Author Topic: Engine Install How to - with pics (Read 23405 times)

Bill K · « **on:** May 23, 2010, 08:17:24 AM »

  I searched and did not see this method used before. If it has oh well, my bad. This worked well for me. I installed my fresh 836 with no help, in about a hour.

   What you will need: a length of pipe about 5 ft. strong enough to hold motor
   3 tie down straps
   2 Jack stands, and 2 milk crates if your stands are to short
   some old towels to protect your engine

  My original plan was to get the motor up hanging on the pipe then slide it over into the frame. As it turned out once I had the motor up that wasn't happening. So with the bike on the center stand I simply "scooted" the bike to the motor. I'm not great at explaining things step by step so here are some pics.

co425 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 23, 2010, 09:35:01 AM »

Pretty slick. Was trying to think of a way to do that last week with a cherry picker. I ended up wraping the crap out of the frame and the top end of the motor. I used a motorcycle jack to get it to frame height and two of us one on each side of the bike walked it in inch by inch until it droped in. My favorite way by far is just a completly bare frame with the engine on its side.

zzpete · « **Reply #2 on:** May 23, 2010, 10:26:13 AM »

I might try it. I have a motor to put in and last time I used the lay it on the side method which works all right. Thanks for the tip.

BobbyR · « **Reply #3 on:** May 23, 2010, 07:12:53 PM »

That is very creative.

CycleRanger · « **Reply #4 on:** May 23, 2010, 07:42:52 PM »

Milk crates. Essential items for any shop!

I might try something like this myself when the time comes.

Bill K · « **Reply #5 on:** May 24, 2010, 05:00:11 PM »

Milk crates are essential for any shop. I use them all the time, very versatile. Just make sure they are the "heavy duty" ones before you trust them with alot of weight.

gnarlycharlie4u · « **Reply #6 on:** June 03, 2010, 09:01:13 AM »

wow kudos for working smart, not hard.

it looks like you scooted the milk crates rather than just the motor though.

wannabridin · « **Reply #7 on:** June 03, 2010, 09:37:57 AM »

very nicely done!! i've been contemplating laying my motor on its side like is the norm around here, and it seems good enough, but make sure theres PLENTY of padding!! this is a great, and most importantly CHEAP, method of installing the motor! KUDOS my friend!

sangyo soichiro · « **Reply #8 on:** June 03, 2010, 10:54:21 AM »

That is genius!

buckeye74 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 05, 2010, 07:47:52 PM »

Any pics of when you lay the motor on its side?

HedNut · « **Reply #10 on:** June 10, 2010, 11:20:58 AM »

NICE! Slick idea man! Cheers!

traveler · « **Reply #11 on:** June 10, 2010, 11:47:04 AM »

best part is you were able to do it by yourself, and only took one hour!

You could do the reverse to pull an engine quickly as well.

Thanks for sharing!

~Joe

HAIRHEAD · « **Reply #12 on:** June 11, 2010, 05:54:28 PM »

Quote from: Bill K on May 23, 2010, 08:17:24 AM

I searched and did not see this method used before. If it has oh well, my bad. This worked well for me. I installed my fresh 836 with no help, in about a hour.

   What you will need: a length of pipe about 5 ft. strong enough to hold motor
   3 tie down straps
   2 Jack stands, and 2 milk crates if your stands are to short
   some old towels to protect your engine

  My original plan was to get the motor up hanging on the pipe then slide it over into the frame. As it turned out once I had the motor up that wasn't happening. So with the bike on the center stand I simply "scooted" the bike to the motor. I'm not great at explaining things step by step so here are some pics.

AWESOME....I love the off the map black arts

DocVile · « **Reply #13 on:** June 16, 2010, 07:17:38 AM »

This is great!! Will be doing it this weekend!!

cb650 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 16, 2010, 03:44:11 PM »

Very cool!!! Paul you seein this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

redbullssg · « **Reply #15 on:** June 27, 2010, 10:34:03 AM »

This looks like a great method. You could also use a motorcycle jack for the frame then just roll it over the motor.

At my work, they throw away bearing sliders and rails away that aren't all bad all of the time. If they get a little warn, they get tossed and replace, but would be great for something like this. The rails are either of two sizes, 1" or 1-3/4". I think the 1" would be strong enough. Then all I would have to do is mount some short hooks on both sides of the sliders where the straps would go, and you could just slide it in on the rail. And instead of using jack stands to suspend both ends, I could use my beam in the garage. When I built the garage, I was sure to put a overly large support beam in to hoist motors, snomobiles, what ever..... Great idea Bill!

torrinh · « **Reply #16 on:** June 30, 2010, 07:34:15 AM »

you could put locking casters under the milk crates then just slide the whole rig sideways so the engine goes into the frame. Great idea though, better than my dad and I busting our knuckles to get that b*tch in.

vargas · « **Reply #17 on:** July 02, 2010, 02:02:41 PM »

Great idea! this is how i will reinstall my engine. moving the bike to the motor seems like a better idea than moving the motor to the bike.. you have to keep in mind that the motor is hanging from ratchet straps.. making it harder to control its motion while trying to place it in a small hole surrounded by fresh paint or powerder coating.

question where the heck do you guys get your milk crates?

