Author Topic: 1975 CB550K1 550 Four (Read 16928 times)

CJK · « **Reply #50 on:** January 25, 2014, 03:50:40 PM »

First off, I sure am bad at staying updated with this. I will now keep it more updated as I found out I can use Tapatalk and it's much more convenient.

Anyways...

I have completely through the wiring harness and checked all connections/re-flowed solder. Lengthened the entire harness so that the wires will now reach the back of the bike as I will hide all the components under seat hump. Re-wired the handlebar controls, cut a notch into the material and ran the wires on outside of the bars into headlight.

(Side note: trying to run wires through inside of Clubmans was a terrible idea. I got the right side controls done...left side got stuck halfway through. After unsuccessfully trying for about 3 hrs, I left them where they were for close to 2 weeks, afraid to touch them because I was getting too frustrated. Finally, I said "screw it," and Cut all the wires, which is why I decided to simply re-wire the controls.)

CJK · « **Reply #51 on:** January 25, 2014, 03:51:59 PM »

Calj737 - should have thanked you a while ago for sending me the exhaust collars, but I got caught up in things. So Thank you very much, I really do appreciate it. When I finish this fun with all the wiring, I will throw them on there.

CJK · « **Reply #52 on:** January 25, 2014, 03:56:55 PM »

Quick question: I want to make a tray that will keep things out of the area under the seat. Any suggestions??

My idea was to cut that back rounded flat bar that a friend welded on, use some sheet steel and simply cut out the shape and mount to those back 2 lateral supports with holes in them.

***Also, frame is not PC so I'm not worried because I anticipated doing things wrong first time and needing to weld things on

CJK · « **Reply #53 on:** January 25, 2014, 10:13:36 PM »

I'm using a Roccity seat, there is tons of space underneath so it's not even difficult to fit it all under there. I think I will probably also make a mounting board for all the components.
I don't like that back piece of bent flat bar though so I'm thinking it should go. There's still a good 3" between the flat bar and the rear edge of the cowl and having that bar partitions the space in a bad way ("friend" screwed up, shouldn't have ever bothered with him)

I'll snap some better pictures in the morning.

CJK · « **Reply #54 on:** January 26, 2014, 07:49:49 AM »

Wow that M-Unit is amazingly cool. Does it have a built-in Reg/Rect?

CJK · « **Reply #55 on:** January 26, 2014, 11:13:55 AM »

Wow, that is quite simply amazing. Wish I would have been more active on the forum when I was doing all this stuff. I would have just bought one and called it done on the electrical.

Since I'm going through all this trouble anyway, I'm going to replace the R/R with a new one.

Bought a generic 35 amp 3-phase bridge rectifier for $10 and VR124 Regulator for $27 from Amazon.

CJK · « **Reply #56 on:** January 26, 2014, 11:16:44 AM »

That's the size of the cowl...tons of space for all the electrical components

CJK · « **Reply #57 on:** January 26, 2014, 11:36:39 AM »

I hooked up the new LED rear taillight to a 12v battery pack (measured at 11.5v @ time) just to see how bright the LEDs will be. The first 3 are taken in the garage, medium light levels. The last 2 are outdoors on a sunny day. In the direct sunlight, they are slightly washed out.

Outdoors -

My goal for today is to separate the 35 Amber LEDs on R and L sides to be turn signals.
I already have a resistor in line so that Red will be Running light dimmed and full power brake light.

RobbyD · « **Reply #58 on:** January 26, 2014, 02:54:46 PM »

that roadster seat fits the 550 really good actually. I may consider it and chop and inch or so out of it.

CJK · « **Reply #59 on:** January 26, 2014, 03:24:56 PM »

Quote from: RobbyD on January 26, 2014, 02:54:46 PM

that roadster seat fits the 550 really good actually. I may consider it and chop and inch or so out of it.

Thanks, I think so too. I remember seeing it on CB on the Roc City page, sold me right away. Just runs really well with the gas tank lines.

CJK · « **Reply #60 on:** February 07, 2014, 06:59:41 PM »

Bought some 14 gauge SS sheet today to make fab up a rear tray for the electronics. $2/lb seemed like a dang good price. I'm gonna trace the shape and take it to a shop to have them cut it with a plasma cutter.

CJK · « **Reply #61 on:** July 13, 2015, 02:13:39 PM »

Resurrection from the dead! This project had to take a back seat for quite some time while school, life and training were more important. I'm finally back to working on it though.

Currently, I am trying to get it back running again (last running several years ago). I was able to get Cylinders 1,2, and 4 firing this morning, but the engine would not idle for more than a few seconds. As long as fuel, air and a spark are present, the engine should begin running.

