Topic: Another Question of oil leak.

[WingForChrist]

Hello all. I am new and have only worked on my goldwing.
 My main ride is a 77 goldwing but just came across a project 74' CB 360 bike on Monday and then found what seemed to be one in excellent shape on Thursday when advertising request for parts for 360's locally on criagslist.
This one is a 75' cb 360. The owner turned out to be a owner of a motorcycle shop locally.  It starts and runs beautifully, and since it was on the showroom floor I thought it was in good running shape. .  Ended up doing trades on extra hunting equipment I had for both bikes. 
Well I titled it and got tags.  drove it around for the day.  I saw some oil on the left fins around the spark plug after a day of ridding.  Well last night I got out after wife went to bed(perfect bike tinkering time. ). I had run the bike for a few min to see if I see a leak.  well I used my fingers to wipe some oil and the head and exhaust were warm but could touch.  I for some reason touched the other pipe and head.  side of my finger now has a blister. 
This is a good thing.  It told me the left cylinder was not getting fire.  Which is were the oil leak is.  I pulled the left plug wire off while running and no difference.  I put a test plug on it and it was firing.  I pulled the new shiny plug from the bike and it was firing but coated in oil.  --So no gas getting to that side.    I pulled the gas line from the carb and it is getting gas.  unscrewed the float drain bold and gas is coming out. mmmmm. 
I figured out that the bottom tiny screw on the side was for idle later on when looked in the service manual I downloaded the other day.   It was set to 2 1/2 turns out.  I started unscrewing it to see what happens and about 12 turns out.  the idle picked up real good.  I pulled the spark plug wire on the left side and the performace dropped dramatically.  I adjusted the idle down to about 1200 and purring good.   I pulled the right plug wire at this point and it stayed running this time.  Both sides firing good now.
It burned all the old oil out and smoked for a few min but then is was clear. 
I took her out and  when I came back I put it up on center stand and checking it out. 

Looks like the oil was coming from the top cylinder gasket.  I thought I would check the bolts because it looks like someone had the top off and casket material was used to put it back on.  well  I checked the front left top bolt and it started to tighten.  Not putting any pressure on it.  well it keeps slowly turning.  the thing is stripped .  the others around it are tight. 
 
QUESTIONS now.......
* It seems to run good but just a little bit of oil seaping out, not much on the fins.  If it stays like that and very little leaking out would that be OK?
* Can I get a self tapping bolt that I could screw in from bolt store that will put new threading in it?
* I don't want to have to pull and tap the motor if I don't have too.  I have never had to tap a thread before.  If I have too, is the best thing the Helicoils I saw someone mention in another thread?
*  Any alternative methods or options that I could look at?

[HondaMan]

First, about that carb: check to see if someone put the float in upside-down. The airscrew setting should be less than 2 turns to put enough air-fuel in there to make it idle and run to 3500 RPM.

Next: the bolt. Your only option is to pull it apart and install a Helicoil or Keensert or similar. Ace Hardware and Lowe's carry the little kits. Figure out the bolt size and get a Helicoil kit for that size. It's not hard to install:
1. Pull engine apart, get the gaskets. I get stuff from Service Honda and KawasakiPartsNation online, or a local dealer for those 360 bikes.
2. Pull off the cover and the upper cam case. Clean the gaskets carefully: they will be real stuck and you will have to usually knife then off with a razor blade. Gasket softener spray will help.
3. Drill the stripped hole with the drill that comes in the Helicoil kit. Make sure your filings are captured so they don't wander into the engine. Then thread the Helicoil into the new hole with the little tool in the kit.
4. Put it back together with the new gaskets.

The hardest part is actually in removing the old gasket on the bottom of the cam cover: they cook onto the head pretty hard. It usually takes 30-45 minutes to pull the engine, 15 minutes to get to the cam cover gasket, 10 minutes to Helicoil, and 2-3 hours to remove the old gasket. Reassembly and engine installation takes about an hour.