Topic: CB550 Cafe build - 1st bike build, but not 1st build

[Tintop]

lots to update.  the tank transformation is now complete, ready for paint.  my Swarbrick 4 into 4 pipes are fitted.  not exactly by the book but do they look great.

1st decision was the side stand.  could it be saved, and still get everything to fit.  as 1 & 4 needed to be shortened to get bend positioned forward, suggested we shorten pipe, and use offcuts to lengthen header.  worked like a charm.  small cerfs were also done to 2 & 3 to change their angle above the sump.



1 & 2 in place, along with the stand


what the road will see


back on its wheels, rear sets and hangers next.  final position will have top of pipe level to lower shock bolt.  only being held by exhaust studs here, sagged about 3/4" when we turned it over.


filler panel for my Monza cap change is done.  made a paper template, and had basic shape waterjet cut.  then filed to get final fit. will post a picture shortly.

[Zaipai]

Looks great.. Are the pipes too close to the motor? I don't know about this stuff, just curious.

.: Scott :.

[Tintop]

Looks great.. Are the pipes too close to the motor? I don't know about this stuff, just curious.

.: Scott :.

hope not Zaipai.  the way they would have mounted as 'race pipes' (side stand removed) - 1 & 4 would have been less than a pipe width farther out, right over stand mount attach / 2 & 3 would have been nearly the same as now, just slightly farther out.  the cuts we made in 2 & 3 headers were to align the ends (actually raised header end to fit pipe).  as it is now 1 & 4 will only bake the inside of the frame rail , instead of both sides being baked with the race setup.   ceramic coating will help with radiated heat control.

thinking I will use the 3rd port on Terry's adapter (arrived today ) for a temp gauge, and run a pressure gauge off the oil pump.  if the oil looks like its getting hot, adding a cooler will be easy.

[Aladinsane07]

Awesome work.  I can't wait to see where this goes.

Voted 

[sinister902]

really enjoying your personal touches on this build, keep it up!

[Syscrush]

Wow, beautiful and inspiring work - watching this one with a great deal of interest.

It's nice to see a project that's been thoroughly thought through from start to finish, and then executed with care.

What's the story on that battery tray?  Will it be covered somehow by the airbox?

[Tintop]

Wow, beautiful and inspiring work - watching this one with a great deal of interest.

It's nice to see a project that's been thoroughly thought through from start to finish, and then executed with care.

What's the story on that battery tray?  Will it be covered somehow by the airbox?

thanks for the compliment syscrush, along with sinister902, and aladinsane07.  the battery will stay exposed, don't want to hide the billet tray.   it serves a couple of purposes.  the tray and the bars it attaches to provide some additional torsional rigidity to the frame, and that was a low as I could place the weight.  on the next bike there will be no electrical components higher than the float bowls.   

as for an airbox.  to start I am using FCR stacks (60mm) attached to custom mount(s) that I designed.  there will be a Piper or ITG filter covering all the bells, like a single filter twin weber setup.  later I will make an air box to fit, but it wasn't part of the original concept.

[Raef]

It's looking good, how's the hand?

[Tintop]

It's looking good, how's the hand?

thanks raef.  hand is healing well.  that said, getting everything moving again is going to take awhile.  decided to call my therapist the Marquis de Sade's daughter. ; and her book of hand exercises is now referred to as 'the book of pain' (the OT's call it the torture book! ).

[Syscrush]

the battery will stay exposed, don't want to hide the billet tray.

The tray certainly is nice, I just hope you can find a battery that's pretty enough to go with it!

later I will make an air box to fit, but it wasn't part of the original concept.

My mistake - I thought I read in here somewhere that you were going to fabricate an airbox...

[Tintop]

the battery will stay exposed, don't want to hide the billet tray.

The tray certainly is nice, I just hope you can find a battery that's pretty enough to go with it!

later I will make an air box to fit, but it wasn't part of the original concept.

