Topic: what kind of switch am I looking for?

[chadbenson]

So I've got a '76 550 with the common nonexistent starter button. I'm probably going to pull the wires and mount a separate switch somewhere else. What specific "technical name" switch am I going to need to have it function as the original did? or is that even possible.

It's a three wire system that has 1 hot black wire, and 2 leads. Power is routed to one or the other of the leads depending on switch position. So I'm just wondering if an aftermarket switch exists that retains the original function of killing the headlight to activate the starter?

Any advice? thanks!!

[mystic_1]

You need a "Single pole, double throw, momentary pushbutton switch".  You'll want a switch that's rated to flow 5 amps at least.

Read the following:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=61570.msg668554#msg668554

mystic_1

[nobody]

See if you can find one of the little buttons. With the button and a trimmed spring from an oridnary clicking pen I made mine work again.

[chadbenson]

I still have the little plastic button actually, but JUST the little plastic button. How would putting a spring inbetween the wire leads plate and the button going to make the contact for headlight on/ momentary headlight off function work exactly? In my head it sounds like the spring would be touching the starter lead and headlight lead at the same time......? enlighten me! because if there's a way around having to pull the wires and wiring up a new switch then i'm game!

Also why does it need to flow at least 5 amps? Didn't the old ones flow 3? The reason i'm asking is because radioshack has these which looks like it could work....

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062541&filterName=Type&filterValue=SPDT

[nobody]

I tried looking at fiches on service honda but couldn't find anything that gave and exploded view of the control. If it's anything like a 750 it should be like the picture below where you have a plate for the button to contact, a plate with a hole for the button's probe to go through, the spring, and the button. Cut the spring long enough so that it holds the button off of the plate to the left but short enough that it can compress far enough to contact it when you push the button. This is what I did on mine and it works just fine.



EDIT: I just reread your post, you don't have the bits inside the control? If that's the case, my solution isn't of much use, sorry.

[mystic_1]

He has the type of starter switch that kills the headlight when the starter is engaged, those are different.

mystic_1

[nobody]

Ah, ignore me then.

[mystic_1]

Great picture though!



mystic_1

[mystic_1]

Also why does it need to flow at least 5 amps? Didn't the old ones flow 3?

Not according to the post that I linked.  I'm not sure, personally, but I trust Hondaman

mystic_1

[nobody]

Great picture though!



mystic_1

Haha, don't be jealous of my ms paint skills.

[chadbenson]

awesome ms paint skillz! hahhaha I think i'm going to just pull the wires and mount a spdt momentary like you said. Just have to find a place to put it now!

[BeSeeingYou]

I had the starter switch fail on my 76F.  The switch is in a plastic housing inside the handlebar assembly.  The plastic housing just falls apart with age and the switch fails.  I see no way to repair the switch so I got the whole assembly for $95 from Babbittsonline.  I wouldn't waste my time with a used one as I think it age related.  To me that's  better and quicker than mucking around with the wiring putting in some makeshift switch somewhere else.

[TwoTired]

Also why does it need to flow at least 5 amps? Didn't the old ones flow 3?

The closer you run near the switch rating, the shorter it's life.  If you want a long lasting switch over-specify the rating.

Stock headlight is 40/50 Watt.  @12.8 V high beam draws 3.9 A.  It will draw more current with a higher voltage, eg. 13.8V will draw 4.2 A through the switch.  The headlight fuse is rated at 7 A.  Which would you prefer melted first, the fuse or the switch?

Of course, if you ever want to "upgrade" the headlight to higher wattage (not recommended on a 550), the extra power will route though the switch.

[chadbenson]

I actually did buy a "brighter" bulb for it recently. It's just a slyvania step up from there stock bulb. Was that a bad idea? I'm really itching to get the bike going soon so i may just wire the black hot straight to the headlight lead. And wait to rework a switch later on. I know that once i'm ready to do it i've got all the info i need. Gotta love a healthy forum 

[TwoTired]

Stock bike draws about 120 watts whenever the key switch and headlamp is on.  The Alternator makes 150 watts @ 5000RPM and about 40-50 watts at idle.  Idle drains the battery.
If you up the power draw for the electrical system (brighter headlight), the more it drains the battery and the longer you have to run at 5000RPM to restore it.  If you don't run the engine fast enough the recharge the battery, it the battery continues to deplete until there isn't enough power to fire the coils/spark plugs.  Then you push the bike in the dark and become a convenient target for cagers.

[Don R]

Keep the new switch near the right control. I put a temporary one on the left side and it was totally inconvienient. Honda got this one right.

[chadbenson]

So my dad found this switch at work : http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=821-0031#tab=Specs

It's rated at 15 amps, is a spdt. But it's rated at 250 vac... would it still work? I'm assuming yes...considering all I need it to handle is 12v right?

[Don R]

looks right, we used them on our trans brake on the drag car. Last forever.

[TwoTired]

The voltage rating has to do with electrical route separation, ie how far apart are the electrical paths.  UL (among other safety organizations) specify this separation.  It has to do with lightning striking the line and its ability to arc over and damage safety devices elsewhere in the circuit.  Clearly 250V AC operation is different than 12v DC operation on a motor vehicle.  So, the important spec to pay attention to in this application is the contact rating, which is 15A.  And, this should be sufficient for both lighting and the starter solenoid.

 

[mystic_1]

mystic_1

[chadbenson]

Thanks TT, I actually pre-wired up the switch i posted and let it hang from the bars to test. Works great but, the momentary is WAYYYY to sensitive. So I'm going to have to get a toggle i'm thinking. But now I know that really all I'm looking for is something 5 amps or greater.

[Bodi]

That's a pretty large switch and not the type I would choose.
Try a miniature type switch, these http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6763020 are 5A and should work. Not weatherproof but finding a weatherproof switch is up to you if you want one (they do exist in this style). You can also get pushbutton models with this switch size but they seem to be derated to 1A, maybe another supplier (I just checked Allied quickly which tends to have the worst search function known to mankind).

[chadbenson]

I found this one also, http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/1374 From the looks of it I almost want to say that it could be retrofitted into the old right hand control with a little bit of modification.

Anyone else tried this?