Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!? (Read 248435 times)

SKTP · « **Reply #375 on:** March 11, 2013, 05:32:44 PM »

Switching over to older style spigots for my older style exhaust...although I only know from the interweb....God I hope I am correct (pretty sure I am with the help of all these amazing members)...but if I'm wrong?!!?!!?!?!! I will lose my mind

BPellerine · « **Reply #376 on:** March 13, 2013, 06:36:46 PM »

I have a 78 as well and had to go through everything you are going through BEFORE I found this fourm but in the end it is worth it. wihhout knowing I have made my bike look alot like yours. why did you take your drag bars off? I put alloy 1 inch risers on mine. like your bike. bill

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #377 on:** March 13, 2013, 09:19:14 PM »

Don't forget to run a thread chaser into the holes to clean them up.

SKTP · « **Reply #378 on:** March 14, 2013, 11:47:48 AM »

What the heck is thread chaser?

Yes, I'm still stud removing (hope to this weekend) Still unpacking and searching for a (1998-2001) Honda CR-V for around 4-5 grand...

So anyways...I need to order GRADE 5 nuts to finish double-nutting these studs (see below) what do I order? They are 8mm but what thread? I will just take them to the crappy hardware store close to me to find out (I bought what they had and they just strip) if I have to, but you guys always know everything.

Figured I'd order from these guys and maybe they'd arrive on the weekend so I can skin the rest of my knuckles: http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

Thank you as always...Its so close I can taste it

Selling the Ducati BTW...the ad is here is you are or know anybody that is interested

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/mcy/3676720311.html

BPellerine— the drag bars were cheap and rusty, I too had bar risers on them (they are for sale, the risers. I should post them) I just like the Renthals way better looks-wise and confort-wise...I will find a link to your bike, I'd love to see it. Also, thanks

70CB750 · « **Reply #379 on:** March 14, 2013, 11:57:32 AM »

Standard M8 has pitch 1.25mm.

iron_worker · « **Reply #380 on:** March 14, 2013, 12:08:31 PM »

By thread chaser I believe he would mean a tap. You can run a tap in and out of the stud holes just to get all the corrosion out and any galling that may have occurred since they threads were seized in there pretty hard.

IW

SKTP · « **Reply #381 on:** March 14, 2013, 12:13:59 PM »

I'm guessing these will do the trick?

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0162317&ucst=t

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #382 on:** March 14, 2013, 12:19:23 PM »

Quote from: iron_worker on March 14, 2013, 12:08:31 PM

By thread chaser I believe he would mean a tap. You can run a tap in and out of the stud holes just to get all the corrosion out and any galling that may have occurred since they threads were seized in there pretty hard.

IW

Yeah, they are similar to a tap but are intended to clean out the threads vs cutting new threads in a new hole. Can't really tell you what the degree of difference is though.

Syscrush · « **Reply #383 on:** March 14, 2013, 12:52:43 PM »

Quote from: Jerry Rxman Griffin on March 14, 2013, 12:19:23 PM

Yeah, they are similar to a tap but are intended to clean out the threads vs cutting new threads in a new hole. Can't really tell you what the degree of difference is though.

A chaser is less aggressive, so you're less likely to really mess things up if you pick the wrong one or kind of cross-thread it.

There's nothing wrong with using a tap if you're careful with it.

Tintop · « **Reply #384 on:** March 14, 2013, 01:10:04 PM »

Taps cut threads, chasers only straighten, and clean. Usually you can only find them at places that sell to machine shops.

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #385 on:** March 14, 2013, 01:42:51 PM »

Metric thread chaser:

http://ww.sears.com/craftsman-40-pc-tap-and-die-set-master/p-00952105000P?prdNo=1

Worth every penny. I chase EVERY suspect thread. A drop of your favorite light oil helps nicely.

SKTP · « **Reply #386 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:01:41 PM »

Well, to get grade 10 metric nuts, I just had to order 50 for 8 dollars...who needs nuts? :p

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #387 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:04:16 PM »

Quote from: madmtnmotors on March 14, 2013, 01:42:51 PM

Metric thread chaser:

http://ww.sears.com/craftsman-40-pc-tap-and-die-set-master/p-00952105000P?prdNo=1

Worth every penny. I chase EVERY suspect thread. A drop of your favorite light oil helps nicely.

Same kit I have and I too chased all used threads on my restore. A good kit is hard to find. This is a good kit.

SKTP · « **Reply #388 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:09:10 PM »

Since tool links are happening, I can't find these "left handed drill bits" anywhere...need to get that broken bolt out!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #389 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:16:02 PM »

flanged nuts or regular?

SKTP · « **Reply #390 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:27:29 PM »

Ended up with regular. Couldn't get the high grade stuff with a flange

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #391 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:43:13 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on March 14, 2013, 02:09:10 PM

Since tool links are happening, I can't find these "left handed drill bits" anywhere...need to get that broken bolt out!

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=left+hand+drill+bit

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #392 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:54:07 PM »

You know, left handed bits are good 'in theory' but if that stud was that stuck do we think a left handed bit will turn the stud out? I have my doubts. Yes, it will drill the stud but so will a right hand bit. I'm thinking drill right handed then easy out it.

SKTP · « **Reply #393 on:** March 14, 2013, 02:56:18 PM »

Quote from: madmtnmotors on March 14, 2013, 02:43:13 PM

Quote from: SKTP on March 14, 2013, 02:09:10 PM
Since tool links are happening, I can't find these "left handed drill bits" anywhere...need to get that broken bolt out!

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=left+hand+drill+bit

I accept your burn

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #394 on:** March 14, 2013, 03:07:11 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on March 14, 2013, 02:56:18 PM

Quote from: madmtnmotors on March 14, 2013, 02:43:13 PM
Quote from: SKTP on March 14, 2013, 02:09:10 PM
Since tool links are happening, I can't find these "left handed drill bits" anywhere...need to get that broken bolt out!

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=left+hand+drill+bit

I accept your burn

I've been saving that one. You just happened to be the lucky winner!

Vinhead1957 · « **Reply #395 on:** March 14, 2013, 03:46:04 PM »

Easy outs are not your friend when they snap off. Then you have a real ballgame

Tintop · « **Reply #396 on:** March 14, 2013, 03:48:19 PM »

SKTP · « **Reply #397 on:** March 14, 2013, 05:00:22 PM »

I was talking to my friend. Why would I ever want to remove the spigots ever? Why not weld them on?

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #398 on:** March 14, 2013, 06:08:43 PM »

Quote from: Vinhead1957 on March 14, 2013, 03:46:04 PM

Easy outs are not your friend when they snap off. Then you have a real ballgame

That I understand

In this situation I'd be drilling that hole as large as the threads would allow BEFORE using any easy out but only if necessary. That hole would probably best be drilled big with the left hander and hopefully it would remove those final remnants. My concern mainly centers on a drill bit getting enough grip on something that is so stuck that it broke off in the first place and does not want to turn.

Weld steel to aluminum?? If you didn't get them positioned properly you're hosed. What about the copper 'gasket'. That gives you 3 different metals all with different heat tolerances and a welding unit melting some rod. Is this the same friend you talked with earlier

RAFster122s · « **Reply #399 on:** March 14, 2013, 07:16:30 PM »

I would liken a broken easy out to more of a boxing Knock Out event... Things get really bad, really quick when that happens.

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Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!? (Read 248435 times)