Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!? (Read 248433 times)

Vinhead1957 · « **Reply #400 on:** March 14, 2013, 07:36:20 PM »

The key to getting it drilled out is to center the first small drill size and gradually work up to a size that doesn't interfere with the threads. Using left hand drills increases the possibility of the stud releasing its grip and working itself out.

Stev-o · « **Reply #401 on:** March 14, 2013, 08:39:14 PM »

Bet your getting NO interest for the sale of the Ducati. Saw the ad, no contact info!

SKTP · « **Reply #402 on:** March 14, 2013, 10:35:23 PM »

You are right. Zero replies. I'll have to double check. I thought you could email via Craigslist email? Thanks for the head's up!

Stev-o · « **Reply #403 on:** March 15, 2013, 08:46:15 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on March 14, 2013, 10:35:23 PM

I thought you could email via Craigslist email? Thanks for the head's up!

You can, but you must have elected not to by mistake.

SKTP · « **Reply #404 on:** March 20, 2013, 08:14:44 PM »

Ok! After aquiring grade 10 nuts from fastenal, double-nutting became extremely easy. All studs removed except that first one...god I wish I had been more patient. So anyways, now it's new skill time...

So I got a fairly centered hole going and now what? I'm hoping that worst case senecio I can have this helicoiled or something? It not "that structural" right?

Bits taped off for the correct depth

I ran out of light and figure left handed might now be the way to go?

I was hoping that heat and liquid wrench and hitting to with an awl-type thing might get it out but so far it's not moving...

I'm so close! Must be patient

RAFster122s · « **Reply #405 on:** March 20, 2013, 08:55:44 PM »

Maybe you need to try some:
http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail_print.aspx?PN=03020

motocyconomad · « **Reply #406 on:** March 21, 2013, 05:02:09 AM »

machine shop time. off center hole. yikes.

Vinhead1957 · « **Reply #407 on:** March 21, 2013, 05:33:12 AM »

Little bigger drill bit. Go as big as can without interfering threads preferably left hand bits

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #408 on:** March 21, 2013, 07:16:08 AM »

That drill depth looks pretty shallow, did the hole go all the way through the bottom of the stud? Also, heat seemed to be your friend while extracting the other studs, so you may consider applying heat while you drill. The left hand bit is the way to go from here, start small and gradually work your way up from there (I usually start at about 1/8"), but you must drill all the way through the offending stud. If you used the other stud holes to gauge the depth then you should be good. Work your way up to an increasingly larger bit (left hand) until it either turns itself out or you run out of steel (stud) and start getting into the aluminum. At that point I will start to try to pick out the remaining steel threads. if there's still to much "meat" of the stud left then I break out the diamond stones on the dremel and start grinding away at the remaining steel portion. I can usually grind it down to a point that I can start to pick the steel threads out. Occasionally I'll have to resort to helicoil, but most of the time I win.

Patience,
Patience,
Patience,
Patience,
Patience,
Patience,
Patience,
Patience,

Oh yeah, did I mention bring you patience?

SKTP · « **Reply #409 on:** March 25, 2013, 02:11:56 PM »

OK...so after drilling and then drilling some more...I did not have the right tap so my nextdoor neighbor let me use one of his (see photo)..I thought that maybe it would help eject the threads so I gave it a shot.

So it tapped the bolt perfectly with that size...when you look in the hole its perfect threads...I so I figure, just buy a bolt that matches that thread and has a similar head and problem solved...

Question: Do you think this will be ok and that bolt exists? I'm thinking yes...

Also, as I am totally not framilar with non-metric bolts, what do these numbers mean and are there different thread pitches?

iron_worker · « **Reply #410 on:** March 25, 2013, 02:36:26 PM »

It's a 1/4" major diameter thread and 20 threads/inch.

Why would you use an imperial tap?

IW

Syscrush · « **Reply #411 on:** March 25, 2013, 02:47:08 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on March 25, 2013, 02:11:56 PM

So it tapped the bolt perfectly with that size...when you look in the hole its perfect threads...I so I figure, just buy a bolt that matches that thread and has a similar head and problem solved...

Question: Do you think this will be ok and that bolt exists? I'm thinking yes...

No, I really do not think that would be OK. You'd be much better off drilling the hole out to a larger size and installing a heli-coil.

