Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - not good (Read 248209 times)

SKTP · « **Reply #800 on:** July 01, 2015, 10:41:22 AM »

I'm poor this process began on April 05, 2010. If I want to got faster I will get a CBR1000

This bike use to cruise at 105mph easily, even with terrible valve seals

MCRider · « **Reply #801 on:** July 01, 2015, 10:45:01 AM »

Quote from: SKTP on July 01, 2015, 10:41:22 AM

I'm poor this process began on April 05, 2010. If I want to got faster I will get a CBR1000

This bike use to cruise at 105mph easily, even with terrible valve seals

I suspect it will again!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #802 on:** July 01, 2015, 10:50:44 AM »

On my next 750 project, I took that advice, too. I did not knife edge, but removed some material for balancing, then lightened and balanced the rotor. Well, Cycle X did.

SKTP · « **Reply #803 on:** July 09, 2015, 10:06:16 AM »

Bookmarking:

http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/PHENOLIC+Replacement+brake+Caliper+piston/PHENOLIC+Replacement+brake+piston+for+Honda+CB750F+and+late+model+K/

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #804 on:** July 09, 2015, 10:11:14 AM »

I use Godffrey's phenolic pistons on my dual GL1000 set up (on my CB750K7) and my dual CB550K1 set up. They are much lighter, but more importantly (for me) they will not corrode.

SKTP · « **Reply #805 on:** July 09, 2015, 11:13:53 AM »

I was having brake leaking issues (at the piston) during my first rebuild...Hopefully, new pistons and seals do the trick...I had 1 new steel piston and new seals before....I am hoping I just got bad seals...ironically, the very first time I rebuilt my brake caliper I didn't replace anything. I just took it apart and cleaned it and put it bad together and it worked great for years. When I replaced things and did it by the book, leaks! Third time is a charm....I hope

SKTP · « **Reply #806 on:** July 13, 2015, 10:17:09 AM »

Painting and polishing this weekend...I think I finally can afford to order all the remaining parts I need to reassemble! I need to ride this thing!!!

SKTP · « **Reply #807 on:** July 22, 2015, 02:11:07 PM »

I finally ordered all my gaskets and other bits to get this thing together. OEM for most. I ordered the Cycle-X "No Leak MLS Steel Head Gasket" and "No Leak
Viton Base Gasket" any reports on these?

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Engine%20Parts%20%28Non-Cafe-Gaskets%29.htm

Bigsam302 · « **Reply #808 on:** July 22, 2015, 02:47:58 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on July 22, 2015, 02:11:07 PM

I finally ordered all my gaskets and other bits to get this thing together. OEM for most. I ordered the Cycle-X "No Leak MLS Steel Head Gasket" and "No Leak
Viton Base Gasket" any reports on these?

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Engine%20Parts%20%28Non-Cafe-Gaskets%29.htm

I'm curious to know as well. I hope to be putting my heads together in a few weeks and went with the same gaskets.

From what I've researched, CycleX will tell you not to use any liquid gasket on the base gasket, but the head gasket holds up well. Most people put liquid gasket on the base gasket. One thing that I found is that if the top of your case was not decked you should put a thin coat of whatever liquid gasket you choose, but none on the cylinder side.

I'm sure that someone else will chime in, but I would like to know about this as well.

Sam

Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk

SKTP · « **Reply #809 on:** July 22, 2015, 02:51:37 PM »

I used the least expensive Cycle-X complete gasket-set for rebuild #1. I only used sealer on the cases and I had no leaks that I could see anywhere (other than the cam-tower puck leak, which was completely due to me not sealing the pucks/nickles).

SKTP · « **Reply #810 on:** July 28, 2015, 02:31:33 PM »

I plan on using "hondabond ht" to seal my camtower pucks/nickles — is this a good call or is it Permatex or nothing?

(I almost have all my parts/gasket/time to finish this thing!!!!! — almost)

SKTP · « **Reply #811 on:** August 05, 2015, 09:39:36 AM »

I'm going to try this again in the project thread.

What are you thoughts on the condition of my dogs and shifter forks? Would you put these into your engine?