My mistake - I thought I read in here somewhere that you were going to fabricate an airbox...

the battery is an Odysey pc310 dry cell (was in the bike when we flipped it, the red box).  your right, I am planning to fabricate an airbox, but later.  as I mentioned, it wasn't part of the original vision, so I didn't exactly leave gobs of room for one.   the velocity stacks will remain, just be incorporated into the new box.  its also possible that the current filter setup idea, will achieve what an airbox would, making it redundant.  besides, I want to hear those pipes sooner rather than later.   stopping assembly now to build a box will delay that.

[Tintop]

quick update to the build.  the Swarbrick exhaust has been mounted, and is ready for coating.  if you haven't voted, poll closes Tuesday when the pipes get dropped off.

couple of quick pictures of the 750F tank's new Monza cap.  pieces haven't been epoxied in yet, this will happen once 'body work' is done.  the refinishing starts next week, long with the seat and fairing.



next up is to fabricate my electrical tray, and brackets for various electrical parts; then start the wiring harness.  left to do are install front sprocket and chain (should be here next week) / install carbs, and then fit the stacks / fit the fork brace (about a week+ away) / make hoses, and add the remote oil filter system / front brakes will get final alignment when brace is fitted, along with front fender.

[Tintop]

quick update to the 550 build.

1st is that I have decided to change the shocks to get a better stance.  the current Boge are 12.6" / 320+mm, and I can go to 13.2 / 335mm before I run into clearance issues.  after checking out various manufacturers (Ikon / Hagon / Progressive / Works Performance / YSS) have ordered a set of shocks from Klaus @ YSS.  model #RZ362-330-TRL.  these are the latest version of the previous RZ302, 330mm (13") in length.  shocks feature: rider weight matched springs, rebound adjust, threaded pre-load , and up to +10mm length adjustment .  they have a 2 yr warranty, and are fully rebuildable.

http://www.yssusa.com/series-z.html

2nd is, it seems that no build is complete until it has a name, I have been mulling that over since I started.  over that time a number of possibilities have been posted above the computer.  that quest has ended, and I have decided on - Speed Warrior (pronounced: kasoku suru sen shi in Japanese).  as the graphics will have a Japanese theme, I will be incorporating Kanjii into the design.

its also your last chance to vote in my 'pipe colour poll', as they go out tomorrow.

[Tintop]

so my Swarbrick pipe colour poll has closed.

the winner is - low gloss black

as black was my 1st choice, this part is easy.  however I have decided to go with a 'satin' black (not a gloss / not a matte).  High Tech Coatings will be doing the work. http://www.hightechcoatings.com/  including shipping both ways expect total to be $325.

[Zaipai]

Thanks for the info on the pipes, good stuff to know as I am looking for replacement pipes for mine for this winter. That instrument cluster turned out wonderful! Can't wait to see this finished!..

.: Scott :.

[Tintop]

Thanks for the info on the pipes, good stuff to know as I am looking for replacement pipes for mine for this winter. That instrument cluster turned out wonderful! Can't wait to see this finished!..

.: Scott :.

thanks for the compliment Scott.

I have been checking around since the pipes arrived (only 3 serious sources here).  Used the forum (great source), then went to a couple of local Wednesday night 'drive ins', and chatted with guys who had coated headers.   If the job was great, or the header is peeling, you hear about it.

I'm was thinking about adding an oil presssure gauge into the area above the tach and speedo.  my local guy says he can get me a 1 1/2" oil fill one for a good price.  however, if I mount my ignition switch down by the coils, like a 350/500 (have my 350 bracket), I could put the gauge below the tach and speedo.  this would also simplify the wiring (less stuff to go into the bucket )  going to take a look tomorrow.

[Zaipai]

I am really hoping once you have the exhaust complete and its running you can provide some audio/video.. Do those come with baffles and if so are you going to use them? If you paint them, let me know how it comes out and if the paint is good or not.

Thanks,
.: Scott :.

[Tintop]

I am really hoping once you have the exhaust complete and its running you can provide some audio/video.. Do those come with baffles and if so are you going to use them? If you paint them, let me know how it comes out and if the paint is good or not.

Thanks,
.: Scott :.

a video clip with sound is definitely in the cards Scott.  just as soon as the pipes are on, the tank is back, and the carbs are balanced.

no baffles, their straight through race pipes.  That said, my experience suggests that there shouldn't be any 'issues' until its started.   Seriously, I don't expect a 'noise problem' until after 3/4 throttle.  then maybe I'll be mistaken for the Aston Martin that trolls around here:); or just go ride with a bunch of Harleys.

