Topic: Will I have to synch the carbs if I remove them from the throttle plate?

[Lenny55]

Just like the title says.  I want to seperate the carbs for a good cleaning, my seal kits came in today.  Also new carb boots and oil pressure switch.  

The carbs were synched last year at a local shop and it seems to be running pretty well.  I'm just having the usual bugs like sticky floats and a few leaks here and there.  Some popping from the carbs when I let go of the throttle as well.

Anyway, I don't have a set of vacuum guages, so I'd really rather not get into synching them if I don't have to.  Or should I not even do this stuff if I'm not prepared to sych them?

Thanks for your time, Lenny.

[Spanner 1]

Yes.  You can do a good bench sync. with the 'flashlight' method.... do a carb sync. search......

[Lenny55]

Oh yeah, I've read a lot of the threads on the subject for sure.  I don't have the carbtune yet, so I really don't want to open that can of worms just yet.

Here's a pic of the parts and supplies I picked up today. 

maybe I'll just stick to parts i can access from the bowls.

[Spanner 1]

Be sure to bench sync. 'em while their off.... you'll be glad you did and it's easy to do......

[Lenny55]

Will do for sure.  I plan on getting a Morgan, maybe this payday.  I love learning this stuff, but that little pile of parts you see there was about 250.00 bucks.  No money left for the carbtune this week.

On a side note, I cleaned my pods with the K&N cleaner and they look great!  They definitely look like a guaze filter and not foam.  Have to let them dry overnight before I oil them.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Bench sync by flashlight is pretty easy and pretty close.  The one veritable it doesn't take into account is the differences between the geometry of the engine's intake throat and the subtle differences in intake valves.  I see you have new boots there, so those should be nice and consistent.

Slightly off the subject, why do you want to take the carbs off the plate?  Is there something between the carbs you need to replace?  It's a lot of work and headaches if it's just to give them an external cleaning.

[Lenny55]

Mainly because I want to check out the tees.  Are they prone to fouling like jets are?

Another side note, what do you think about running inline fuel filters?  I know there are topics on this, I just thought I'd ask since you're here.

Thanks

[SOHC Digger]

I've never had a problem with the inline filters.  You can get a cheap synch gauge set off ebay that will work decently for you.  A little piece of mind if you want.  It's all about how perfect you want things to be.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

The fuel galleries between the carbs aren't prone to plugging.   Jets are tiny tiny small.  The fuel passages between the carbs are like fire hoses in comparison.  The O-rings that keep them sealed, however, can harden, crack and leak.  If you don't see any leaking there, I wouldn't worry about them.

As for the in-line filter, if your in-tank filter is good, then there is no need for the in-line.  Not much likelihood that the petcock and the short piece of hose between the in-tank and the carbs are going to produce anything big 'nuf to clog a jet.

[Lenny55]

I had quite a few little rusties in the bottom of the bowls the other day when I had them off.  Cleaned it all out and it ran great for a bit, but then seemed starved for fuel after a bit of hard running.

I've had the bottom of the petcock off and there was a bit of crap in there.  I'll have a better look at it tomorrow.

Thanks for all the replies fellas, much appreciated.

Lenny

[wsup55]

If that's the case.  You will also want to address your tank for the rust issue.  If you don't, it can undo all that effort you put into cleaning up your carbs.

[dave500]

a good bench sync will get the bike running in the ball park,,depending on who does it,,yes ,you will need the carbs synced again,,its only a half job if you dont,bench is by eye and gap,about,near enough,almost good,proper vacuum syncing measures the vacuum between cylinders.,and is the only way to get it spot on,vibrations,wasted power and fuel are the result of out of sync carbies.,get your own sync set ,if you plan to remove carbs a bit,you can tinker and change carbies without visiting a shop.,you can also help your buddies out if you have one,have fun and earn beer in your spare time!,if the carb rack is removed from the head it still should be re synced.,its a vacuum measure.

[Lenny55]

Ordered my Morgan Carbtune yesterday! 

Spent yesterday afternoon and this morning going over the carbs.  Cleaned all the ugly yellow, peeling clear coat from the bowls and spent some time polishing them.  They look amazing now.  I çould have polished them more, but I'll leave that for the winter.

Changed out all the o-rings in the bowls and jets, and made sure everything was spotless. Also installed a couple of inline fuel filters.  The tank seems pretty clean, and the petcock is as well, but I had a little bit of crap from somewhere so I figured the filters couldn't hurt.

Speaking of filters, the old K&N pods cleaned right up with the cleaning/oil kit.  Who knows  when they were cleaned last.

I was hoping the new carb boots would solve the popping on deceleration, but It's still there.  I guess the morgan will help me sort that out a little better.  Since I was in polish mode, I cleaned up the clamps as well.

New oil pressure switch for good measure.  Works like a charm.  The old one would work sporadicaly which wasn't very reassuring.  It was corroded to sh#t.

All in all a pretty satisfying bit of maintenance on the old girl.  I like replacing critical parts bit by bit.  It gives you a nice benchmark to work from for future stuff.

Lenny.

[Lenny55]

Oh, and it ran like a champ on the test ride!!!

[jaknight]

Congrats Lenny,

..... on getting the parts and equipment you will need.

As far as the "popping"......

I believe there are primarily 8 reasons for this happening.  I will list them in the order of
most usually found probability of cause:

1. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs.

2. Spark plug caps faulty.

3. Ignition cable insulation deteriorated (shorting out).

4. Ignition timing incorrect (Perhaps faulty component in timing system).

5. Improper valve timing.

6. Contaminated fuel.

7. Burned or damaged intake and/or exhaust valves.

8. Weak or broken intake and/or exhaust valve springs.

To solve the popping, I would certainly check these different possibilities.

Good luck,

   ~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

[dave500]

lean idle circuit.

[Scott S]

 Where'd you get the carb boots?

[Lenny55]

Jacknight, thanks for the list, I'll definitely look into those things.

Dave, not totally sure what the idle circuit is all about, but I'll look into that as well.
 
Scott, those boots are Honda OEM.  Got them from the dealer, I think they were around $17.00 bucks a piece.

[dave500]

vacuum leak or lean idle can cause a popping on decelleration