Author Topic: Documenting my factory one K1 restore (Read 32887 times)

mycb750k6 · « **on:** May 09, 2010, 05:21:30 AM »

I'm going to do this as a series of posts and replies to myself I guess. Anyone can chime in at any time I guess is how it works. So here we go.

I bought another K1 off eBay in April. This was it advertised at 8800 original miles but when I got it those miles were obviously done in the ice and snow. The picture looked much better that what showed up- what a surprise. It became clear it was going to be a frame up restore. Much more bucks than I had allocated.

After some discussions with Honda Man, it was apparent this was a factory one K1 and worth the effort. Those who've read the H-man book know what that means.

Hope this is the right format. This is mainly for my own entertainment.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:01:31 AM »

Tear down took a little less than a day. Here are some of the gruesome pictures

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:09:22 AM »

Looks to me like it had a fire at some point

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:13:21 AM »

More yukky surprises:

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:19:15 AM »

Gotta start somewhere so why not the frame: First protest the races and then blast it and paint at the painters. ( I don't paint) Then build the jig to hold the motor on it's right side. Finally prepare the frame to lower over engine.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:27:39 AM »

Time to sand and paint the engine using Duplicolor prime and aluminum case paint.

zzpete · « **Reply #6 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:33:10 AM »

Looking good! I want to see the engine jig you'll be using. I want to make one. I'm not getting any younger so anything to make it easier.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:35:19 AM »

Time to make some parts, paint and polish others.
I had to make a missing side cover tab.
These shocks rode well so I cleaned them up
Time to start polishing.
Had to make a shock tool for dis-assembly.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:41:19 AM »

zzpete,
This is the best picture of the jig I have. The process took five minutes and I never got a picture of the engine in the jig because it was righted so quickly.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:43:26 AM »

More stuff to polish and paint.
A little magic marker on the oil lines did wonders. I polished the ends and then cleared them in hopes they stay that way a while.
Forks and gators and 7 oz 10-30 fork oil for the K1

zzpete · « **Reply #10 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:46:06 AM »

Quote from: mycb750k6 on May 09, 2010, 06:41:19 AM

zzpete,
This is the best picture of the jig I have. The process too five minutes and I never got a picture of the engine in the jig because it was righted so quickly.

Thanks K6, I see what your getting at. I kinda had the same idea. The rest of the restore is looking sweet. Can't wait to see the finished product.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:51:05 AM »

OK roll the engine on it's side into the jig and then lower the frame down using a block and tackle.
There was a thin foam layer and a thin cardboard layer taped around the frame tubes so when I lowered the frame there was a snug fit and some resistance when I pushed it down so when it reached the mounting holes, it just stayed in place so I could put the bolts in. Took five minutes. No scratches or dings. Me thinks a little overkill. Loose the oil drain plug though. And for you H-man book owners, grinding the flange off before painting made things slip on easier. And I also had no water drain holes in the down tubes either. So I do now.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:57:22 AM »

Assembly time. First the triple.
Then using the tackle hoist the front up and then the rear. The wheels will get cleaned up later.
I couldn't have done this alone without the block and tackle from HF.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 09, 2010, 07:09:22 AM »

End phase I.
HM300 kit arrived from DS yesterday and the paint job this week some time. This is going to be the European K1 Polynesian Blue Metallic. Still much to do but this since April 1.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 09, 2010, 07:48:54 AM »

Time to make stickers. Clear Mylar over chrome sticky back adhesive does the trick. I make the tire caution, oil tank and swing arm stickers plus the neck badge but can't show you that. My feeling is people gouge you so much for these stupid parts, you really have to make them yourself.

traveler · « **Reply #15 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:14:24 AM »

you make it look too easy!

How were the wheels? rusty?

was the stock exhaust salvageable?

~Joe

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:18:08 AM »

Time for gauges. Not bad but not good either.
Need re-chromed backings, repainted covers and made a bunch of K1 gauge plates to choose from.
I'm trying to convince myself to go Polynesian Blue Metallic on the gauge face but I'm not there yet.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:24:55 AM »

traveler,
I've not spent any time on the wheels yet. I just wanted to get it to the point I could roll it around. It was like a quadriplegic just sitting there on the floor. Anyway the rims are good I think. The spokes need work or replacement and the hubs will clean up.

The exhaust is OK but not my style. It's a two into two. I've haven't cleaned the exhaust up yet but will maybe try to find another home for it.

traveler · « **Reply #18 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:28:42 AM »

You made the gauge plates? Those plates at Yamiha are EXPENSIVE!

I hope you keep her stock. The early 750's really look nice all stock.

~Joe

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:29:53 AM »

Gauges from my other K1 when finished.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:33:14 AM »

It will be completely stock except for some chrome bolts here and there. That's why I'm struggling with whether to do blue gauge faces or not. Gauges are easily swappable though.

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:37:53 AM »

Time to anodize.
Here's my anodized master cylinder. I want to do the switches too but maybe after it's running. This can be really rewarding once you figure it out.

Update 8/5/2010 - started an anodizing thread -> http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=75004.0

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 09, 2010, 09:01:19 AM »

The only really non-stock item is the shocks. I don't have any stock shocks and I'm not about to pay $300+ for NOS that were a poor design to begin with. I'll run with these black things until I figure it out. I have no idea what they are but they work quite well. They're pretty stiff but I'm 185lbs

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #23 on:** May 09, 2010, 10:00:00 AM »

Quote from: mycb750k6 on May 09, 2010, 08:37:53 AM

Time to anodize.
Here's my anodized master cylinder. I want to do the switches too but maybe after it's running. This can be really rewarding once you figure it out.

Yeah, ONCE YOU FIGURE IT OUT..... How about providing the service for our members or posting a good tutorial on how you do it??!! Looks really nice.

Jerry

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 09, 2010, 10:26:14 AM »

Actually I have posted on anodizing here before.
Read this article by Ron Newman, http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html . It gives a really good overview of all the parts and processes. That's how I started. It's not difficult but it does take a lot of practice and a deep, dark black is definitely the hardest to do. It's also complicated by by the poor quality pot metal used in many of the Honda cast parts. Having said that, it can be done and I've done it and will continue to do it. Setup is a $150 bucks or so and there are a lot of factors affecting the end result including bath temp, current density, acid concentration to name a few all explained in Ron's article.
What is it you're wanting to anodize? I honestly have enough on my plate without taking on work and there's no guarantee you'd like the results you got and then what?

News:

Author Topic: Documenting my factory one K1 restore (Read 32887 times)

traveler

traveler