Topic: later style 750 clutch upgrade quuestion

[69modelj]

Just did this. All components from a k7 I installed into my k5. These parts are of course used. Having issues with a balky transmission, sometimes shifts smooth, sometimes "notchy" with hard to find neutral. I have access to all new steel plates (oem honda), but did not want to install them with used fiber plates. The existing fibers look to be in good condition. The clutch does not slip and engages smoothly. Anyone know if just replacing the steel plates might help
shift quality, or are the fiber plates equally important for better shifts? Adjustment has been done correctly and rechecked twice.
Any opinions from the vetrans out there? TIA.

[eurban]

Just checking . . .When you say all components I assume you replaced the basket, center etc?

[69modelj]

Just checking . . .When you say all components I assume you replaced the basket, center etc?

Yup, all of it including the cover.

[madmtnmotors]

Be very careful using early model clutch covers covers on later models. I used an early model clutch cover on my 78' CB750K (because the earlier model cover was chromed) and there is one distinct difference (other than the earliest models that actually have an extra bolt). The difference I found was the internal casting bosses where the external tin cover bolts to the outside of the aluminum clutch cover. One of the bosses is cast deeper than the other two and actually bottomed out on the clutch hub on my 78'. When the cover was bolted down the clutch hub was "pinned" in place and would not budge. A little work with the dremel to remove the extended casting from the back of the cover where it extended further than the rest (about a 1/4") till all were equal depth solved the problem, but it was one I did not expect and took some head-scratchin to figure out. The gouges on the clutch hub that were created by jumping on the kickstarter to try and budge it were the clues that lead me to the culprit.

[69modelj]

Be very careful using early model clutch covers covers on later models. I used an early model clutch cover on my 78' CB750K (because the earlier model cover was chromed) and there is one distinct difference (other than the earliest models that actually have an extra bolt). The difference I found was the internal casting bosses where the external tin cover bolts to the outside of the aluminum clutch cover. One of the bosses is cast deeper than the other two and actually bottomed out on the clutch hub on my 78'. When the cover was bolted down the clutch hub was "pinned" in place and would not budge. A little work with the dremel to remove the extended casting from the back of the cover where it extended further than the rest (about a 1/4") till all were equal depth solved the problem, but it was one I did not expect and took some head-scratchin to figure out. The gouges on the clutch hub that were created by jumping on the kickstarter to try and budge it were the clues that lead me to the culprit.

You are exactly correct sir. I just went thru your exact scenario as well. Glad to know that the older cover can be modified in the manner you mention. Now I can reuse my chromed outer cover. Any other suggestions pertaining to this thread to keep it alive is appreciated, as I have yet to solve my original problem...Anyone???

[madmtnmotors]

When I learned of the differences in the aluminum clutch covers I was in the process of installing new friction (fiber) plates since I was starting to get some slippage on top end. Not a great deal of slippage, just enough to notice during roll-on acceleration on the highway if I hadn't downshifted (when geared a little "tall" for the speed). I used the original steel plates with new friction plates from Parts-n-More that set me back about $35.00 (two years ago). Probably had somewhere between 40,000 and 50,000 miles on it prior to refreshing the friction plates. The tranmissions on these old 750's are notorious for hard to find neutral, "false" neutral between the upper gears when the dogs don't engage completely, "clunk" into first gear from neutral, among other maladies. I'm closing in on 60,000 miles and mine has been doing these things since I bought it with 23,000 miles and it does not appear to be any worse now than when I first got it 40,000 miles ago. Make sure not to overlook the hub adjustment, just adjusting the cable is not enough. I have been a little rough on mine and it refuses to quit. After my sacrifice to the gods of the burnout pit last year, the 30 year old valves seals finally tendered their resignation. New valve seals (and cam tower "coin" seals for good measure) and no more smokin (from the tailpipe at least)...

Ride on!