Topic: Anyone change their own tires?

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

I ordered two tires from the local shop and picked them up. The usual scenerio is I bring my wheels up and pay 25 bucks each for a mount. This time I took the tires home and stopped on the way to buy two irons.

I was mighty proud of myself when, after about 4 hours, I had both tires swapped. Went to the gas station, aired them up and was livid when they both started hissing. Neither tube holds air. I was as careful as I could be not to pinch them. Is anyone here doing this successfully themselves? I think 50$ for about five minutes of work isn't fair. Of course now I'm out probably 40$ for tubes...

[Duke McDukiedook]

Tires are one of the few things I leave to other people.
Too easy to muck up a rim, tube, you name it.
Money well spent if you ask me.

[Gordon]

Tires are one of the few things I leave to other people.
Too easy to muck up a rim, tube, you name it.
Money well spent if you ask me.

+++++++1

Considering that it doesn't have to be done all that often, and it only costs me 20 bucks a rim, it's more than worth it to me to pay the shop to do it. 

[vanillagorilla]

Yeah, better to leave that stuff to the pros. You can pinch a tube with irons and it may not leak for a day or so, maybe when you are riding... I know when I was @ school there was a 3 wk class regarding tires and wheels and I mounted and dismounted probably 40-50 tires, nevermind all the practice you get in the field... Tubes make mag wheels look good! So much easier...

[Hasenkopf]

Ive been doing mine for years, after learning  on an old dirt bike.    wouldn't let someone else do it now....

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

I like to have them professionally balanced when they are mounted. I have pinched tubes and scratched chrome and been left with unbalanced tires when done myself.

[Franken750]

Used to ride a lot of enduros once.

Had to be able change a tyre/tube in 3 mins (engine-off to engine-on and back in gear) to remain compettitive, so I used to practice in the driveway, fully decked out in riding gear etc.

Sidestand only. Hot engine and exhaust. Use only the tools you carry. 6" tyre irons. Hand pump.

4.50x18 Trellborg knobby. Rimlocks to prevent tyre spinning inside rim. Inner tube.

Got down to just under 4 mins but then I didn't have a quick release wheel.

Family and career interrupted all that so I never did make it to the ISDT. 

[Franken750]

Went to the gas station, aired them up and was livid when they both started hissing. Neither tube holds air.

I was as careful as I could be not to pinch them.

Is anyone here doing this successfully themselves?

I think 50$ for about five minutes of work isn't fair. Of course now I'm out probably 40$ for tubes...

Yes, and I forgot ... sprinkle a little talc powder all over the inner tubes as you push them inside the tyre. Then partially inflate the inner tube - only just enough for it to almost fill out. Use a bicycle pump.

This and the powder lets the tube move around and not get pinched by the tyre iron. Big tyre irons 12-15"  are fatal as they're too thick at the flattened end. Use 5-6" irons (the flattened ends should be about the thickness of the handle on a large spoon or fork). You'll be gobsmacked how easy it really is.

Cheers

/Franken

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

crap, i was using two 24" irons i got at harbor freight. that might be the culprit.

[Grnrngr]

I learned way back when on bicycles, then graduated to dirt bikes, street bikes, then car tires. Don't know how many car tires I've done with just a couple jack handles. I thought the bike tire irons I had were about 18" but don't have them anymore, so I'll have the shop do the next one for me. A patch kit will save you a bunch of money on those tubes. Never really worried about balancing, they never really seemed out of balance. As long as there's a little weight opposite the air valve, the tires themselves are a lot less prone to "balance" issues than a car tire.

[wildcatmahone]

I guess as with most things it's all about technique when changing tires (manually). That being said Harbor Freight sells a motorcycle wheel changer that's of good value. The only downside I heard is that they mar alloy rims fairly easily and modifications need to be made where it clamps the rim.

