Topic: 1975 CB550 Super Sport project ***Headlight update 7-18***

[Zaipai]

Thanks for the early present, but Boooooooooooooooooooo on the tank.  Hold on to that thing with your life, they are apparently extremely hard to come by.

Mine looks okay from the outside but leaks through many pinholes from the underside.  I gotta figure something out.

Well I have seen some here use JB weld to stop the leaks (after dealing with the rust) then clean the tank as good as you can and then coat the inside with a tank linner.. All and all not that expensive, the tank sealer is like $45 for the good stuff and  few bucks for JB weld.. It should work and be cheaper then a tank in better shape.

Here is what was used in my tank and is holding up great!
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/product.jsp?store=&catId=222&leafCatId=22205&skuId=3152&productId=p3152&mmyId=

.: Scott :.

[Spikeybike]

ther's some JB in your tank too Scott   

[Zaipai]

ther's some JB in your tank too Scott   

Proof positive that it works.. Good to know. So far this tank has had almost a full tank of gas (over a month now) and the only leak was at the hoses and the fuel shut off.. so that combo works fantastic!!

.: Scott :.

[RAFster122s]

brett-bike,

Use some metal filled epoxy on the leaks (JB Weld) and seal the tank with a POR15 kit and you shouldn't have future problems if you get a good seal with the POR15. Just be careful to get the tank bone dry and take your time.
Heat the tank up and let it dry for a while... a dry compressed air to help get it good and dry...
remove any scale either mechanically with nuts and bolts or electrolysis method after nuts and bolts and a good acid wash with POR15's metal prep. Definitely bone dry before coating the tank with the POR.
Otherwise the POR, a CyA adhesive type formula, will flash cure and that's a really bad thing as it will trap that moisture and rot even worse.

The POR15 works well and can be trusted to last if you follow the directions.
Otherwise you are going to need to replace the offending metal or replace the tank.

Going the JB Weld and POR15 route will cost you time and a few $ for the POR kit.
Alternatively, Eastwood company's kit could be used.

When you rinse the tank some 90% alcohol will combine with any water to help get any water out of the tank.
Provided it is safe for the etch solution and won't attack it...
The eastwood company kit uses muratic (brick) acid for the metal cleaner.

Need to start with a degreaser to remove any oil residue though...
Then move to the rust converter and etch and finally the coating.
The Eastwood kit would work or you could go with the POR-15 company kit.
Eastwood's kit is $34 and the POR15 kit is generally in $40 price bracket.
The POR15 kit includes some patching material for leaky tanks...

David

[brett_bike]

RAFster122s,

Thanks for the suggestion, I might have to try that.  What do I have to lose?  I've used POR-15 before with great success on my CB500, maybe it's a mistake but I don't even run fuel filters on that bike.

But...

I'm trying to take off the original bars, they are bent from being dropped, and install superbike bars.  How the hell do I get the internal wiring out from the stock bars?   There doesn't seem to be a section of wires that disconnects.  Am I supposed to cut and re-connect them?  Is there a spot inside the plastic box below the coils where the wires separate?

Any body?

[fastbroshi]

They run through and out the middle and disconnect after that.  If you remove the handlebar clamps and lift up the bars you'll see where they come out.  Just follow all that lovely black tape after that.

[RAFster122s]

I've not torn into the wiring on my CB550 to know but on my other Hondas...
Typically the wiring is attached to the switch bodies and you pull the wiring after removing connectors where it ties into the harness (often in the headlamp bucket) and the wiring stays attached to the switch bodies.
It generally is in a sleeving that can fit through the holes in the handle bar. You'll probably need to insert the ends into the inside of the bar one by one.
Some  WD40 can help lubricate the sleeves.
Same on getting the bullet connectors out of the end of the bar at the switch body area...one at a time. The wiring not covered by  the sleeve will have to be pulled through and one by one get the wires out.

Wouldn't imagine your bars getting bent enough to crimp the wires...

