Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!?

[RAFster122s]

Sorry for misinformation...

[SKTP]

Thrilling non-photo update! The Top end is apart and I need to remove 1 stuck dowel-pin before I can send it off to APE for a resurfacing. In good news it appears the "pucks" did not leak this time...it appears to all have been head gasket from what I am seeing...I used the MSL gasket without resurfacing the jugs mating surface...not smart

[RAFster122s]

The pins may need to be shortened as well...especially when you skim cylinders and head.  Could that be the source of your leak?

[SKTP]

I am going to find out...Once I have everything back...if you put your head on with no gasket (just to test fit) should there be zero gap between the head and jugs if everything is correct?

[MCRider]

I am going to find out...Once I have everything back...if you put your head on with no gasket (just to test fit) should there be zero gap between the head and jugs if everything is correct?

Never done it that way, but that's what I would say. The thickness of the gasket is your margin.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Thrilling non-photo update! The Top end is apart and I need to remove 1 stuck dowel-pin before I can send it off to APE for a resurfacing. In good news it appears the "pucks" did not leak this time...it appears to all have been head gasket from what I am seeing...I used the MSL gasket without resurfacing the jugs mating surface...not smart

Don't worry about the pin, Big Jay will take care of that for you. He has good equipment  and it won't come back boogered up like you're probably about to do 

[SKTP]

That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch  that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

[MCRider]

That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch  that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

Everyone's got their tricks. Certainly if Big Jay will do it that's the best trick.  I had one that was buggered and cocked. I found a drill bit larger than the ID of the dowel but smaller that the OD. On slow of a variable speed drill, the bit took a bite in the dowel, and spun it right out.

[SKTP]

Blowtorch was a great success! Printing up the shop form now! Let's get this frickin' thing back together again!

[SKTP]

Block shipped to APE for resurfacing

[RAFster122s]

Let them know if you are going to use MLS gaskets...surface finish is much finer for the MLS than the traditional gaskets.

[SKTP]

Thanks...no, I am not using MLS again...I got NOS OEM Honda base and head for this try...will follow Hondaman's book to the letter +

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=107040.0

[754]

That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch  that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

Everyone's got their tricks. Certainly if Big Jay will do it that's the best trick.  I had one that was buggered and cocked. I found a drill bit larger than the ID of the dowel but smaller that the OD. On slow of a variable speed drill, the bit took a bite in the dowel, and spun it right out.

That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch  that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

Everyone's got their tricks. Certainly if Big Jay will do it that's the best trick.  I had one that was buggered and cocked. I found a drill bit larger than the ID of the dowel but smaller that the OD. On slow of a variable speed drill, the bit took a bite in the dowel, and spun it right out.

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Nnnnooooooooooooooo........just use a tap out of a tap and die set..soon as it bites, twist and pull up..heat helps..

[SKTP]

Thrilling update!

The bike currently looks like this...waiting for the jugs to get back from resurfacing. The speedo drive was glued on. My friend that works as a concept car fabricator assured me the crazy glue he had would work...I think I will drill two small holes into the hub and tap very small head-less screws to keep it from spinning for round 2...then I can finally get my BlackBomber speedo/tach calibrated...



EDIT...a note from a thread long ago by 754:

Even easier way;
 drill 2 holes into hub or wheel, 17/64ths.. about 1/4 in deep.

 drill 2 holes in the drive plate , 1/4 in diameter, weld in 2 pins so they stick out 3/16inch, then grind flush on outer side.

 NOTE, if you drill drive plate first, then use as a guide to drill the hub, you should be bang on.

[SKTP]

Block back from APE. Speedo-drive getting fixed tomorrow. GAME ON

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

YEssssss!

[754]

I hope it works now... Been a long haul for you..

[SKTP]

Pray for no leaks!!!!

[SKTP]

So here's how the speedo-mod for Lesters and double disks looks....still need to clean it up and paint it...I think it should work well



EDIT BOOKMARKING http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,142578.250.html

[rtbmrgl]

Thrilling update!

Looks like a S90 in the background, love that bike.

[SKTP]

Had my front wheel off already so I decided to paint my lower triple...man it looked gross...

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

It might be time for a new clutch cable, too.

[SKTP]

It's just the adjuster deal that is rusted so badly...but some bolt heads (like the 2 on the forks) and other...the brake line fittings...all are getting rust. I am very close to the ocean. I will search for stainless replacements....or paint, tighten, touch-up....I can't afford plating

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Run them through a brass wheel on your buffer.

[calj737]

Run them through a brass wheel on your buffer.

That takes off the rust, but doesn't restore the plating nor does it provide corrosion protection. Stainless replacements is the solution. Use a bit of antisieze installing stainless into aluminum and other metals.