Topic: 530 chain conversion

[eldar]

Ok I gotthe 630 chain since I have a later model of 750. Now while I like the look and, in some ways, the size; there are few sources for the 630 chain and they are expensive.

I am unsure of what I need to do to make the conversion to 530. I need a 530 chain and sprockets of course but what number of teeth front and back and what number of links?

Any thing else I need to do?

My K8 came with an o-ring chain so I should be able to do an o-ring 530 easy.

[bwaller]

I don't know what the stock gearing was for your K8, but just replace the sprockets with the same number of teeth you have now, if you were happy with the set-up. My K3 runs 18T front & 48T rear and 100 links, but the later model is different. Someone else will respond with the right # of links I'm sure, and if not make sure the new chain has at least 110 links and cut the same length as your present chain first to fit and if too long then maybe you'll need to remove a little more because your present chain had stretched. This may not be the scientific approach, but you'll get there!

[eldar]

Well I will probably go with the teeth count the earlier 750s used. But I need to know what else I need to do to make the change and the number of links I need.

The old posts did not yield much info.

[scondon]

   I'm at work with no access to spec's so if I get some of this wrong, forgive me.

    I've converted both of my '78 F's to 530 and this is what I know.....

Stock 630 sprockets(750F)- 14T/15T Front, 43T(?) rear

Aftermarket 530 replacement choices-  17T/18T  Front,  46T/48T rear

divide rear #(T) by front #(T) to find gear ratio which in my case is....

Stock 630:  43/15=2.87

Replacement 530: 48/17=2.82



    My suggestion would be to get exactly what bwaller has(18T/48T=2.67ratio) and also the 110 link chain he suggests. This will keep the rpm's low on the freeway. If you like to race through the twisties then try a higher ratio(17T/48T=2.82).

    The sprockets are narrower than your stock ones so you may end up adding a washer on the front sprocket, but other than that there is nothing to do but buy the parts and put them on.

     You will need a grinder and a chain rivet tool to do the job yourself. I'd only worry about getting a chain that is too short, 110 links should be plenty.

[bwaller]

I'm afraid I suffered from brainfartitis for a bit there. The chain pitch is of course different for both 500(5/8) & 600(3/4) series chain.  I looked back and found someone who ran the 630 chain and a 15T front & 41T rear (2.73) which would translate to very close to what my K3 stock setup is 18 &48, but the info & options Scondon offered then makes good sense. All things equal, 100 links should be right but don't cut it until you're sure. 

[frostypuck]

I've done this swap on 2 '78 750's. Just use the same set up as on the '76 and earlier bikes. But remember- your stock '78 should have a smaller rear wheel. Therefore more revolutions for any given speed.  Once all that was done, I opted to get a pre'77 wheel anyway, because that size is also easier and cheaper to find.
And for some reason, I had to go two extra links on the chain, so order it accordingly. Additionally, the rear wheel is spaced slightly differently because of the wider original chain, I imagine. So to get the 530 chain straight, you'll need to fashion a spacer out of a larger washer but I can't remember which side of the wheel the spacer goes onto. It'll be painfully obvious once the new chain is installed.
Do it up and document your results along the way for the other 6 surviving K8's out there, and put it in the FAQ's also, a side benefit is you save a few pounds (the American ones, not the British type) just on the weight difference between the 630 chain/sprockets and 530's.
Later,
Chris in Boston

[scondon]

But remember- your stock '78 should have a smaller rear wheel. Therefore more revolutions for any given speed.

  So that's why the final drive ratio is so different between 78 K&F models. I'll be damned, a 17" rear wheel. I'm home now and checking the manual-

Final drive ratio(78 750K-stock):  2.733

The 18T/48T(2.67) should work fine on your stock set-up with no real noticable difference.

[MRieck]

Do it up and document your results along the way for the other 6 surviving K8's out there,.
Later,
Chris in Boston

Chris....you know for a fact there are only 4 in existence.

[bhassell]

Eldar,
I asked for and got lots of help in the past couple of weeks on the same subject.  I posted the info for the sprockets in one of my last posts if it will help.  Kind of thought it would be beneficial for the rest of the 77/78 pack and a possible FAQ bit.  If you want the JT Sprockets info for the other ratio combinations let me know and I will spare you some search time...by the weekend I should be able to tell you "to the link" how many 530 links you need, I ordered 110 myself to be safe...Good Luck!


http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=6646.msg62770#msg62770

[nteek754]

Hey all
the stock yes was 18 48 or 17 45 and the one inch differance on the back wheel wont amount to much at all not even 250 rpms sis was running a 17 rear wheel and I a 16 if she was going like a half mile an hour faster than me the bikes would harmonize hence reving the same now she runs a 16 also and they just hummmmmm together  good luck  Craig in Maine seven fifty four ever

[eldar]

Yeah the rim is smaller but the tire is larger. Ok so I will just need a spacer which I think I did read from a past post, goes on the rear tire on the left side. Guess I will find out when I am allowed to get a new set! Damn women! They just dont understand safety!

I just would like to get the exact chain length. The K8 is a bit longer then the k6 and earlier but distance from sprocket to sprocket should be about the same. I just hate having to take a perfectly good chain and modify it. But if I have to, then I will.