Thank you for your input and expertise

edwardmorris · « **Reply #812 on:** August 05, 2015, 08:29:23 PM »

If I compare the dogs to the set I installed on mine, I'd say they're no good. Doesn't mean they wont work, just not as good as they can/should. Symptoms like slipping out of gear when riding and false neutrals are what show up later. However even for that, the forks have to be bent outta shape first. If you have Mark's book, there's a good description on how to check the forks. You will have to mic them to get the most accurate answer though. I just replaced mine with a set from a super young engine and they mic'd pretty close to new.

SKTP · « **Reply #813 on:** August 06, 2015, 11:57:56 AM »

Thank you for the photo...and insight

SKTP · « **Reply #814 on:** August 24, 2015, 03:46:16 PM »

Transmission sent to APE for undercutting

SKTP · « **Reply #815 on:** August 25, 2015, 10:09:08 AM »

It fits and it looks like it was meant to be...just have to figure out how to mount my signals..I think it's going to work well

754 · « **Reply #816 on:** August 25, 2015, 11:04:43 AM »

Looks good but is there a fender under the light..?

SKTP · « **Reply #817 on:** August 25, 2015, 11:07:05 AM »

No sir...I think that the light and seat will be the "fender" hopefully...I'm in California, it almost never rains

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #818 on:** August 25, 2015, 12:17:52 PM »

Chris, you may want to reinstall just the inner fender. Even in Long Beach you ride over water puddles occasionally -- enough to get water kicked up into your seat pan and cause rust/rot. Just my $0.02!

SKTP · « **Reply #819 on:** August 25, 2015, 12:21:05 PM »

It's basically covered by the inner plastic fender and the taillight mount (it's a aluminum plate that mounts to the fender mount and goes back like an "L" for the light)...I'll look into filling it in even more...but I think it's pretty good...I'm going to use that Heat-shrink stuff on the tail-light/ signal wiring back there

MCRider · « **Reply #820 on:** August 25, 2015, 12:27:26 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on August 24, 2015, 03:46:16 PM

Transmission sent to APE for undercutting

If you're on a budget or it otherwise appeals to you... usually the 4 upshifts are undercut. I figured there is not much point in undercutting the 4-5 upshift unless you're doing some high speed roadracing. I traded that for the 3-2 downshift, Big Jay charged me same 4 cut price.

Of course if you're cutting all the shifts, never mind.

SKTP · « **Reply #821 on:** August 25, 2015, 12:40:16 PM »

I think I am doing the "LC55-3"

http://www.aperaceparts.com/transmissions.html

I'm in this deep...

MCRider · « **Reply #822 on:** August 25, 2015, 12:52:20 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on August 25, 2015, 12:40:16 PM

I think I am doing the "LC55-3"

http://www.aperaceparts.com/transmissions.html

I'm in this deep...

That's up shifts only. As the price sheet says: "Up and Down cuts double price." You're not in that deep...

If they haven't started the work, and the idea appeals to you, you could still do it. I will say that the friend I have test riding my bike (as I can no longer ride) told me he can feel the difference between the undercut 3-4 and the non-undercut 4-5, so you'll be happy with up only. APE is mostly drag race shop so they do up only a lot.

When I was still riding was when I decided to forego the 4-5 for the 3-2 as that's how I ride. (rode).

SKTP · « **Reply #823 on:** August 25, 2015, 01:03:05 PM »

Thanks MCRider...that's something to think about for. Overall did your test-rider think the tranny felt good? I tried searching for "undercutting reviews" but didn't come up with anything

MCRider · « **Reply #824 on:** August 25, 2015, 01:09:41 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on August 25, 2015, 01:03:05 PM

Thanks MCRider...that's something to think about for. Overall did your test-rider think the tranny felt good? I tried searching for "undercutting reviews" but didn't come up with anything

Yes, the up shifts were more mental effort, than physical, it snicks into gear rather than clash. Only 130 miles so far, but lots of shifting.

Lots to do with how well your clutch is working and the oil too. I've been using Castrol 20w-50 MC Oil for the break in. Probably not the best, HondaMan has another favorite. Bel-Ray Mineral EXL I may switch to.

News:

Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - not good (Read 248209 times)