Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!? (Read 250198 times)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1075 on:** December 14, 2016, 07:41:46 PM »

Sorry for misinformation...

SKTP · « **Reply #1076 on:** January 16, 2017, 11:42:57 AM »

Thrilling non-photo update! The Top end is apart and I need to remove 1 stuck dowel-pin before I can send it off to APE for a resurfacing. In good news it appears the "pucks" did not leak this time...it appears to all have been head gasket from what I am seeing...I used the MSL gasket without resurfacing the jugs mating surface...not smart

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1077 on:** January 17, 2017, 06:41:00 AM »

The pins may need to be shortened as well...especially when you skim cylinders and head. Could that be the source of your leak?

SKTP · « **Reply #1078 on:** January 17, 2017, 06:53:48 PM »

I am going to find out...Once I have everything back...if you put your head on with no gasket (just to test fit) should there be zero gap between the head and jugs if everything is correct?

MCRider · « **Reply #1079 on:** January 18, 2017, 06:27:49 AM »

Quote from: SKTP on January 17, 2017, 06:53:48 PM

I am going to find out...Once I have everything back...if you put your head on with no gasket (just to test fit) should there be zero gap between the head and jugs if everything is correct?

Never done it that way, but that's what I would say. The thickness of the gasket is your margin.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #1080 on:** January 18, 2017, 10:35:31 AM »

Quote from: SKTP on January 16, 2017, 11:42:57 AM

Thrilling non-photo update! The Top end is apart and I need to remove 1 stuck dowel-pin before I can send it off to APE for a resurfacing. In good news it appears the "pucks" did not leak this time...it appears to all have been head gasket from what I am seeing...I used the MSL gasket without resurfacing the jugs mating surface...not smart

Don't worry about the pin, Big Jay will take care of that for you. He has good equipment

and it won't come back boogered up like you're probably about to do

SKTP · « **Reply #1081 on:** January 18, 2017, 10:46:03 AM »

That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

MCRider · « **Reply #1082 on:** January 18, 2017, 11:04:18 AM »

Quote from: SKTP on January 18, 2017, 10:46:03 AM

That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

Everyone's got their tricks. Certainly if Big Jay will do it that's the best trick. I had one that was buggered and cocked. I found a drill bit larger than the ID of the dowel but smaller that the OD. On slow of a variable speed drill, the bit took a bite in the dowel, and spun it right out.

SKTP · « **Reply #1083 on:** January 30, 2017, 02:39:19 PM »

Blowtorch was a great success! Printing up the shop form now! Let's get this frickin' thing back together again!

SKTP · « **Reply #1084 on:** February 05, 2017, 05:52:35 PM »

Block shipped to APE for resurfacing

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1085 on:** February 05, 2017, 07:37:33 PM »

Let them know if you are going to use MLS gaskets...surface finish is much finer for the MLS than the traditional gaskets.

SKTP · « **Reply #1086 on:** February 06, 2017, 11:11:10 AM »

Thanks...no, I am not using MLS again...I got NOS OEM Honda base and head for this try...will follow Hondaman's book to the letter +

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=107040.0

754 · « **Reply #1087 on:** February 06, 2017, 04:54:38 PM »

Quote from: MCRider on January 18, 2017, 11:04:18 AM

Quote from: SKTP on January 18, 2017, 10:46:03 AM
That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

Everyone's got their tricks. Certainly if Big Jay will do it that's the best trick. I had one that was buggered and cocked. I found a drill bit larger than the ID of the dowel but smaller that the OD. On slow of a variable speed drill, the bit took a bite in the dowel, and spun it right out.

Quote from: MCRider on January 18, 2017, 11:04:18 AM

Quote from: SKTP on January 18, 2017, 10:46:03 AM
That's good news Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er...thanks! I was going to blowtorch that MuthaF'er!

Thanks

Everyone's got their tricks. Certainly if Big Jay will do it that's the best trick. I had one that was buggered and cocked. I found a drill bit larger than the ID of the dowel but smaller that the OD. On slow of a variable speed drill, the bit took a bite in the dowel, and spun it right out.

e

Nnnnooooooooooooooo........just use a tap out of a tap and die set..soon as it bites, twist and pull up..heat helps..

SKTP · « **Reply #1088 on:** February 20, 2017, 12:02:14 PM »

Thrilling update!

The bike currently looks like this...waiting for the jugs to get back from resurfacing. The speedo drive was glued on. My friend that works as a concept car fabricator assured me the crazy glue he had would work...I think I will drill two small holes into the hub and tap very small head-less screws to keep it from spinning for round 2...then I can finally get my BlackBomber speedo/tach calibrated...

EDIT...a note from a thread long ago by 754:

Quote

Even easier way;
drill 2 holes into hub or wheel, 17/64ths.. about 1/4 in deep.

drill 2 holes in the drive plate , 1/4 in diameter, weld in 2 pins so they stick out 3/16inch, then grind flush on outer side.

NOTE, if you drill drive plate first, then use as a guide to drill the hub, you should be bang on.

SKTP · « **Reply #1089 on:** March 09, 2017, 01:03:11 PM »

Block back from APE. Speedo-drive getting fixed tomorrow. GAME ON

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1090 on:** March 09, 2017, 01:56:11 PM »

YEssssss!

754 · « **Reply #1091 on:** March 09, 2017, 07:50:53 PM »

I hope it works now... Been a long haul for you..

SKTP · « **Reply #1092 on:** March 09, 2017, 09:48:51 PM »

Pray for no leaks!!!!

SKTP · « **Reply #1093 on:** March 13, 2017, 10:24:26 AM »

So here's how the speedo-mod for Lesters and double disks looks....still need to clean it up and paint it...I think it should work well

EDIT BOOKMARKING http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,142578.250.html

rtbmrgl · « **Reply #1094 on:** March 13, 2017, 10:15:07 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on February 20, 2017, 12:02:14 PM

Thrilling update!

Looks like a S90 in the background, love that bike.

SKTP · « **Reply #1095 on:** March 20, 2017, 10:42:16 AM »

Had my front wheel off already so I decided to paint my lower triple...man it looked gross...

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1096 on:** March 20, 2017, 11:20:07 AM »

It might be time for a new clutch cable, too.

SKTP · « **Reply #1097 on:** March 20, 2017, 11:59:57 AM »

It's just the adjuster deal that is rusted so badly...but some bolt heads (like the 2 on the forks) and other...the brake line fittings...all are getting rust. I am very close to the ocean. I will search for stainless replacements....or paint, tighten, touch-up....I can't afford plating

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #1098 on:** March 20, 2017, 07:28:02 PM »

Run them through a brass wheel on your buffer.

calj737 · « **Reply #1099 on:** March 21, 2017, 04:42:55 AM »

Quote from: Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er on March 20, 2017, 07:28:02 PM

Run them through a brass wheel on your buffer.

That takes off the rust, but doesn't restore the plating nor does it provide corrosion protection. Stainless replacements is the solution. Use a bit of antisieze installing stainless into aluminum and other metals.

News:

Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!? (Read 250198 times)