Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - not good

[MCRider]

Ah that makes sense....I'm a little slow this morning...day light savings and all

So #4 should be rider's right? I have the #4 plug wire rider's left

Yes, its 1234, left to right while sitting on the bike. 1 and 4 are interchangeable, as are 2and 3.   

[SKTP]

First drive around the block yesterday....got up to 3rd gear. So far so good.

Need to go over all the torques and rebuild my front brakes, put on the fork brace and fender...also figure out some wiring/light issues...but it is getting closer

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Awesome, Chris!!! I expect a big grin came over your face after that photo!

Or is that the "oh, wait, I have no brakes" photo?

[SKTP]

Here's an annoying question...what front brake pads should I order?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I used the EBC pads with my GL calipers and EBC rotors.  No squeaks! 

[SKTP]

Having electrical issues. The rear taillight is not working...searching for the issue...all other lights work and it is not the bulb...to make it extra fun...it was working before I connected the front lights...nothing changed at the back end

[MCRider]

Having electrical issues. The rear taillight is not working...searching for the issue...all other lights work and it is not the bulb...to make it extra fun...it was working before I connected the front lights...nothing changed at the back end

Man I hate that. 9 out of 10 times, its a bad ground.

[Restoration Fan]

Having electrical issues. The rear taillight is not working...searching for the issue...all other lights work and it is not the bulb...to make it extra fun...it was working before I connected the front lights...nothing changed at the back end

Congrats on the runner, Chris.  It sounds & looks great.
This may be a stupid question but have you tried disconnecting the spring from the rear brake pedal and using a pair of pliers to pull down on the spring?  My rear brakes weren't working @ first on Stella and we found that we just needed to adjust the nut higher so that the pull created a longer "throw" and that made it start making contact and making the light go on.

I'm assuming the brake light works with the front brakes?  If so, you can rule out a bad bulb.

Otherwise, I'd just start testing the wires...starting with the 3 wires at the light and test the voltage with the brake pedal pressed down and not pressed down.  Then work your way back to the battery.  The good news is that the back brakes should be easier to diagnose than the front because you have fewer wires to deal with back there.

[SKTP]

UPDATE:

Lights
Well the electrical is giving me issues. Should the taillight work without the rat's-nest connected up front? Initially I thought that it should...but now I am thinking no...Last night I got the taillight to light up but it and the dash lights are only working with the blinkers....I have something plugged in wrong

Brakes
Well I had leaking issues at the piston last time..and I do again...I have 4 calipers...only one seems to hold the seal...I have new seals and pistons...I think I will just bite the bullet and try to find a NOS caliper...I am sick of this

Starting
It is hard to start and so far I have been unable to kick start it

Neutral
Near impossible to get into neutral while running...I put NOS shiftier forks into it...hoping they "wear in" and make neutral easier. I doubt I have gone 1 mile yet

Engine leaks
So far only the smallest leak. a tiny drip off the alternator while on the kick stand...could be just old and grime coming off the cases? Wishful thing? Either way it is barely leaking is at all and is MUCH better than last attempt so far

fingers crossed

[firebane]

First drive around the block yesterday....got up to 3rd gear. So far so good.

Need to go over all the torques and rebuild my front brakes, put on the fork brace and fender...also figure out some wiring/light issues...but it is getting closer

You know... This is one of those pictures I always question when I see these bikes. Either you are a giant human being making the bike look small or you have done things to the bike to make it appear smaller lol.

I was amazed at how big my bike is after seeing pictures and people on it and you are one of those people that make it seem smaller than it is.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

First drive around the block yesterday....got up to 3rd gear. So far so good.

Need to go over all the torques and rebuild my front brakes, put on the fork brace and fender...also figure out some wiring/light issues...but it is getting closer

You know... This is one of those pictures I always question when I see these bikes. Either you are a giant human being making the bike look small or you have done things to the bike to make it appear smaller lol.

I was amazed at how big my bike is after seeing pictures and people on it and you are one of those people that make it seem smaller than it is.

Chris is not a petite dwarf!

[SKTP]

You guys are cracking me up...I hope to figure out what the hell is happening with the wiring this weekend....the new brake caliper has been ordered. Photos of the terrible grooves that leak are here http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,156538.0.html

Still like to know if the rear taillight, and 5A fuse for that matter (not brake light) lights up with out connecting stuff in the headlight bucket?

