Topic: hammered paint for frame?

[gmonkey]

Any opinions on using hammered paint for the frame and swingarm?  How is the toughness and gas resistance?  The look I'm not too worried about but is it something really hated?

My current plan is to just touch up the factory paint with rustoleum.  I'm just curious about the hammered paint.  Although I might use it on just the swingarm since the paint on there is in pretty bad shape.

[the technological J]

it wont match but i did a whole frame in the gold and it seems really good... it takes a week to get hard tho..... its pretty soft for the first three days

[sangyo soichiro]

I say don't use it.

My girlfriend wanted to try it on her C90 frame, and it just didn't seem to hold up as well as regular paint.  It chips off too easily.  Maybe I did something wrong when I painted with it, but I wouldn't use it again.

[JBMorse]

I'm not sure how similar the chemical makeup of hammered paint is to normal Rustoleum but, I have painted lots of stuff on the bike with Rustoleum and it's held up great.  I painted my tank with Ace Rust Stop, which is their "Rustoluem" and it's holding up well too.  I was really worried about resistance to gas and oil, but I think those concerns are somewhat overstated.  Sure, it's not two stage auto epoxy paint, but it seems to hold up.

Here's a shot with the green Rust Stop.


And shot from this weekend.  The gauge bodies, light panel, and triple tree are all done in Rustoleum.  These parts were painted two weeks ago.


I think hammered paint would look nice on a frame and I'm pretty sure it's tough enough to do it.

[the technological J]

i painted my tank with rusto and brake fluid stripped thru it as soon as it touched it tho

[gmonkey]

Brake fluid will eat through just about any paint as far as I know.  Not much you can do about it but switch to DOT5.

JB:  Bike looks good.  How long has the paint been on there?  I only ever hear of people painting things with rustoleum and saying that it's held up well after a year.  I was hoping for results after like 3-5.

[JBMorse]

I've had my green paint for just over a year.  The black painted parts are new, but I have other Rustoleum painted parts from last year on the bike and they still look great.  My feelings at the time were that if I can get it looking this good for like $7, then I can't complain too much if I have to re-spray it in a couple of years.  I plan on keeping tabs on how long this stuff does last though.

[the technological J]

Not much you can do about it but switch to DOT5.

does it work the same?

[gmonkey]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5

From what little I know it picks up air and makes for slightly less firm brakes but it doesn't harm paint.

[cb350twin]

Dot 5.1 is better. As its compatible with dot 3 and dot 4 and you don't have replace basically you whole brake system.

[bradweingartner]

Dot 5.1 is better. As its compatible with dot 3 and dot 4 and you don't have replace basically you whole brake system.

And it still eats paint so what's the point?

[sangyo soichiro]

If you guys are concerned about gas and other fluids eating through the paint, after the paint job cures (about 6 months?) slap some Turtle Wax on there. 

I can't say I ever had brake fluid problems, but I did have gas drips fogging up my clear coat.  The Turtle Wax cured that problem.  But just remember, you can't wax until the paint is fully cured, and I think that takes about 6 months.

[Hannibal Smith]

You know.................spray outfits both HVLP and conventional are dirt cheap these days, and offering from Husky (Home Depot etc.) work fantastic.

With all the work that goes into your bike, getting "real" paint is really easy, and it will last. No matter what you do, rattlecan stuff sucks.

Just my opinion, but rattlecan paints fade/chip/peel/etc. sooner than later. Been there, done that, and never again.

Granted, rattlecan is easier, but it is not really legit for bikes, patio furniture and a birdhouse (plans from Popular Mechanics June 1976) maybe, but the difference is night and day. All that work, and then to rattlecan at the end, a waste IMO.

It's like the Hillbilly that is proud as can be that he welds with a coathanger, but welding rod that is correct is dirt cheap and everywhere, it is the hallmark of a hack, not a craftsman.

Anyway, do what you want, but I have been painting since the mid 1980's and I PROMISE you will be sorry down the line.

Below is real engine paint (with catalyst)- I can spill gas on it, and not sweat a thing. It will be perfect 10 years from now. Costs $45.00.

[gmonkey]

You know.................spray outfits both HVLP and conventional are dirt cheap these days, and offering from Husky (Home Depot etc.) work fantastic.

With all the work that goes into your bike, getting "real" paint is really easy, and it will last. No matter what you do, rattlecan stuff sucks.

Just my opinion, but rattlecan paints fade/chip/peel/etc. sooner than later. Been there, done that, and never again.

Granted, rattlecan is easier, but it is not really legit for bikes, patio furniture and a birdhouse (plans from Popular Mechanics June 1976) maybe, but the difference is night and day. All that work, and then to rattlecan at the end, a waste IMO.

<cut>

No argument whatsoever.

The concern for me is having to invest in the equipment that I would essentially use once.  If I could get a hold of the paint and brush it on, I'd be fine with that.  I'm also not too crazy about messing with spray equipment.  I've got airbrushing stuff and never got much enjoyment out of it and that was with acrylics that clean up with simple green.

Note that I'm not planning on spray-bombing the frame.  I'm going to stick with the original paint since I'd be lucky to do any better myself.  Just going to touch it up.  Aside from possibly the swingarm which could be repainted relatively easily down the line.