Dental floss fed through the bars and attached to each connector end  can help get them out in the  middle.
Just have to keep the tension on them and not overstress one connector end when pulling the wires.
A stiff wire can get the floss through the bars.
my advice on the wiring.

David

[Spikeybike]

 Is there a spot inside the plastic box below the coils where the wires separate?

ding ding ding  we have a winner

[brett_bike]

Shoot-Dang!!!  It WAS inside the box.  That box was a SOB to get off and not break, although I WAS successful.  On go the superbike bars.

[Zaipai]

Can you get a shot of that box once its on again? Kinda wanna see it compared to how mine is. There are no good images in the Clymer book I have.

.: Scott :.

[brett_bike]

Yep, I'll get a shot of it all going back together.  Since I'm installing superbike bars that are about 4" lower than the stock bars, I think I'll have to shorten the wires some.  Keep checking back, I'll have something up in the next couple of days.

By the way, how is yours set up?  Got any pics?

[Spikeybike]

i went from stock to straight drag bars and didn't have to shorten any wires ... you may have to get a new brake hose though

[Zaipai]

Yep, I'll get a shot of it all going back together.  Since I'm installing superbike bars that are about 4" lower than the stock bars, I think I'll have to shorten the wires some.  Keep checking back, I'll have something up in the next couple of days.

By the way, how is yours set up?  Got any pics?

Well that's just it. I don't have any box or cover of any kind. The wires are bunched under the tank so I am curious to see how it should look.

.: Scott :.

[brett_bike]

Here you go Zaipai-

Well, I got tied up between work and doing a little work on my CB360t, but her is the wire cluster box all buttoned up.  Pretty clean I think.  However, I may have to get back inside because my headlight doesn't work and it did before I hooked everything back up.  Electrical is my nemesis.  I took pics before I pulled any wires, but they were deleted off my camera by accident.

[Zaipai]

Thanks man.. This actually helped in 2 way, 1) I believe I have the wrong wire harness and this pretty much confirmed it. 2) Now I want one of those boxes, so I will be trolling ebay for it..

Thanks very helpful! I know what you mean about the wiring.. Its the same for me.

.: Scott :.

[Spikeybike]

Now I want one of those boxes, so I will be trolling ebay for it..

oooh good f'n luck dude .. been looking for one o' those for years ... if ya find it.. grab one for me too 

[Zaipai]

Now I want one of those boxes, so I will be trolling ebay for it..

oooh good f'n luck dude .. been looking for one o' those for years ... if ya find it.. grab one for me too 

lol Ok.. I will do that.. Right after that I will go out and pick up some lotto tickets.. 

.: Scott :.

[brett_bike]

tell you what, i'll sell you mine.  $2000 and I'll throw in a free motorcycle.

[Zaipai]

tell you what, i'll sell you mine.  $2000 and I'll throw in a free motorcycle.

Hum.. I will keep you posted! 

.: Scott :.

[brett_bike]

So today I installed my new shortened clutch cable.  My local shop makes cables in any length you need so I had them make it 4" shorter to compensate for the new bars.  Today I will be installing grips, looking for a new seat or cover and start to button her up.

I'll post pics and video of her running soon.

I'll also be cleaning the carbs on my 360t.

[Stev-o]

What did you decide to do on the gas tank issue?

[brett_bike]

I bought a tank from member gmpb2 on this forum, it's off his '78 CB550.  I had to get a splitter for the fuel line but it seems to work so far.

[brett_bike]

Well, I'm stuck.  I get my new slingshot brake lines in the mail, rebuilt my MC and caliper with genuine Honda parts, bled my system, but it will not pressurize.  Any ideas?  I'm at a loss.

[TwoTired]

There are two holes in the MC reservoir.  One is large the other very tiny.  The tiny one must be clear.

[75cb550 (kyle)]

There are two holes in the MC reservoir.  One is large the other very tiny.  The tiny one must be clear.

it cant sometimes be a PITA. on the goldwing had to use an E guitar string and CLR/tooth brush. you can check it in a dark room with a flashlight shined into master cylinder (on the end). if you cant see light, it's not right..
(wow, a rhyme.)