Topic: A few rookie questions

[ForLackOfBetterWords]

I think Camn is on the right track.  The spacer in Camn's pictures is quite a bit bigger than the spacer on my bike.  I scooped an used axle and spacer off the bay on yesterday.  Shipping from Omaha, NE so I'm gonna have a few days until it arrives.

So to kill time until it gets here I'm gonna attack my bike with a torque wrench.  Today I hit everything on the Clymer Tightening Torques table except for the Steering Stem Nut, Swing Arm Pivot and the Engine Hanger Bolts.  I was pretty pleased with what I found as only the Handlebar Holder wasn't tight enough to pass the Clymer torque specs.

I was a little confused when I got to torquing the Front Axle Bolt.  I torqued the Front Fork Axle Holder but didn't see a bolt to be torqued on the front axle.

Anyway, I've got new plugs but no wrench so a trip to into town for tools will be needed soon.  I need a plug wrench and a thickness gauge before I can check my valve tappets.  Any tips I should know before taking a swing at adjusted my valves?

[cameron]

So .. the front axel bolt is difficult to hit with the wheel ON the bike.. in that the Hex part is INSIDE the fork.


You can see on the right side here (bike's left) it is a big long thing, which kind of hides just inside the fork.

[ForLackOfBetterWords]

My axle shipped yesterday.  Just spent a few minutes outside checking torques and such.  Squeezed half a tube of grease into the swing arm.  Old stuff was red and funky.  Got the battery on the charger, gonna warmer her up a little latter this afternoon and change out the oil and filter.

Been entertaining the idea of checking my valve clearances.  Went as far as opening up all the valve peepholes and removing the timing cover.  Those peephole covers were on tight!!!  The number 2 exhaust was a bear.  Kinda scary considering Clymer has the tightening torques at 8-10lbs.  I fiddled with my feeler gauge but I am not yet confident enough with my readings to make any adjustments.

Pics and question:


Which one of these is the TDC mark?  I can always pull a plug and drop in a chop stick, turn the crank and watch for the stick to stop moving up.  Just wondering if anybody has anything to weigh in with.


The PO wasn't BSing about the Dyna.



Nevermind the Mopars in the background.

Sam

[Bob750]

Don't know if it was mentioned above, but when my 750 went to the shop the first time, they told me that the lateral play was due to a worn-out swingarm bushing. Replaced it. Awesome.

[TwoTired]

Camn is right on track.
The K rear wheel/spacer are different from the F models.  Not sure, but I think the swing arm width is different.  Anyway I couldn't get them to interchange.

It looks like someone adapted a K rear wheel to your F model.  (...and rather badly.  If you get the chance, slap them and ask, "What were you thinking"?)

You may need F spacers on both sides of the wheel for it to work out right.  You may also need an F rear wheel,  but I am not certain of that.

Cheers,

[xenoscr]

So to kill time until it gets here I'm gonna attack my bike with a torque wrench.  Today I hit everything on the Clymer Tightening Torques table except for the Steering Stem Nut, Swing Arm Pivot and the Engine Hanger Bolts.  I was pretty pleased with what I found as only the Handlebar Holder wasn't tight enough to pass the Clymer torque specs.

Great news, better safe than sorry. Hope your new axle resolves your loose wheel.

XeNoSCR