[ealanm]

I had a bad experience last time I changed tires at the dealer.  They bent the bead on the front rim and scratched the finish on the rear rim.  It was the only work I ever had done by someone else, and I'll never make that mistake again.  Not yet sure how I'll do the balancing, though.

[the architect]

I did mine a few weeks ago.  First time for me to do any tires other than bicycle tires.  I started out working with those same 24" Harbor Freight irons you have.  The rear went good -- didn't pinch it.  I used some corn starch on the tube to keep it happy and glass cleaner on the tire bead for lube.  The front was a different experience entirely    Same approach (at first).  Long story short, I pinched 3 tubes, bought 2 new (smaller) tire irons and still ended up taking it to my local guy at the end    

I'd try it again, though - I'm dumb like that    My local bike guy's advice was to start and finish the bead at 90 degrees from the valve stem.  I kept starting right at the valve stem and working around.  I'd also try the suggestion mentioned above of partially inflating the tube to help keep it out of the way and definitely some thinner irons.  As far as protection of the rim goes, this was helpful (too bad I discovered it too late for my own benefit   ):  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pfp2Z9k0n0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AerHAYs435s&feature=related

[le_sterls]

Helped my buddy change his front tire on a '73 cb350. I'm buying new tires rather soon, after that hassle, I've no problem taking it to the shop. Especially considering my rims are in good shape. I'd feel miserable marking em' up with an iron.

[Brown Bomber]

     I started changing my own tires 4 years ago, after buying a tire changer from Harbor Freight. The only time I had a problem was when my air little compressor didn't have enough punch to seat the bead on a radial tire. I have a bigger air compressor now. I covered the rim clamps with duct tape to protect the wheels. Tube tires are a piece of cake with the Harbor Freight changer. Well worth the hundred or so bucks, it's paid for it's self already.
     Bike shops around here charge about $25.00 to mount and balance a tire, (if you bring them the wheel off the bike) plus a $2.00 tire disposal fee. Car shops don't seem to have a problem mounting and balance for free w/purchase.
     As for balancing, Static Balance works fine. I simply put the axle back through the wheel, and put it between 2 automotive jack stands, then give it a gentle spin, and the heaviest side will be at the bottom when the wheel stops, then temporarily tape a weight to the rim at the top, then repeat until the wheel stops just about anyplace, then secure the weights.
     Surely someone will chime in, and proclaim that this method is not accurate enough to be safe, and their right, if you're doing 160mph down the back straight at Daytona! chances are your barely getting over the ton on your 40 yr old SOHC. Just keep in mind that many motorcycles were successfully road raced on static balanced tires long before computer balance machines where invented, they just used a better wheel stand than my make shift jack stands.   
     I've seen a many tires with a lot of weights on them, then see the balance dot nowhere near the valve stem. That little balance dot is the lightest part of the tire's carcass, and should be located next to the valve stem, The heaviest part of the wheel. I have 3 bikes in my garage right now, and only 2 of those 6 wheels have any weights at all, and all have been well above the legal speed limit on the interstate with no problems.
 

[Rio_CB750]

I braved it after watching scudman's video, and with two motion pro longer than normal tire irons, I did the job and it worked well.  The front tire took less than 10 min, the back tire about 30 min all told.

I put down a thick pad of cardboard and did it on grass in the back yard.  My suggestion is to use plenty of lubrication 
I used about half/half dish soap and water, and inflate the tubes slightly, as my new tires seemed to be squashed flat, and that's the technical term.

[faux fiddy]

I help a friend do his several times.

+1  talc
+1 on a bit of ir in the tube, it helps keep it out of the way.

A piece of plastic (coolant jug) between the tool and the rim helps prevent he rim from being damaged.

Get someone to help stand on the tire and step around on it as you work your way around.

[xenoscr]

I changed my own tires, I'd rather do it myself because I can. Last time I changed them I did it in the dead of winter, the rubber was so friggin' hard I had a hell of a time. But I did it. I also used talc on the tubes and partially inflated them before tucking in the second lip. I used piece of jug to protect the rims as well, learned that from the video posted above, it also helps to keep you from pinching the tubes. When changing cold tires, the longer irons give you the leverage you need, the 6" irons would never have worked under those conditions.