Fuel:
I pulled the plugs and all cylinders were receiving some fuel. I've got carbs #1, 2, and 3 peeing onto the ground so I'll be removing the carbs again tomorrow morning. I will check the float level and the pilot jets again.

Air:
Choke all the way on and air screws on the carbs turned to 1.5 turns out.

Spark:
Just installed new NGK 5k ohm spark plug caps and NGK D7EA plugs. I set the points gap and timing statically, but am skeptical of it. I'll be revisiting this as a cause of the issue if the carburetors are not the cause.

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to this engine to finally work.

CJK · « **Reply #62 on:** July 13, 2015, 08:35:38 PM »

Calj737 - I will do that tonight and see if that fixes the problem of them overflowing. I've been reading through a few threads and am thinking the angle of the flat piece from the float that pushes up on the float needle could be an issue. I'll try your suggestion though because not removing the carbs again sounds delightful

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CJK · « **Reply #63 on:** July 16, 2015, 03:08:58 PM »

I tried giving the carbs a few love taps to see if that would help seat the float needles but no luck. Carbs came back off yesterday. I may need some help adjusting the float level.

The float level needs to be adjusted to 22mm measured with the carbs on their side. Is the purpose of putting them on their sides so that the float is not fully depressing the float needle?

I'll post pictures to help clarify

CJK · « **Reply #64 on:** July 16, 2015, 04:07:40 PM »

Calj737 - Thanks for the tip! I have extra tygon tubing lying around that I can use for that.

I feel like a dumb*** but I just discovered that I have the 627B carbs (CB500 71-73) instead of 022A (CB550K 74-76). Apparently the PO swapped them out at some point in history. I've been following the CB550 manual for all adjustments. In looking at it, there aren't too many differences thankfully.

Why do something right the first time when you can do it twice?!

CJK · « **Reply #65 on:** July 16, 2015, 05:43:40 PM »

I re-checked the float level and found a few to be closer to 20mm than 22mm so I adjusted that. Pilot jets were blown out again to ensure nothing was blocking them.

I measured float bowl by laying carbs on engine side down to ensure the weight of floats did not depress the float tang.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

turboed13b · « **Reply #66 on:** July 17, 2015, 01:52:17 PM »

Your float needles are in upside down.

CJK · « **Reply #67 on:** July 17, 2015, 01:59:50 PM »

...oh snap. I thought they were supposed to go that way because that's how they looked when they came off the bike!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CJK · « **Reply #68 on:** August 12, 2015, 10:38:15 AM »

I flipped the float needles so that they are in the carbs correctly and actually work

I adjusted the float height and nowwww I understand why everyone says to adjust them with the carbs sideways because you don't want the spring depressed.

After adjusting the float height, I installed the carbs as well as air filter. Then checked the points gap and set static timing.

...and voila! I kicked it over a few times and it actually started. I was really shocked it works.

It appears cylinder 1,2, and 4 are firing. The header pipe for #3 didn't feel warm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CJK · « **Reply #69 on:** August 20, 2015, 06:14:37 PM »

The idle still isn't quite right. Cylinder 3 is firing. So I decided to take the plugs out and see what's going on.

All the air screws are at 1.5 turns out. It seems like #3 isn't getting any fuel so carbs are coming off to clean out the pilot jet again.

Can someone offer some suggestions to help out?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CJK · « **Reply #70 on:** August 20, 2015, 07:30:33 PM »

Roger that, calj737. I will try to get that done now. I'll lodge the tubing into the drain screw hole

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CJK · « **Reply #71 on:** August 20, 2015, 08:00:58 PM »

There is clear tube method for carbs #3 and #4. The bike was not running at the time. I think I'll need an assistant to be able to hold the tube in, start the bike and take a picture next time.

...although next time, I probably won't spill nearly as much gas so it won't be as messy.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

streak09 · « **Reply #72 on:** August 21, 2015, 03:25:29 AM »

No need to have the bike running. Just make sure it is standing up straight, not on the side stand.

CJK · « **Reply #73 on:** September 27, 2015, 03:17:41 PM »

Been working on it on and off. I verified with the clear tube method that the floats are set correctly and that fuel is in the bowl. After that, I removed carbs and cleaned passageways one more time as well as swapped slow jets between Cylinder 3&4.

While idling, the bike is still having trouble running on all four cylinders. After running it yesterday, I checked the pipes and all 4 were very hot (I checked by licking them).

I picked up a HF Compression Test kit to do a quick compression test. This kit has a 1/2" x 20" hose length, so I know my readings are lowered do to that. I did 3 5-6 revolution readings on each cylinder with open choke and WOT. All cylinders were showed about ~53-58 PSI, which puts them in the +- 10% range.

News:

Author Topic: 1975 CB550K1 550 Four (Read 16928 times)