Topic: she's not wearing a seatbelt (forks question)

[2wheels]

Edit
Not many want to read about forks, so I changed the Subject and added some content.


First, I just got this 78 cb750f.
When changing the fork oil I found the left side had 150 cc in it.  The right side had 90 cc in it.

So I put 150 cc of ATF in both sides.  But I see seapage on the right side.
I cleaned the fork with solvent but after a ride the seapage was back.

Any ideas?

[2wheels]

bump

[Hush]

Your fork seals are gone buddy, I see a trip to your local Honda supplier in your future.

[manjisann]

Hush is probably right, if the one fork was lower on oil it had to have gone somewhere and the rubber seals on the top are the usual culprit. One thing though, I couldn't tell from the picture, is the oil stream coming down from the top of the fork or just below the little bolt on the bottom (the one above the two bolts holding the axle on). If you opened that little nut that acts as a bleeder or drain of sorts you will want to replace the copper crush washer or else you will likely leak. It is my understanding that once you crush it once and then loosen the bolt the copper crush washer is shot and has to be replaced.

HTH

Brandon

[fastbroshi]

  I think man is on the right track.  If the actual bleeder bolt is dry and it's dripping down below, then most likely the allen head bolt at the bottom of the fork is loose or the gasket washer is compromised.  Those nuts just hold the axle cap on.  You have to take the wheel off to get to it to inspect that allen bolt. 

[manjisann]

   Ahh color me embarrassed, Fastbroshi is right, I forgot about the allen head screw that holds the damper down, if you have a leak only at the bottom of the fork, that is a very likely culprit.

Brandon

[Hush]

Ha ha, that'l teach me not to enlarge the picture big enough to read those tiny words.
OK so your leak is lower down than the fork seal, as Brandon said replace copper crush seal and see if that cures it.

[dave500]

that car dosent have air bags either,,i dont think that would matter though,i mean considering the physical parameters involved.

[fastbroshi]

woohoo you don't even have to blow up that picture to tell she's packin

[Hush]

I've been back for a second look, even blowen the picture up....got caught by the missus...thanks guys!

[Retro Rocket]

Who needs a seat belt when you got air bags {fun bags} like that.....

Mick

[2wheels]

Thanks All

The little drain screw stays dry.

It's just down by the axel screw that's oily.
So the allen head screw (under the axel) can leak?
I don't see any O rings or gaskets in the in repair manual picture.

I may need to tighten the allen screw up or replace the gasket washer, is that correct?

Thanks
That picture is an eye catcher.

[GammaFlat]

Yes, you may be able to tighten it. 

There's more to the story though.  Everything inside the shock may behave but you might also have a situation where the darn innards want to rotate when you tighten.  This isn't as likely but but possible.  (see solution below)

Now, if tightening doesn't fix your problem, you may have the same problem in reverse.  You won't be able to get the bolt out without the innards of the shock turning (again).  The best way to do this (in my opinion) is with a rattle gun.  It gets worse.  If that doesn't do it, off with the shock... out with the spring... down the tube with a wooden doll (or something) to hold the innards, then rattle it again.  And while it's apart, you might as well put seals on it.  Sorry I don't  have a more fun story for you. 

[2wheels]

Ok
I'll take the wheel off and but the air gun too it and try and tighen it up.

Maybe I'll try taking the bolt off first and see what it looks like when I take it out.
If it comes out.

[fastbroshi]

  No don't do that, more oil will come out.  I'd just try to tighten it with a ratchet if I were you.  Could be an excuse to remove and inspect the forks, clean 'em, and put back together with some fresh oil. 

[2wheels]

Ok
Sounds good, I'll just tighten it and see what happens.

[2wheels]

So, the finial solution.
The leaking hex head bolt was allready very tight.

I used the air gun (I tried without but that was a waste of time) and removed the  bolt off both forks.

Yes the oil did come out but it was leaking, so I didn't know how much was in there, so it needed to come out anyway.

It was leaking because the last person to remove these bolts did not clean all the sealant up that someone before him, put on.

I cleaned all the sealant up, sanded both copper washers till they were flat and smooth.
Made sure that both surfaces the copper washer touches were flat and clean.

Then reinstalled these bolts, although I haven't found the correct torque value for them.

Now I have been leak free for 2 days.   

Thanks to all for your info.