Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - not good

[RAFster122s]

Would Boeshield or similar protective coating sprayed on them provide protection that will stay?  Cleaning the metal several times after removing the rust.  Don't know if electrolysis rust removal would be safe to dip the cable end in and use electrolysis. The cable is coated and the end will not absorb any electrolysis if there is no rust there.  You would have to clean and lube the cable then.
After electrolysis you then use the Boeshield.  I think Rustoleum makes a clear coating that is not a paint to protect against rust as well. 
SohRon used it on his immaculate better than stock rebuild of his CB550.

[SKTP]

Thanks. Going to do some research on this....I just painted some stuff flat black today...see how that works out for now

https://boeshield.com/products/

[SKTP]

The front wheel is on again!

[RAFster122s]

Could you  afford to setup you home zinc electroplating ?  There is a common household version you can do at home... it is not expensive and fairly easy to do.  After cleaning and polishing you can zinc plate in about 15 minutes and then polish to return luster and seal the deal...
I am going to look into it.

David

[MauiK3]

I set one up using zinc flashing from Amazon, a DC power supply I had (D cell batteries work too if the parts are not too big), vinegar, Epsom salt and some copper wire, I also bought some zinc chromate from Caswell Plating. I plated the rear brake arm and rod which meant I needed a long bath. The large plastic tray I used needed a lot of fluid. This turned out to need quite a bit of current but it worked, I will be doing other parts of my K3 as I take it apart. The zinc chromate step was a learning curve. If the part is not absolutely clean after buffing the chromate does not work. A good place to start is Arnold's Design on Youtube. He has a great tutorial and it's pretty cheap. The smaller the vessel you plate in the easier it is, I needed a larger one due to the length of the brake parts. As I move forward, I will set up a small vessel for small parts.
Note: muriatic acid (pool acid) removes old plating. Old rust can be removed with vinegar or electrolysis. I have been using vinegar, it's pretty easy and nontoxic.

[Syscrush]

I plated the rear brake arm and rod which meant I needed a long bath.

Can we see the finished result?

[MauiK3]

I will get a photo, it's back on the bike now.

[SKTP]

Here's the link that was mentioned...will investigate. Thanks

[MauiK3]

This is a photo of the brake arm and rod I zinc plated. I had a little trouble with the size and I'm thinking of making a plating tank out of a pipe cut lengthwise to make it easier to get everything in with minimum electrolyte. It looks ok now but I think I can do better. It will all be coming apart when I do the engine.
Steve

[JoeCooley]

Good looking bike. I really like the factory color.

[SKTP]

Wow. Looks great. The current plan is; get it back together, running and not leaking,then fancy her up...detail-wise...I have cleaned, rebuilt and/or polished almost everything at this point....the little rusty bits really stand out now

FUN EDIT...here's a picture from 10 years ago. Same bike. Originally purchased for $400. First motorcycle ever. Driven as a daily (no car at all) for three years, until the transmission failed, most likely due to driver error (I engine braked into first all the time).

[SKTP]

More painting....I ordered what I hope are the last few bits I need to put it back together

Pretty happy with the jugs and my masking...took forever to mask...top re-surfaced by APE

[SKTP]

Oh...anybody have experience with 1211 gasket sealer?

http://cycleplicity.com/products/262086-three_bond_1211at100_threebond_silicone_liquid_gasket_3_5oz.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=262086NOFITMENT&utm_campaign=GSNOFITMENT&adtype=pla&kw=&utm_term=&adpos=1o3&network=g&gclid=CNbe6oSdz9MCFcVffgodG6wAGg

It has been recommended to me a couple times now to use on my NOS OEM head gasket....I was going to use Honda-Bonda like in HONDAMAN's book...but this is apparently easier to spread and works well...thoughts?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Why use gasket sealer on a head gasket?!

[SKTP]

Because I do not ever want to take this engine out of the frame ever again for a leaking head gasket.

This try I have had both the cylinder surface and the bottom of the head resurfaced by APE.

Acquired an NOS OEM HONDA head gasket

Will be using all dowel pins and O-rings

Will be following Hondaman's book, which DOES call for sealant on the head gasket

Wondering is 1211 is better than Hondabond for this application. According to a track-bike racing enthusiast I recently met...1211 is amazing stuff

I also have this thread printed out to follow http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=107040.0


EDIT: HACK-A-WEEK video for the topend

[Restoration Fan]

I've never used 1211 but I did use Hondabond on my 78 when we put it back together (just a tiny bit around edges...applied with a cotton swab).  Knock on wood but so far it isn't leaking anywhere and I've put about 1500 miles on it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I haven't heard of 1211 but Hondabond sparingly as shown in Dino's video (I believe Dino used Hondabond).

[SKTP]

I put the Hack-A-week video in the tread a couple posts up...just watched it...he did not appear to seal the cam-tower-pucks....and he did not use any gasket sealer on the head-gasket...he DID put a lot of sealer on the base gasket...I have never used sealer on the base-gasket and have never had a base-gasket leak. Interesting.

[SKTP]

So I cleaned everything like crazy. Had the cylinders and head resurfaced and used OEM/NOS Honda Head and base-gaskets and followed Hondaman's book exactly (I did not use sealer on the base-gasket oil returns where his finger was pointing because I knew I would be slow). Torqued down all the nuts in the order in 3-stages. Will re-torque tonight. Getting closer slowly...

[SKTP]

The motor is in the frame...now the stress begins.....pray for no leaks!!!!!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I think that's the first time I've seen someone use aluminum foil to cover the ports.

Well done, Chris.  Keeping my fingers crossed for you!

[SKTP]

I think that's the first time I've seen someone use aluminum foil to cover the ports.

Thanks! Aluminum foil is the best...works great for masking large areas when painting too...fast and easy to work with....

[BLAC]

I think that's the first time I've seen someone use aluminum foil to cover the ports.

Thanks! Aluminum foil is the best...works great for masking large areas when painting too...fast and easy to work with....

I have heard the same for painters tape and paper towels 

Looks awesome, wishing you a leak-free start up!

[SKTP]

And it runs! Started right up at the push of a button. It is not firing on #3 and I have an exhaust leak (because that triple-A pipe is so hard to put on!) But those seem like mellow issues...Spent the entire weekend getting it ready so after a boggy ride around the block, I decided to re-install the pipes and check out plug #3 another day. So far, no leaks! Went with the original tank and Giuliari seat for now.

Still more to do:
- new master
- finally address front suspension (Race tech?) http://www.racetech.com/
- Finally count the revolutions of the speedo drive to have the Black bomber speedo/tach rebuilt and calibrated
- redo license plate lighting
- maybe get some stuff powdercoated (front signal brakets, engine mounting brakets
- maybe get some stuff re-plated or replaced (front wheel mounting bolts, passenger peg rusty bits, etc...)

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

No leaks!!  That's got to be a relief.  Well done.