Side bar: I'm 6'3" maybe 6'4" and the bike has 19" front and 18" rear (I believe stock was 17")

I feel my thread has also become unpopular...Your bike looks great

Nonsense, Chris.  You have a bunch of members waiting to see your bike as it makes its way through the shakedown process.

Yep, fifteen and a half thousand views, stop whinging and get on with it....

[firebane]

So yes in my world you are a giant lol.

[SKTP]

How I spent my Sunday....so I really went through the wiring harness and re-taped it all together (any recommendations for a less glossy tape? I used Electrical tape)

Turns out, it is way less scary that I had thought...I understand what's going where and how much better now AND my tail light works again! (see that one with the yellow bands?...that one's important for the taillight) Thank you tester-light!

[Bigsam302]

DEI has this stuff called Fire Tape. It looks like electric tape, but it doesn't have the sticky residue. It sticks to itself and you can reuse it (I think, I have to take a set of my wires apart this weekend). I bought a roll and it is great, plus its withstands 500 degrees of continuous heat. The only bad part is that it is expensive.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[70CB750]

I used this:



great tape.

[SKTP]

Drove it all round a 1 mile radius of my house yesterday...still not trusting it completely...but all the gears appear to work!
- Neutral is near impossible to get into while running (NOS shifter forks, old shift drum)
- it is very hard to start and there seems to be a loose connection to the electric starter somewhere...I have not started looking yet...you can see the battery draws current but no starter-motor engagement, but then it will work...and then it won't
- the oil pressure switch is always on...need to trace those wires and test...how do you test the switch? Will investigate

So far, so good...




so far, no leaks!

My brake leak set up...so far, not leaks!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Nice moto-Depends you got there, Chris!  No leaks!  Woohoo!! 

[RAFster122s]

I think it was Brent Waller or SohRon who did a very nice job of documenting the shifter mechanism beneath the cover. It has several spots that can cause the shift mechanism to be difficult to engage gears.  Did you run it through the gears before buttoning up the cases?
Are you sure you got the washers and clips oriented correctly on the shafts for the gears and shift forks?

Good luck sorting it out.

David

[SKTP]

Yes. I checked the transmission thoroughly before sealing it up. I have read that NOS shifter forks can take some miles to wear in? It is only hard to get into neutral when running.

Right now I'm more confused about why my electric start stopped working. You can see the headlight dim when the button is pushed...but the starter motor is silent. It has been working with out issue previously during this rebuild.

[MCRider]

Yes. I checked the transmission thoroughly before sealing it up. I have reward that NOS shifter forks can take some miles to wear in? It is only hard to get into neutral when running.

Right now I'm more confused about why my electric start stopped working. You can see the headlight dim when the button is pushed...but the starter motor is silent. It has been working with out issue previously during this rebuild.

Neutral is often the tough one. Usually the clutch plates are sticky. Did you do the HondaMan clutch center mods? Essentially drilling more oiling holes to get more oil into the plates at idle and beyond, when the clutch is pulled in. Seems to help.

[knowsnothing]

Yes. I checked the transmission thoroughly before sealing it up. I have reward that NOS shifter forks can take some miles to wear in? It is only hard to get into neutral when running.

Right now I'm more confused about why my electric start stopped working. You can see the headlight dim when the button is pushed...but the starter motor is silent. It has been working with out issue previously during this rebuild.

Neutral is often the tough one. Usually the clutch plates are sticky. Did you do the HondaMan clutch center mods? Essentially drilling more oiling holes to get more oil into the plates at idle and beyond, when the clutch is pulled in. Seems to help.

My 78 is also a pain the ass to get into neutral when the bike is fully warmed up and at a stop.  Neutral is a lot easier to find while the bike is rolling so I try to get in to neutral before coming to a complete stop if there is going to be a wait. 

I mentioned this to an old timer local guy who knows his #$%* and he told me it was just one of the characteristics of these bikes. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

My 550 is stubborn to get into neutral at stops after riding for a while.

[seanbarney41]

I have found that when you don't get it into neutral before you stop, just let the clutch out enough to bump into the friction, point, but not enough to actually move the bike or stall it, while pre loading the pedal towards neutral...usually slides right in...

[SKTP]

So I touched a tester-light from a green ground to oil pressure switch. This resulted in a spark and the main fuse blowing. Trying to figure out why the oil-pressure idiot light stays lit...also why the starter stopped working...