 PM »

Posting some pics here to show Bill P. how to retain the choke and auxiliary with a flat bottom stack or airbox.

BPellerine · « **Reply #329 on:** June 05, 2013, 07:17:42 PM »

yes scottly I see what you are talking about would not be hard to do the taper on the aux is what you are talking about right?let me know what you want for them.bill

BPellerine · « **Reply #330 on:** June 12, 2013, 06:01:38 PM »

some pics of my carbs to be mounted this weekend.bill

BPellerine · « **Reply #331 on:** June 12, 2013, 06:06:54 PM »

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/pellersw/B4C46911-2EB6-4228-89AC-5B70D6573DD6-570-0000004CD041B044.jpg?t=1371084424
oops!

scottly · « **Reply #332 on:** June 12, 2013, 07:00:06 PM »

Bill, it appears the gaps between the carb body and the auxs are already filled? Are there sleeves fitted over the auxs?

Tintop · « **Reply #333 on:** June 12, 2013, 07:17:09 PM »

Those aux's are like mine scotty, their designed to use a stack that bolts on with a flange. The ones with a gap use a stack that slips in between the aux and the body. I'll take a picture of mine & post tomorrow.

Bill, is the alloy brace between the carbs positioned so you can attach it to the stock air box point on the frame? If so that will prevent 'carb droop'. Needs to be flexible thought so it doesn't transmit vibration. I've used an exhaust hanger, two 6mm bolts vulcanized into the opposite ends of a rubber bush. Think it was a BMW part.

scottly · « **Reply #334 on:** June 12, 2013, 07:40:50 PM »

Quote from: Tintop on June 12, 2013, 07:17:09 PM

Those aux's are like mine scotty, their designed to use a stack that bolts on with a flange. The ones with a gap use a stack that slips in between the aux and the body. I'll take a picture of mine & post tomorrow.

Thanks. All my aux's were for a slip-in; I wasn't aware of the other style...

Tintop · « **Reply #335 on:** June 12, 2013, 08:06:04 PM »

I'm like you scotty, all the 45's I've ever had were the slip in kind. Kind of thought that was the norm until the 40 I'm using now. Can't remember what the 38's on the Spitfire were like, it was a long time ago.

754 · « **Reply #336 on:** June 12, 2013, 10:15:26 PM »

On the 2 screws you see behind the jet wingnut, MPD mounted a trianular tab with a rubber mount with 1/4nc thread coming out each end.(same as HD oil bucket or battery tray mounts). Then you nent up the airbox mounting tab at a 90 degree angle, and one end fit thru there x2.

In Bills case, he could go from the alloy bracket, up to the backbone.
Bill if you need a billet bracket for the cable , get me a sketch.

BPellerine · « **Reply #337 on:** June 13, 2013, 06:05:31 PM »

thanks for the offer frank will see when I get them mounted.So the confusion over the aux is sorted I did not know why you thought they had to be held in scottly .brian the bracket that I made out of alloy replaces one that was on the carbs that was made out of 1/4 steel.whatever I use from there will go up to backbone and will use a spare stock coil mount to attach something flexable to cushion if that makes sense.may do something along the same lines for throttle mount with cable mount from old set of cvs.thanks guys.bill

Tintop · « **Reply #338 on:** June 14, 2013, 04:23:45 PM »

pic of the flange mount stacks on my 40DCOE scotty. note there is no gap.

BPellerine · « **Reply #339 on:** June 14, 2013, 05:36:19 PM »

your carb is soo clean brian your fuel line is very nice as well.bill

Tintop · « **Reply #340 on:** June 14, 2013, 06:20:00 PM »

thanks Bill, got lucky it's a NOS that had never been mounted.

BPellerine · « **Reply #341 on:** June 15, 2013, 01:26:30 PM »

here are a few pics of webers on bike for you .bill

yes I really do have a bike ha ha bill

Greggo · « **Reply #342 on:** June 15, 2013, 04:09:40 PM »

There's a nice setup on ebay...

www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB750-Weber-Carburetors-and-Manifold-1969-1976-/251289981726?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item3a820cd31e

Tintop · « **Reply #343 on:** June 15, 2013, 04:55:56 PM »

Hey Bill, take a look at those Webers on Ebay, they have to kind of support addition 754 & I were talking about. Not sure I'd pay the asking price though.

BPellerine · « **Reply #344 on:** June 15, 2013, 05:41:02 PM »

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Honda-CB750-Weber-Carburetors-and-Manifold-1969-1976-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/JxQAAMXQCgpRu2Wm/$T2eC16dHJIkE9qU3lQ1iBRu2Wk6f0!~~60_14.JPG
wow very expensive compared to the 500 I paid for mine shipped.I see the mounts they were used on nortons as well for exhaust mounts .Good idea. have my frame cut for kit but will have to go back the maximum for jet changes.bill

johno · « **Reply #345 on:** June 15, 2013, 06:49:22 PM »

For $900 shipped thats a high price !
the carbs are approx $400 each new and a fabricated RC lookalike manifold for around $150
I guess the throttle cable and filters have some value but at that price I would go new.

But the $bills add up lets see.
2 x carbs
1 x manifold
4 x manifold rubbers
8 x clamps
Carb frame mounts
Throttle and cable
return springs
Air cleaners
Rejet or chokes

Ching ching $$$$$ ding ding a simple exercise can creep up on you $ wise

These carbs are going against the flow price wise, I dont know if its my imagination but overall I think the deals on US ebay are getting cheaper as things get tighter, I see some great bargains over there that make me lose sleep at night stressing about the freight costs to get the bargain to oz

Any way Bill your on the horse now mate , hang on and enjoy the ride, no turning back now.

BPellerine · « **Reply #346 on:** June 16, 2013, 03:21:12 PM »

yeah johno there is no turning back for me.I think those carbs were listed awhile back for a lower price someone posted a link on this thread to them.bill

Tintop · « **Reply #347 on:** June 16, 2013, 04:22:27 PM »

You did well to find a set of 38's with a manifold. Personally I like the 38's because their just that little bit smaller than the 40's. Would like to do a VR1000 with some IDA's for a sidecar, think it would make an interesting setup.

754 · « **Reply #348 on:** June 16, 2013, 06:37:01 PM »

Bill you sure you cant get the jet caps off? Looks like there maybe room but not easy like on the splayed ones.
Your aircleaner tabs,were they already bent ?maybe it had Webers before....

BPellerine · « **Reply #349 on:** June 17, 2013, 05:54:16 PM »

I can get the jet caps off but it is impossible to get the inside main out .I bent the air cleaner tabs a little to get carbs on they will clear but just.made up a bracket for cable now I need to get it on the linkage.did I hear you say you used an electrical connector on cable?Iknow there are more trick ways but would get it going.bill

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Author Topic: Weber carb set-up (Read 151743 times)