Topic: Norwegian cafe.. Oil tank in the swingarm....

[lordmember1969]

Pistons?

These came with a parts bike i bought, they are 65mm. PO said they were from a big bore kit? Anything I can use in a rebuild ? Did not come with rings but PO meant overbore Honda rings should be fine? Anyway to find out?

Thanks

[lordmember1969]

Anyone tried welding the brake bracket to the fork? 

[MCRider]

65mm is 809.7cc, commonly called a 810 or 811 kit. Not a standard Honda size, including the Honda overbores which would stop at 64mm. Yoshimura was major manufacturer of 810cc kits. Doubt they have anything left to fit.

[wannabridin]

call up weisco or something, they might have some rings to fit...  i work for a piston ring manufacturer, but we don't do automotive/motorcycle rings like that, sadly

as for the welding to the fork tube, i don't know if anyone has attempted it.  i hear welding on the old aluminum can be a bit tricky

[lordmember1969]

Thanks guys 
Will try to weld, if i f......k up i have another set of forks. And make brackets to fit the caliper

[wannabridin]

just remember to clean the fork tube as well as you can!!  inside and out, don't want anything catching on fire or you breathing in any bad fumes!!  also, make sure it's a good and penetrating weld, and don't quench!  it could become quite brittle with anything other than air cooling...

[traveler]

Should work fine.....why not?  If the oil is still in the tube, it will keep things cool.....if surface prep is accomplished it will work fine.  then later, when the forks are someday apart...clip off all the old brackets to clean the look up and it will be truly one-off.

~Joe

[traveler]

Pistons?

These came with a parts bike i bought, they are 65mm. PO said they were from a big bore kit? Anything I can use in a rebuild ? Did not come with rings but PO meant overbore Honda rings should be fine? Anyway to find out?

Thanks

Well, I hope you can find some rings....although they will more than likely be VERY expensive.  So, you will have to decide then if they are really worth it, or sell them off to someone who collects stuff like that and go with an 836 kit or something.

Nothing wrong with staying at 736cc and spending the money on the head and cams BTW.

~Joe

[traveler]

Take old " Harley" handlebar, got same diameter as the frame tubing.

Cut, weld, and grind

Make sure you put some smaller tubing between the pieces to act as a plug to ensure a strong weld!


~Joe

[wannabridin]

Take old " Harley" handlebar, got same diameter as the frame tubing.

Cut, weld, and grind

Make sure you put some smaller tubing between the pieces to act as a plug to ensure a strong weld!


~Joe

x2!!  also, for added strength, if needed, throw a couple plug welds onto the plugs and then add a nice transition piece as a gusset somewhere next to the newly created joint.  look good, and add strength!

and Joe, nothing wrong with staying at 736 indeed!!  except i might just have to grab a set of 4th over pistons from Z1...  that makes it something like 761?

[MCRider]

760.921   

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_displacement.htm

[lordmember1969]

Thanks a lot for all the advice and interest. For the welding  of the front fork a Friend who is professional will help me out.. Will try to do it this weekend, so I let you know how that turns out..

Take old " Harley" handlebar, got same diameter as the frame tubing.

Cut, weld, and grind

Make sure you put some smaller tubing between the pieces to act as a plug to ensure a strong weld!


~Joe

x2!!  also, for added strength, if needed, throw a couple plug welds onto the plugs and then add a nice transition piece as a gusset somewhere next to the newly created joint.  look good, and add strength!

and Joe, nothing wrong with staying at 736 indeed!!  except i might just have to grab a set of 4th over pistons from Z1...  that makes it something like 761?

For the frame, will follow your advise there:) Thanks

760.921   

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_displacement.htm

Cool

[lordmember1969]

Should work fine.....why not?  If the oil is still in the tube, it will keep things cool.....if surface prep is accomplished it will work fine.  then later, when the forks are someday apart...clip off all the old brackets to clean the look up and it will be truly one-off.