[FunJimmy]

Great build.

[Zaipai]

no baffles, their straight through race pipes.  That said, my experience suggests that there shouldn't be any 'issues' until its started.   Seriously, I don't expect a 'noise problem' until after 3/4 throttle.  then maybe I'll be mistaken for the Aston Martin that trolls around here:); or just go ride with a bunch of Harleys.

Ohhh can't wait to hear it!!!

.: Scott :.

[Tintop]

while I'm waiting for the final bunch of parts, decided to get started on the wiring.  1st thing was to reinstall everything removed to flip it, and do the pipes.

because of the serious clearance issues with the original master, installed the new dual master I had.  this will also simplify wiring as it has a brake switch built in.  also got to put on the bar-end mirrors.  routed the clutch and throttle cables.



have changed the head light for an XS1100 unit.  I didn't realize how rusty inside, until I posted the picture.   time for some tremclad.  this headlight uses an H4 Halogen, which is being changed out to an HID unit.  the shell shape is also better for attaching the speedo & tach cables.  turn signals will be mounted on the outside of the Thruxton fairing.


started laying out a new wiring harness.  to keep things as clean as possible, am going to mount the solenoid under the battery.


1st major issue is that the new rectifier / regulator is in the tail, and the old harness ends at the battery.   have a connector kit coming, and will get some wire to build a new section.  Hondaman's ignition will mount under the seat, along with the HID digital ballast/igniter  behind.


will be adding a small heat shield between the R/R & flasher.  the mounting bolt for the R/R nearest the tail light will also serve as a tray mount.  the bolt for the starter relay on the other side will to the same.  will put a small spacer below to tighten against.  the mounting studs for the circuit breaker panel will also secure that end of the tray.

next week - more of the same, along with making brackets to hold the ignition box, solenoid, and HID unit.

[Zaipai]

Looking very clean and neat..

I love the cluster the way you have it setup..

.: Scott :.

[Tintop]

Looking very clean and neat..
I love the cluster the way you have it setup..

.: Scott :.

thanks Scott.  however there have been some compromises that aren't the best.

to get the gauges in that tight I squeezed the ignition down and used the earlier 3 position switch.  had to give the key top a custom profile today.    not sure I can get it in and out, its so tight to the dash.   before I packed it in today, I pulled out the 350 key mount and started looking at that.  as I haven't laid out the ignition part of the harness, it can go anywhere.  I can put a grommet in the hole and run the dash wiring, and oil pressure line through there, which would actually help.  maybe I should start another poll - where can the key locate?

[Zaipai]

You could do what a lot of others do, get the ignition that mounts up front under the tank. I think its what the K bikes have or maybe its from 400's or some thing. On closer look I see what you mean. Personally I like that cluster I would move it where ever I had to in order to keep the cluster setup. Did you make the cluster bracket yourself? I should re-read the thread.

: Scott :.

[Tintop]

You could do what a lot of others do, get the ignition that mounts up front under the tank. I think its what the K bikes have or maybe its from 400's or some thing. On closer look I see what you mean. Personally I like that cluster I would move it where ever I had to in order to keep the cluster setup. Did you make the cluster bracket yourself? I should re-read the thread.

: Scott :.

I guess that depends on your definition of 'make' Scott.   I designed the gauge mount in Mastercam (3 pieces), and had them waterjet cut.  Then I fitted them together and drilled the holes for the x16 3mx15 button allens.  After finishing the edges I had the pieces polished and anodized.

After looking over the situation, I have decided to mount the ignition switch under the seat.  Picked up a neat little switch bracket from my local custom Harley guy today.  He also had a 1 1/2" oil filled pressure gauge, so I got that as well.  Next stop will be the Aeroquip supplier on Monday to pick up the fittings for the oil pressure gauge line, along with the parts for the remote filter setup.  Will be using 'Startlite' hose as it is 45% lighter than steel braided.  Still deciding whether to clear, or red anodize the remote adapter, and the remote filter mount.