Topic: Norwegian cafe.. Oil tank in the swingarm....

[SohRon]

there ment to be a gab...it is shown in honda manuals..the way it must be..just as here

god jul i norge..det pis regner i danmark

God jul Her er det pluss to grader og duskregn, det lille vi har av snø er på vei bort

Gap is correct but must be oriented to the rear... it's backwards in the pic. Really would like more info on the in-arm oil tank. Looking good so far!

[MCRider]

There is a bone of contention as to the gap. I agree, was always raised to put it in the rear. However, Hondaman holds that Honda told him it goes to the front. There have been discussions as to the physics of front vs rear, favoring the front.

Some clamps have arrows. Assuming the arrow goes forward, that usually puts the gap in the rear. But not always, IIRC.

PS: I'll take this opportunity to sy to anyone who might not know, do not try to close this gap by overtightening the nut. You'll stress the stud, possibly break it. Torque the non-gap side first. Then torque the gap side and STOP.

[SohRon]

There is a bone of contention as to the gap. I agree, was always raised to put it in the rear. However, Hondaman holds that Honda told him it goes to the front.

Never heard that; all of the info I've seen from Honda (and others) states pretty unambiguously that the gap goes to the rear, with the front bolts tightened first, no matter what bike and, logically it makes more sense for (limited) protection of the axle shaft from the elements, though I'm sure there are better reasons to do it this way. If you have different info, would be glad to see it.

[strynboen]

  here are one

[strynboen]

  trying again
this are haynes
klic for bigger pic

[MCRider]

As mentioned I agree with the rear gap. Maybe i was dreaming and there is no contention. My Clymer and several other CB750 related books clearly show the gap in rear.

So if no one steps forward to champion the gap in front idea, forget i brought it up.

I searched and couldn't find any thread to that effect.

[SohRon]

Don't want to hijack this thread. Stryboen, your diagram clearly shows the gap being oriented to the rear (I'm assuming "vome" means "front"). Here's the same page from the English version:



Thanks.

[mrjack55]

Not again... 

When I started as a honda mechanic, circa 1969, I was assigned for the first 3 months to be the Assembler of new bikes out of their crates (it was a shop tradition, to teach you about the bikes). ALL of the Hondas came with the gaps in the front, despite what the various manuals said, straight from the factories. It was a point on the cheklist, done by the shop manager, after the assembly. I did get it wrong on a few at first, and was reprimanded, so it was always easy to remember after that.

A mechanical stress analysis will show that the forces involved in a bump incident will enter the rear stud with far less shear (i.e., strees vector enters at an angle) if the faces meet flat. In real life, the studs are so big that I doubt anyone would ever shear one off: I once changed oil on a California rider's bike (at our Illinois shop) who was on a cross-country two, two-up, and one of the nuts on the front cap was missing altogether! There was no damage, and he never noticed until I pointed it out and sold him a nut and the two washers. It was bolted flush on the back side, front one missing.

Just in case Mark has had enough of this topic, I found this bit from 09.

[MCRider]

Not again... 

When I started as a honda mechanic, circa 1969, I was assigned for the first 3 months to be the Assembler of new bikes out of their crates (it was a shop tradition, to teach you about the bikes). ALL of the Hondas came with the gaps in the front, despite what the various manuals said, straight from the factories. It was a point on the cheklist, done by the shop manager, after the assembly. I did get it wrong on a few at first, and was reprimanded, so it was always easy to remember after that.

A mechanical stress analysis will show that the forces involved in a bump incident will enter the rear stud with far less shear (i.e., strees vector enters at an angle) if the faces meet flat. In real life, the studs are so big that I doubt anyone would ever shear one off: I once changed oil on a California rider's bike (at our Illinois shop) who was on a cross-country two, two-up, and one of the nuts on the front cap was missing altogether! There was no damage, and he never noticed until I pointed it out and sold him a nut and the two washers. It was bolted flush on the back side, front one missing.

Just in case Mark has had enough of this topic, I found this bit from 09.

Thanks! At least i know i wasn't dreaming. I think there is quite a bit more, but it all revolves around what was said there.

[SohRon]

You have to give HondaMan his due respect; he certainly was there when it all came down, and I consider his opinion to be pretty close to God speaking; but, that said, it flies in the face of all the other evidence I've found.

Evidently this is a question with no real answer. Sorry for the disruption. Carry on.

[strynboen]

all respekt for honda mann...but hvat say kawasaki yamaha suzuki..honda cbx ......ok cbx have 4 bolts..
and sorry for off topic..norvay....

[MCRider]

You have to give HondaMan his due respect; he certainly was there when it all came down, and I consider his opinion to be pretty close to God speaking; but, that said, it flies in the face of all the other evidence I've found.

Evidently this is a question with no real answer. Sorry for the disruption. Carry on.