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #412 on:** March 25, 2013, 02:56:44 PM »

You can drill it out and use that tap but it is better to just helicoil it and have matching thread pitches. I just did this on my bike. There were two holes that were tapped oversize and American that I justttttt got lucky and had enough meat to tap for the helicoil.

Do it right so you only do it once. The helicoil will be better than the soft stock aluminum

SKTP · « **Reply #413 on:** March 25, 2013, 03:08:56 PM »

Ok...so Helicoil is a brand and this video makes it look straight forward enough.

Any recommendations where to buy?

bjbuchanan if you have the product number of what worked for you (assuming you are talking about exhaust-stud/mounts) that would be great...thanks all

http://youtu.be/RFYa6sjhh_E

SKTP · « **Reply #414 on:** March 25, 2013, 03:15:09 PM »

http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/TI-9130/

Ouch! These are expensive

or I guess I could just go this route....

the tap ($26.92): http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/TI-7900/

the coils ($0.76): http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/TI-3170/

I will have to measure how deep the hole is

Syscrush · « **Reply #415 on:** March 25, 2013, 03:36:16 PM »

To be clear, I still think that your Plan A should be to buzz out the bolt until only threads are left, and then use a pick to try to get those out. If you end up with threads that are no good as a result, THEN Plan B can be to drill it out bigger and install a heli-coil.

SKTP · « **Reply #416 on:** March 25, 2013, 03:41:25 PM »

Aren't the original threads aluminum (in the head)? I think the Standard tap threads could totally work...I know its not perfect but how would it be weaker? I hope I never have to remove the exhaust ever again ever anyways....

754 · « **Reply #417 on:** March 25, 2013, 04:16:18 PM »

Your stud must still be in there,1/4 would fit inside the stud that should be 8mm..about the same as 5/16.
A 1/4 countersunk bolt wont fit in the spigot as it drilled and countersunk owr a bigger bollt and bigger tapered head. You still may get the stud out but I will warn you dont try a conventional easyout.. The spline type may work..but get some heat in there..

SKTP · « **Reply #418 on:** March 25, 2013, 04:21:42 PM »

Ok..I will continue to try to get those threads out..Right now, is like a threaded on the out side and threaded on the inside drinking straw (maybe with the 2-o'clock area overlapping into the head...so slightly thicker (of the stud threads) at the 7-o'clockish)...have used lots on liquid-wrench and I hold the torch on there for 2 minutes at a time

fun times

754 — you are talking about one of these?

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0128339

754 · « **Reply #419 on:** March 25, 2013, 04:37:28 PM »

You mean like a handheld bernzomatic ?.. Can hold it there two months and would not hurt it.. Just check the head above where you heat it,,if you spit onyour finger and drop it there and it dont sizzle it is still cold.

If you had welded a nut to it, the stud would have gotten RED HOT.... And not hurt the head..

SKTP · « **Reply #420 on:** March 26, 2013, 12:57:20 PM »

So I need this:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-2734-Piece-Set/dp/B003K15ERK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Am thank you for putting up with me...the M8 means the hole without threads is 8mm? What drill bit size is just the hole and not the threads?

EDIT...the answer obviously is SIZE J

754 · « **Reply #421 on:** March 26, 2013, 09:51:48 PM »

If you have a bit of time could probably make a drill bushing, welded into an old spigot.. That wood keep the drilling straight..

SKTP · « **Reply #422 on:** March 26, 2013, 10:02:11 PM »

Sadly I have no access to that sort of equipment.

754 · « **Reply #423 on:** March 27, 2013, 08:20:14 AM »

Its just a matter of machining a bushing,and tacking it to an extra spigot..if someone close by maybe has that. Its just that at this point, things can go wrong.. With the countersunk hole in the spigot the thread has to be very close to centered.

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #424 on:** March 27, 2013, 10:05:50 AM »

I strongly reccommend AGAINST switching to "full size" (bolt I.D.) drill bit at this point. If you are off-center then you will drill into aluminum. Continue drilling, with left-hand bits, increasing a little each time, until you start getting into the aluminum, or the offending portion spins itself out. The straighter, the better. Once drilled out as large as possible, start picking at what's left, or even grind at the steely bit with diamond stones in a dremel...

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-18-shank-rotary-diamond-point-tips-69653.html

Have you drilled all the way through the bottom of the broken stud?

News:

Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!? (Read 248433 times)