Topic: hard shifting / hard finding neutral - question...

[KB02]

SO after I finally got rhe engine running right, I am noticing that I have a little bit of a shifting issue. Shifting from gear to gear is very stiff. I must use, strong, porposeful movements of my foot in order to get the bike to shift gears. Then, when it comes time to find neutral, it is nearly an impossibility (whether the bike is running or not). When the bike is running, in gear, with the clutch pulled in, and I rev the engine I can feel the bike try to move forward.

After doing a search of the posts here, I am thinkning that I simply need to make a clutch and that should help, right?

Here's one other thing, though: I have put on rearsets, so I have shift linkage that might be a factor in all this. might clucth adjustments be unnessasary if the linkage itself is causing the problems (Different anlges and leverages possibly)?

Just thinking out loud and hoping for a responce...

[bwaller]

Sounds like clutch drag. Before you adjust the clutch though take all the adjustment out of the cable first, give the clutch more play, then re-adjust the cable.

[fastbroshi]

   Even though this is getting a bit stale, thought I'd chime in here while the memory is fresh.  In both my Haynes AND Honda 550 manuals, adjustment for the clutch is addressed in three places: at the bottom of the clutch cover, the clutch cable's bracketry/engagement arm, and up at the clutch lever.   However, it's not said in which direction the screw at the bottom of the clutch cover should be turned to align the marks on the clutch cover and engagement arm.   With different clutches and components and varying levels of wear, it's reasonable to argue it's possible to have your clutch adjusted properly and these won't line up.

   Anyway, start by loosening all three adjustment positions at the lever, engagement arm, and the locknut/screw.
  
   Bottom locknut and screw:  For the CB550, you turn it as far as you can counter clockwise, then back it off maybe an 1/8 of a turn.  I'm dead certain this is the case for the CB350s too.   This will get you in the ballpark and the two marks on the clutch engagement arm should now be aligned or close to it, depending on the thickness of your clutch pack.  Now you can go to adjusting the slack at the two locknuts above the engagement arm, then the handlebar lever to fine tune free play to 10-20mm.

   I was at a members house and he described the same problem as you KB02, same symptoms.   Very hard to get in gear, if at all, jumping into first, etc.   Jogged my memory a bit and I remembered what I was doing wrong, as well as he up to this point.  He'd simply followed his Chilton manual which specifically said to adjust that screw at the bottom of his clutch cover clockwise, which put it fully out of engagement.  THE CLYMER WAS DEAD WRONG!!  We went back the other way, locked it down, and followed the rest of the adjustment procedure.  

  I've never seen anyone address the sticky morning clutch thing either.  I just pull in the clutch and rock the bike back two or three times and that usually breaks it free.  Feel free to chime in if any of this is incorrect.  

  

  

[Inigo Montoya]

Do you still have the original shift lever? If so, put it on and test it. If it still shifts hard, then You can probably discount the rearset linkage.
This simple test will eliminate at least 1 part of the puzzle.
Also, shifting while still is not a really good test. I know N can be hard to find at a stop and moving the bike forward or back even just a little bit can make a difference.

I have also found that different oils will affect the shifting.
just other items for thought.

[scrapvalue]

oil will affect the shifting difficulty.
But if the bike is trying to move when the clutch is pulled in, it is definetly a mis-adjusted clutch issue.

[Inigo Montoya]

It could be or it could be something else in the clutch. I know when on the centerstand and in neutral, the wheel will spin.
So the clutch never fully disengages and this effect can be affected by the oil and weight.
If he has a warped clutch plate, that may also happen but it could be the cable.

[Hush]

I just accept that my gearbox is clunky and finding neutral is like panning for gold.
I've slackened-adjusted-readjusted-reslackened a number of times but my 650 just seems to like being cantankerous.
I just don't think you can expect the smooth modern gear change that newer rice rockets give.

[smileswithadimple]

Loosen all clutch adjusters, including lock nut at bottom adjuster, turn clockwise until it will let go of your gear.  I had the same thing happening to me, and couldn't for the life of me get it to work as per clymer's manual.  Looked up the honda service manual this site, and it says to turn the screw?!? Anyhow I knew full counter clockwise was a no go, so I started to turn clockwise.  Anyhow I can't say how many times I turned it from max counter, but I just guessed to see if it would make a difference, low and behold it did, now my bike has no issue shifting gears, except finding neutral, but hopefully a differnt oil will solve thta problem.  Anyhow it may or may not work for u, alls I'm sayin is it did for me. GL!

[Hush]

What are people having difficulty with here?
You slacken the holding nut and screw the tiny centre threaded bit in until it hits the clutch pressure plate, then you back it off a fraction, tighten the lock nut and you are done!
Well that's how I've always done it, never even looked at my Clymer for a guide?

[KB02]

... never even looked at my Clymer for a guide?

Me either... which also could be a part of the problem. 

Bike is out of paint (for the time being - got to fix clear coat issues) so I should be able to fiddle with it a little bit and see what I can do.