Well that's where I ended up, too. So what I do myself about this is a closely guarded secret.   

In my quiet moments, I do Google searches...

[lordmember1969]

Thank you guys And happy New year will put the gap in the rear

[lordmember1969]

Hi all its been a while since there been some progress on the bike:) A lot of stuff took time from the bike. Finally got some time to do the wiring. Decided to use the carburettors to test everything before I started wiring the EFI. Could not use the tank because the arms on the carbs hit the tank. So the old SS tank vent on intill the EFI goes on.
Here are some pictures 


One of the projects that got in the way

Relocated battery



DOHC exhaust did not fit but after some cutting, welding and grinding it looks allright:)

[lordmember1969]

For those who are interested in the oil in swingarm



Feed,return and ventilation under the tank/swingarm:)



You can see the tube for the ventilation in the oilfiller hole

[strynboen]

you have  a  long vinter in norvay...and you use the time for some great procjekts...

[lordmember1969]

you have  a  long vinter in norvay...and you use the time for some great procjekts...

Thanks Annyone know what would bee the best fork oil. Tried 10w 40 fork oil but the forks feel to hard and the return is to slow? Annyone had the same trouble?

[Mugen_Stumpo]

top notch work... wow

[lordmember1969]

top notch work... wow

Thank you:) Anyone have thoughts about the fork oil?

[lordmember1969]

 Oilcooler:)







Did fill up the oiltank:) But was short of one hose so have to wait til tomorrow to start up
Holds 2 litres off oil, so hope that will be enough

[MCRider]

you have  a  long vinter in norvay...and you use the time for some great procjekts...

Thanks Annyone know what would bee the best fork oil. Tried 10w 40 fork oil but the forks feel to hard and the return is to slow? Annyone had the same trouble?

As with all oil threads, "best' is in the eyes of the beholder. 10W-30 is in many manuals. A little stiff for my taste. ATF is in many manuals. That's about 7-8w depending on the source. I like it. It also has stuff in it to make it seal and anti-foam friendly. I guess, who knows.

I'd use ATF as a starting point, and experiment from there. There are dedicated fork oils available from on line or cycle shops mostly in the dirt bike section, that vary the weight in small increments above 10, like 12, 15, etc.

Remember that in our old forks the oil plays little part in compression damping. Some, just because its there. The spring does most, like 95%, so if its too stiff its either the spring or live with it.

The oil dampens the rebound. Too much damping and the wheel won't follow rapid succession bumps. And it feels bad in the bumpies. Too much damping rebound can make the com presion side feel stiff. Imagine, the wheel goes up nicely, goes back down slowly. doesn't get fully set before it hits another bump. Compression now suffers, and the rebound is once again too slow. Com presion suffers again. You can actually suck the front end down each bump this scenario, building in more and more preload into the spring, causing it to feel stiffer and stiffer.

[lordmember1969]

you have  a  long vinter in norvay...and you use the time for some great procjekts...

Thanks Annyone know what would bee the best fork oil. Tried 10w 40 fork oil but the forks feel to hard and the return is to slow? Annyone had the same trouble?

As with all oil threads, "best' is in the eyes of the beholder. 10W-30 is in many manuals. A little stiff for my taste. ATF is in many manuals. That's about 7-8w depending on the source. I like it. It also has stuff in it to make it seal and anti-foam friendly. I guess, who knows.

I'd use ATF as a starting point, and experiment from there. There are dedicated fork oils available from on line or cycle shops mostly in the dirt bike section, that vary the weight in small increments above 10, like 12, 15, etc.

Remember that in our old forks the oil plays little part in compression damping. Some, just because its there. The spring does most, like 95%, so if its too stiff its either the spring or live with it.

The oil dampens the rebound. Too much damping and the wheel won't follow rapid succession bumps. And it feels bad in the bumpies. Too much damping rebound can make the com presion side feel stiff. Imagine, the wheel goes up nicely, goes back down slowly. doesn't get fully set before it hits another bump. Compression now suffers, and the rebound is once again too slow. Com presion suffers again. You can actually suck the front end down each bump this scenario, building in more and more preload into the spring, causing it to feel stiffer and stiffer.

Thank you:) The wheel does not go back fast enough so it dampens the rebound to much..
Thanks

[lordmember1969]

First test ride today:) Worked out well:) Had to modify the gearshifter a bit, but other than that all was ok. Had oilpressure:) Was a bit worried that the oil reservoir was a bit to small. The oil level varies a bit from full throttle to idle . But vented the tank and seems to work well  Are going to a rally tomorrow so will be testing further

Time for a beer.... Cheers 

[lordmember1969]

Anyone tried to run carburettors from the CB 650 on the 750?

[strynboen]

that beer..breather??up behind seat..tuborg??danish dynamite