~Joe

Took of all the brackets exept the fender brackets, The old one for the brake already gone

[lordmember1969]

Well, I hope you can find some rings....although they will more than likely be VERY expensive.  So, you will have to decide then if they are really worth it, or sell them off to someone who collects stuff like that and go with an 836 kit or something.

Nothing wrong with staying at 736cc and spending the money on the head and cams BTW.

~Joe

Will do head and cam, but these were almost free So Will try get rings Any advise on a good street cam? Would like as much torque as possible

[MFHP]

65mm is 809.7cc, commonly called a 810 or 811 kit. Not a standard Honda size, including the Honda overbores which would stop at 64mm. Yoshimura was major manufacturer of 810cc kits. Doubt they have anything left to fit.

How did you calculate that? With a stroke of 63 mm this 65mm bore will make around 836cc which is the same as Wiseco. Might be worth trying if Wiseco rings fit or if the pistons can be modified on the lathe to make wiseco rings fit to them. The pistons look interesting as they seem to have a quite high CR with the high dome they have

Mike

[MCRider]

65mm is 809.7cc, commonly called a 810 or 811 kit. Not a standard Honda size, including the Honda overbores which would stop at 64mm. Yoshimura was major manufacturer of 810cc kits. Doubt they have anything left to fit.

How did you calculate that? With a stroke of 63 mm this 65mm bore will make around 836cc which is the same as Wiseco. Might be worth trying if Wiseco rings fit or if the pistons can be modified on the lathe to make wiseco rings fit to them. The pistons look interesting as they seem to have a quite high CR with the high dome they have

Mike

Plugged it into this calculator.  
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_displacement.htm

And you're right. I must have fat fingered the first go around.

[MFHP]

[/quote]
Plugged it into this calculator.  
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_displacement.htm

And you're right. I must have fat fingered the first go around.
[/quote]

well, thats a V-twin page. Would explain it as well 

[MCRider]

Plugged it into this calculator.  
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_displacement.htm

And you're right. I must have fat fingered the first go around.
[/quote]

well, thats a V-twin page. Would explain it as well 
[/quote]
Yeah that's the ticket, it wasn't my fault.   

I tried this one too.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/displacement.html

I've tried every combo I could think of and can't duplicate my error.

Thanks for keeping me honest.

[lordmember1969]

Done welding the rear. Not decided on the design on the taillight yet. But this is how it looks so far

[lordmember1969]

Cleaning up the triple trees

Weld up





And then some grinding

[Holdingfast]

great build so far! I love the way you're finding solutions to the problems encountered.

[lordmember1969]

great build so far! I love the way you're finding solutions to the problems encountered.

Thank you That is the fun part

[Zig]

just remember to clean the fork tube as well as you can!!  inside and out, don't want anything catching on fire or you breathing in any bad fumes!!  also, make sure it's a good and penetrating weld, and don't quench!  it could become quite brittle with anything other than air cooling...

thought quenching of non ferrous metals made them softer?? not sure, have done repairs on copper, brass in the past but never aluminum.

[MFHP]

Done welding the rear. Not decided on the design on the taillight yet. But this is how it looks so far

Taillight setup looks great. Go with that

Mike

[750]

Anyone tried welding the brake bracket to the fork? 

Wow, I have to say, this is one of my favorites.  Do you have or have you had it running on the EFI yet??  As far as the aluminum welding goes, this is a big deal when talking about brakes.  It really depends on the type of aluminum.  Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.  I 'm going off of memory, but I believe If its 50 or 60 series it is weldable.  However if it's 20 or 70 series it is not.  Most aluminum's I have worked with will take a weld and it will look vary nice.  Though, if the aluminum is not weldable it will usually stress crack right away along side of the weld.  That said, this doesn't always happen right away, it could hold for a long time and let loose at an inopportune time.  I propose for your safety and for the safety of everyone else you devise some sort of bracket instead of depending on an unknown or do some heavy research and find out the the makeup of the aluminum and know before you strike an ark weather or not it is weldable.  Just a suggestion   That and about $75.00 at StarBucks will get you a cup of coffee.