Author Topic: Does a Speed Bleeder release brake fluid before you press the brake lever?  (Read 1141 times)

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Offline elquenada

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I bought a speed bleeder (SB7100) on ebay for my '75 550.  The first one that came would not pass any brake fluid at all and it did not seem to be blocked anywhere.I contacted the seller and I recieved a second speed bleeder today.  This one was a bit stubborn at first but then the fluid started coming out.

My question is should there be fluid seeping out the nipple even when the brake lever is not depressed?  I thought the valve inside would keep the fluid passage closed until the brake lever was depressed.

I get a decent lever but It still feels a bit spongy.  Is this thing defective or am I doing something wrong.

« Last Edit: March 31, 2010, 07:09:16 pm by elquenada »
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Offline OldSchool_IsCool

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In theory, if the bleeder is cranked down, it shouldn't leak fluid under any circumstances.  With it loosened about a half turn, it will pass fluid if the fluid is under pressure.  It shouldn't take much pressure, so the weight of the fluid higher than the bleeder (i.e in the hoses and the reservoir) may be enough to overcome the internal spring and seep.

When I bleed my lines, I plan on using most of a 8-ounce can.  when you think you have pumped all you have strength to do, close your bleeder tight, crank you handlebar to the extreme left and tie the brake lever back.  Leave it over night.  All the little bubbles will work their way up to the reservoir and will sponge up ur brakes no more!

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Offline elquenada

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thanks for the response.  Im pretty sure the first one I got wa defective but two in a row seemed a bit coincidental, especially after all the great reviews Ive read of this product.   I will have to give it another go tomorrow and try tying back the lever this time.
1975 CB 550

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por la misma razón deleita el gusto" 
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Offline 76CB5WI

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As long as your top and bottom lines arent occluded you can bleed
with a mity vac or what have you with the MC cover off and draw fluid down
through the whole system..no waiting..
Then just screw your top cover on and give a few pumps to build pressure and
your done..

I had one where the top line was blocked and My MC return port was blocked
as well..small pinhole up top. If you dont see the level in the MC begin to drop
quickly theres a block somewhere.
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Offline malcolmgb

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Never a good idea to leave master cylinder pressurised as mentioned previously, all it does is force the fluid to absorb the air, yes you feel a good pressure but the fluid is contaminated with air.
This was what I was taught years ago by a race mechanic.
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Offline Tim.

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When I use a speedbleeder on my BMW, I open it up, put a hose on it, fill the MC and pump.  I keep pumping and topping up the MC until I've thrown a good bottle+ of fluid through the system and it's coming out with no air bubbles.

I've never had a defective speedbleeder.  The valve mechanism inside doesn't keep the fluid in - it's just like any other bleeder in that respect - when tightened down, the passageway in the caliper is blocked.

The speedbleeder valve is a one-way valve to only let fluid out, not suck air/dirty fluid back in.  You have to make sure you open it off the caliper fully to allow the fluid to flow out well.
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Offline chickenman_26

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when you think you have pumped all you have strength to do, close your bleeder tight, crank you handlebar to the extreme left and tie the brake lever back.  Leave it over night.  All the little bubbles will work their way up to the reservoir and will sponge up ur brakes no more!
That's an old racer trick to make the brakes as sensitive as possible, and it lasts for about one race. There's no bubbles rising to the top, air being absorbed by the fluid, etc. But it does make the lever have less travel and appear to be firmer. So folks have invented all sorts of reasons for themselves as to what's happening.

Disc brakes are self-adjusting. You squeeze the lever, and rather than sliding through the piston seal, the brake piston distorts that seal slightly as it moves toward the rotor. Release the brake lever, and the rubber piston seal is what pulls the piston back away from the rotor as it returns to its original shape. If there's excess clearance between the pad and rotor before you apply the brake, the seal will reach its limit of distortion and allow the piston to slide through slightly - that's the auto-adjustment. When you apply the brake firmly and tie off the lever over night, you're simply allowing the seal time enough to relax and slide back over the piston without retracting it. This puts the pads in very close contact to the rotor with the lever released, so lever free play is almost nil. This feeling won't last more than a couple hundred miles, as pad wear returns the lever free play to normal.

Stu
« Last Edit: April 02, 2010, 02:42:30 am by chickenman_26 »
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