Topic: Question about the "solenoid"

[lowmileage]

Hey buddies,

Trying to get the small stuff sorted out before  riding season.  This may sound  stupid, but the solenoid is the same as the "Solenoid switch" isn't it  .  I think I need a new solenoid and on Page 703 of the Dennis Kirk catalog, I can get a new one for the relative cheap sum of $37.99. 

Also while I have your  attention, where is the starter relay located?  Just wondering if maybe that might be the problem on why the electric starter doesn't fire up.  That's all for now.  All have a Happy Easter.

Fred

[HavocTurbo]

You mean starter solenoid?

I might sell those as well... let me check.

Most of the time bad connections will destroy electrical components.. you check there first?

[Fritz]

Solenoid, "Solenoid switch" and starter relay refer to the same device.

Before you invest on a new one, you can easily check the on you are suspecting:

Take if off you bike and connect the two small wires (primary coi) to a 12V battery. You should here a "click". While connected, measure for continuity between the bigger connectors/screws. If this test turns out good, you might get away with your old solenoid and the problem could be somewhere else: Starter button, weak battery, bad connectors, ...

Get a work shop manual

[Johnie]

Yes, you can rebuild those. They get corroded and only use half of the copper contact bar. You can clean it up or turn it over and use the other side. It should work fine as long as the other components are good. There is a good "how to do it" in Hondaman's book. Probably also on this board somewhere in the FAQ.

[lowmileage]

  Holy smokes, look at all the replies  from my Honda buddies  .  Ok, both are the same - solenoid and relay, I didn't (exactly) know that.  I did take it apart, cleaned it up and still NG.  It does "click" but when I tested the voltage out of the unit, it was only at 4.5 volts or so.  New battery so it's getting 12+ volts going in - actually closer to 14 when I first hit the starter button from it coming off the battery tender.  I couldn't get at the top part of the bar that is located inside the solenoid.  I think cause of the wires that are permanently connected to it.  I figured for $35 bucks I'd give the new one a shot at that being my problem.  I also took (FWIW) the starter button apart.  Thanks all again for your advice.  Maybe I'll take it apart again this weekend and see what happens before I order a new one on Monday.
Fred

[Spanner 1]

Before you buy a new solenoid, did you get 4.5v on the 'out' side with the starter wire connected or dis-connected ? Could be a short in the starter cable or the starter 'stuck'...... did you try the starter by shorting-out the big terminals with a screwdriver, no ignition on or starter button ' pressed' is required to try this...

[lowmileage]

It was with the starter cable connected.  This is what happened.  I went to start the bike last summer after getting it out of storage after 20 + years.  Did a bunch of stuff and when to start it.  The electric start worked fine.  Bike didn't start so I tried the starter again a couple of times.  Didn't try spinning it to long each time - maybe about 4-5 seconds each time.  then the last time I tried, it didn't work??  I then thought it might need brushes but when I took the starter out, there were really fine.  Being I had the brushes, I put them in.  Made no difference.  I'll try bridgeing the 2 solenoid connections.  Won't be able to report back though till Monday.  thanks for the help.
Fred

[Frostyboy]

With a good battery & the s/motor working when it's off the engine (?) I think that's what you said, are you sure the engine isn't locked up?
With a voltage drop to 4.5v in start position maybe it simply can't turn the engine.
Does it have a kick start? I'd be checking that the crank actually turns before going too much further down the electrical path.

[Bodi]

One decent test of the starting motor is to jam a screwdriver between the big terminal studs on the solenoid. DO NOT touch the bike frame or other good ground when doing this! Connecting the two studs together completes the circuit and the starter motor should turn. If it doesn't, the problem is not with the solenoid switch/relay. DO NOT touch the bike frame or other good ground when doing this!
Use an expendable screwdriver and touch between the nuts on the studs, not the threads. There should be a lot of amps flowing when you connect the studs together and you should get a big spark when you disconnect them. The screwdriver and whatever part of the studs you're touching can get damaged a bit: not bad on the nuts but thread damage will make the nuts rather difficult to remove.
The contact bar should come off the actuating rod, allowing you to file it clean or turn it over. The cylindrical part where the two small wires connect does not come apart. The two contacts are part of the studs, if you remove all the nuts and washers they push out and can then be cleaned and dressed (filed to a smooth shape).

[Frostyboy]

One decent test of the starting motor is to jam a screwdriver between the big terminal studs on the solenoid.

What page of the workshop manual is that stated I wonder.

If you really are desperate enough to ever use this method, ensure that:
- you are wearing protective gloves & eye wear
- the area around the battery has been cleared of explosive hydrogen gas
- remove the fuel tank from the bike, (the fire mightn't be so bad that way)
- cover the hoses that you removed from the tank & eliminate any residual fuel
- have a fire extinguisher on hand
- check the insurance on the house is up to date
- go to the tool shop & buy a new screwdriver just like the one you used to have.

Sorry, but my background forbids me from condoning this method of testing except maybe if I was stuck out the back of Burke & had no other means to do it. Even then I think I'd try pushin' it.

[faux fiddy]

Yes, you can rebuild those. They get corroded and only use half of the copper contact bar. You can clean it up or turn it over and use the other side. It should work fine as long as the other components are good. There is a good "how to do it" in Hondaman's book. Probably also on this board somewhere in the FAQ.

+1

Take care when taking it apart. The wires in  the coil are  very  fragile adhave to come apart in a  certain order or  they will break, btyo can get  inside  them if you want, and clean up the contacts. There is a  small dscon the bottom  of  the coil/ spring,that is easy to loose or damage,too, but be careful with everyting and loosen everything  before taking the top off.

Or if you buy  new one, don't  ever toss the old one; save it in case of armageddon.