THE DUDE · « **Reply #18 on:** July 02, 2010, 03:45:39 PM »

Very Clever but I just bend over and pick mine up and put it in

CycleRanger · « **Reply #19 on:** September 26, 2010, 12:20:59 PM »

Quote from: vargas on July 02, 2010, 02:02:41 PM

question where the heck do you guys get your milk crates?

Behind the Safeway, late at night....

But seriously, many thanks to Bill K.
I just duplicated his setup and effortlessly installed my 750 engine in the frame by myself in about 10 minutes.

sebatje · « **Reply #20 on:** October 11, 2010, 01:27:53 AM »

When I install an engine, I just get someone to hold the bolts, I lift up the engine in my arms and put it on its place in the frame. Mine is a 400 , are these 750 engines so heavy?

The_Crippler · « **Reply #21 on:** October 11, 2010, 06:06:27 AM »

Quote from: vargas on July 02, 2010, 02:02:41 PM

moving the bike to the motor seems like a better idea than moving the motor to the bike..

The mountain to Muhammad and all that.

Another point for the uninitiated that might have been missed in the pic: Notice in the first picture that the oil filter is on, and then not in the others. This is very, very much key. How do I know? I missed that detail in engine removal pictures before I did it the first time a while back. I fought with it for much longer than I'm willing to admit before I figured it out. Once the filter was removed, *woosh* right into the frame.

grumpy · « **Reply #22 on:** October 21, 2010, 07:12:35 AM »

COOL!

Quote from: sebatje on October 11, 2010, 01:27:53 AM

... are these 750 engines so heavy?

Yeah!
They weigh about 5lbs more than I!

Flying J · « **Reply #23 on:** October 22, 2010, 01:17:00 PM »

I did the same thing to get the motor out of my 550, but i used rachet straps to the rafters and then just rolled the bike away. Works great.

MoMo · « **Reply #24 on:** October 22, 2010, 03:37:26 PM »

Necessity is the mother of invention -compliments to you

Seeparkfly · « **Reply #25 on:** October 01, 2011, 03:38:29 PM »

What a great way to handle the engine. I've been searching for a way to remove it, this way looks totally doable for me.

Ewan 500K1 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 03, 2013, 04:34:48 AM »

and for completeness, the on its side method .... best used when the frame is bare.

This is installing the engine on a CB500/4 , removal is just the reverse procedure. Same procedure can be used on the 400, 650 and 750

1. Remove sump, oil strainer, oil filter housing, breather cover and exhaust studs from the engine (photo 1)

2. Sit the engine on its side , kickstart side down . This is imporatnt it doesn't work as well if the engine is the other way up. (photo 2)

3. Lower the frame over the engine and install the two lower engine bolts (photos 2 & 3)

4. Have some blocks of wood in place to roll the frame / engine aassembly onto in upright position. The wooden blocks should be positioned to avoid the side stand bracket (photos 4 & 5)

You might want to protect the frame's paintwork by wrapping it in bubble wrap or similar before you start

hondamad · « **Reply #27 on:** April 13, 2016, 05:01:11 AM »

Thats the way i do it very easy

zammykoo · « **Reply #28 on:** April 13, 2016, 02:48:43 PM »

Cool! I was thinking of building a cheap wooden frame in the same shape as your setup.

richmagee7 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 24, 2017, 07:26:37 PM »

Bill K's method worked absolutely great for me. Took the engine out with bike on its side but that was with the help of 4 other people. Bike was assembled and had no help for reinstall. I used small furniture dollys, 6$ harbor freight ones, with wood blocks on top and jack stands above that. Hung the motor with ratchet straps as Bill K did but from a 2x4. Taped up the frame with rags. Once motor was at the right height, it was sitting in the frame in 15 minutes and that was taking my time. I had left the exhaust flanges on which makes it pretty tight. I also had ground down the tab sticking up on the lower frame bolt location on the right side of frame per Hondaman's suggestion. Loved this method.

gary p. · « **Reply #30 on:** April 02, 2019, 04:30:32 AM »

A great solution. I think you just saved me a bunch of money I can spend on other upgrades. My chiropractor will just have to find another patient.

fireman1073 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 04, 2019, 06:23:58 AM »

j hook setup, easy to make or have made and in my case i used my car lift

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Author Topic: Engine Install How to - with pics (Read 23405 times)

co425

buckeye74

traveler

DocVile

redbullssg

THE DUDE