Topic: Weber carb set-up

[scottly]

A crimp-on electrical connector will work for the short run, but they are very difficult to remove without damaging the throttle cable.

[Tintop]

Somewhere in one of my boxes I've got cable making parts Bill, just not sure what piece you need.  That said, try a bicycle shop for cable ends.

[754]

 I will describe what I have,  A piece of say 5/16 square brass, turned round to fit thru your linkage arm.  The round part is long enough to fit thru arm, then a washer, and hole for small cotter pin. The square part is approx 5/16 long, drilled  in from the side about 1/32 bigger than your cable size. Then a hole drilled in from the end on center , and tapped ..a screw in there binds against your cable..holds it all together. 
 Measurements are approx, the square stock , could be round.  Tinning your cable after you cut stock end off would help..

 The stock adjusters are on both ends of my cable, lower end need to fit in a bracket or the manifold, then the cable end slips thru the hole, in the fitting I drew, and gets clamped with the screw.

[Tintop]

Bill, took another look at your setup.  What you need is a 'crimp-on clevis' & pin.  You can get these from Motion Pro.  Here's the link to the custom cable page, click on the 'metric fittings' tab.  About half way down that page is the clevis you need.  You'll also need an adjuster.  Could probably use a clutch lever one, and fab up a mount for it.  This is a very similar cable to the one they made for my 550 rear brake conversion to cable.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/

[Tintop]

Can't find a pic of the brake end, but both ends were made with a clevis & adjuster.  The brake end goes through a rod end so it can move with the wheel motion, and retain alignment.  This was made by Motion Pro.

[754]

Bill, i looked again at your pics, looks like you may have to mount a bracket of the middle of the valve cover, or. Or bring the cable up from underneath the linkage but that would mean longer cable. The fitting I showed was sold by Jammer and Barnett, easy to make on lathe, can just about do it on drill press, if you are careful.

[BPellerine]

thanks frank for the pic I have my bracket mounted to backbone and stock cable mounted using an old cable mount off 650 cv carbs cut to fit drilled and held by coil mount clamp my only concern will be attaching to linkage so will try bycicle shop to see what I can find or order clevis brian .as I said frank my main jets will not clear the frame with thi setup so maybe a short piece of 7/8 round bar as removeable piece of frame kit ? brian I sold all of my cable making stuff when I got out of bikes along time ago wish I had them now!bill

[754]

I think the longest jet is 3 pcs, could pull apart to disassemble..if main is the shorter ones,they should comd out with a screwdriver blade and wrench, or tommy bar.
 If I cant get at the jets on my RC manifold, I will be pissed..

 You should be able to make a clevis to  fit stock cable..either flat bar bent over something, or carve out of a piece of3/8 aluminum.

[Tintop]

Unfortunately I know there isn't a clevis in the stuff I have.   It's why I had Motion Pro make one for me.

[BPellerine]

I had a clevis made up to fit stock cable but the cable is too long so I will have to cut it and do something else.the small bolts on cold start levers might work?Iwill make it work!bill

[Tintop]

Sounds like a cable anchor might solve your problem.  The cable wire goes through a hole in the threaded part between two washers and is clamped by the nut.

Something like this.  http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99005.357.htm

[scottly]

My bike has a brass part like Frank's drawing. It looks like the holes in your throttle lever are very large? The pin on my part where it goes through the lever is only 3 or 4mm.

[Tintop]

The part in Frank's drawing, and what your describing scotty is the Weber part #99005.357 that I supplied the link too.

[BPellerine]

thank you guys but I have solved the problem at least for now.I did some more adj to the linkage and cable and now my home made clevis traps the stock cable end and moves freely. clevis with slot to slide cable in and is trapped once in.my goal is to use stock cable so no special order when needed.light throttle! now on to fuel lines going to run them around the rear of carbs so they do not mess up linkage.Frank I can get the idles out but not the mains.if one of the frame kits you make is installed as far back as you can put it and the joint is positioned right the jets will come out.this is what I am going to do cant have all this talk about easy jet changes being untrue ha ha .I if you have a way to mock up you will see.bill

[valt]

Alright so I have some confusion here. It appears that my carbs won't work on this RC manifold with the two sided throttle linkage. Do they make a single sided linkage or a linkage that connects two carburetors?

[Tintop]

All the various linkage components for Webers are shown on this page -
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/181.htm

What size Webers are those?

[BPellerine]

they look really close together manifold modded?bill

[valt]

All the various linkage components for Webers are shown on this page -
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/181.htm

What size Webers are those?

They are DCOE 40s.

[754]

They cut the shafts, where the carbs meet, will try to get a pic later today..

[Retro Rocket]

That manifold looks like its been cut and shut in the middle....?

[valt]

they look really close together manifold modded?bill

The RC manifold has closer inner two runners.

I just found a picture of exactly what I am after, what is this throttle shaft and where do I find one?


You can see on the inner part of the throttle shaft it is flush.

*edit*

Yes I have mentioned previously that my manifold is a copy. It was cast as two pieces and welded in the middle.

[Tintop]

re shaft..you make it.  Couple of rod ends, piece of rod, and a couple of the levers & links as shown on that page I posted the link to.

[Tintop]

Was looking at the picture of an RC setup at the beginning of the thread.  It looks like the nuts that hold the retainer and seals are missing where the two carbs come together in the middle, and the shafts have been cut back.  Does it use the minimal clearence between the carbs to keep the seals in place?  scotty, 754

[754]

I dont know what hold t the dust covers or ends on,they may be threaded
I could not get a 1/8 inch drill bit between the 2 bodies...
 Anyway none of my Webers have a top piece as pictured,I suspect they are  not 40DCOE..but may be wrong the giveaway is the two raised lines in the top casting at about. 45 degree angles, non of the 3 sets I have here, have that. Now it could be he difference in where they are made, mine are all bologna, some are now Brazil or elsewhere.

Some find Webers jetting a tad daunting..but I dont find it so,, look what apI got with my first set..

[scottly]

Does it use the minimal clearence between the carbs to keep the seals in place?  scotty, 754

The seal is held in place by a thin brass cover, pressed in.
Valt, when you first posted pictures of your manifold, I believe the question came up regarding the spacing between the two inner spigots, and how it would compare to a "real" RC?
Edit: found the pic of the seal and cover.