Thanks for the reply gentlemen.
I do not have any charging problems. I was just testing the electrics (voltage drops, resistances, etc.). I have been cleaning all the connectors and switches and in the process, getting to understand the electrical part of the bike. I thought it would be best to test the components while they are good and note all the readings in my book so I could compare them to eventual readings when a problem occurs. I'm not quite there yet as I am still in the learning curve.
I understand now that the multimeter I am using is not as precise as one would want to do this test. However, although the actual Ohm numbers can not be considered accurate, the readings are different between a cold stator and a hot one. Would my $25 multimeter be accurate enough to at least measure a difference? or am I on a wrong path here and should just forget about it. Maybe this is completely normal too, I don't know. BTW, there is continuity between the yellow wires and no continuity between the yellow wires and ground when cold. I read that this is good. I have not checked when warm.
If my battery gets full charge, would this mean that the whole alternator (stator and field coil), and all the ignition components are OK and that my 1/8 throttle problem can only be carburetor related? Or have you ever experienced bad ignition only when the engine is warm?
I have connected the ignition coils directly to the battery with the solenoid trick because even though everything was disassembled and cleaned, the kill switch robed me almost 3 Volts. I did not cut anything on the original wiring harness and plan to replace the kill switch soon as a permanent solution.
This modification did give me an easier start and better idling right away and my plugs (D8ea) are now dark coffee instead of the dry black sooty I used to have. I know it's still running rich, even though the carbs are all to specs, clean and synchronized. Valves are right on, timing is dead on the F at idle and in between the 2 lines at higher revs, new NGK 5 Ohm plug caps, new AMG battery, stable at 13 Volts, Regulator from Oregon Motorcycle charging in the high 14 Volts at 3000 RPMs.
Still, the motor stumbles in the first 1/8 throttle, only when warmed-up.
I was kind of wondering if by any chance my problem could still be electric, hence my question. All the tests so far were done at start up, un-choked but not completely warmed-up.
I am still learning here and I try my best to be methodical but before all this crystallizes in my head, I will poke around and probably be wrong in the troubleshooting department.
Thanks to the moderators for this forum.
Feel free to comment.
Simon