XeNoSCR

[754]

 You guys must be doing a few things wrong..

 First off what works well, is a medium metal drum, that is smaller than the inside of the rim, pad it with heavy rag or blanket. Tabletop works too if its low but wheel will flop around (not so good).

 I dont use talc or any powder, but I do use Ru-Glyde.. still drawing from a jug I bought in the 80s or 90s..

 I use medium length irons.. around 10 inches long, solid bar. Some forged ones that are thinner in middle are bendy.. crap.

 Dress your ends, check em all the time, clean up with sandpaper.. they MUST be free of burrs.

 As far a scratching, the majority of the work occurs on rim edge, and is covered by the rubber when tire is mounted.

 You must understand that BOTH Beads must be near middle, ie lowest part of rim as you start to pull on the last 1/3 of the bead.. this is the MOST IMPORTANT part.

 As I start an iron I try to get my finger under or visually check that tube is out of the way as you start.. then slide it to next position.. pushing tube out of the way..

 Also NEVER tighten the stem nut so tube is drawn tight, not for install, not for running.. after tire is aired up double nut and leave at least 1/4 clearance to rim..IMPORTANT!!

 Also.... most new tires go on fairly easy, in fact I can get at least 1/2 of them on WITHOUT tire irons.. use a soft hammer.. Never pinched a tube with the hammer..

[ealanm]

I'd feel miserable marking em' up with an iron.

Not as miserable as you'll feel when the shop mangles them.

[754]

Food for Thought..
 Seeing as some here have jobs, and very little time to go on long rides..................................................

  Do you want to lose 3hrs to a day, if you get a flat..?

 Or get it fixed in less than a hour, and enjoy your ride/day.??

 3 hours on the side of the road counting cars, gets old quick..even worse if you run out of beer..

[sangyo soichiro]

I'd feel miserable marking em' up with an iron.

Not as miserable as you'll feel when the shop mangles them.

I agree.  If you have a professional do it, then you should get professional results.  Nothing bugs me more than getting it back to see that they buggered it.

I had a shop put on a rear tire on my CB.  Once I got it home, I noticed a shallow cut about 6 inches long that ran along the tire.  Looks like it got there when they cut the wrapping off the tire or something.  Anyway, why am I paying top dollar for a cut tire?   

Boofers!   

[le_sterls]

I'd feel miserable marking em' up with an iron.

Not as miserable as you'll feel when the shop mangles them.

This is true. Although, considering it is there job, I'd hope that they'd handle it somewhat delicately. Hopefully they don't have that mentality of "good enough for gov't work." Probably wouldn't hurt to leave a tip beforehand either.  

[Brown Bomber]

Food for Thought..
 Seeing as some here have jobs, and very little time to go on long rides..................................................

  Do you want to lose 3hrs to a day, if you get a flat..?

 Or get it fixed in less than a hour, and enjoy your ride/day.??

 3 hours on the side of the road counting cars, gets old quick..even worse if you run out of beer..

Well here's some more food to chew on;
Seeing as some have lost their jobs in the light of this great economy, gas money for long rides is not an option, and saving money by doing your own work is key.
plus;
Some of us don't trust shops, and for good reason.

Some of us can mount tires and take pride in our work.

Some of us know from experience that taking wheels to a shop for fresh sneakers will take at least 3 hours, even with an appointment. Not to mention your time pulling, and remounting the wheels. Leaving your bike there will likely take even longer, and you'll have to work out transportation to and from the shop.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

There's lots of good advice in this thread, learned some things I hand't heard from 754. I'll try it again. The wheels are at the shop though, I just need to have this particular bike done asap. But next time I'll do it and get it right. I think technique is especially important with tires, man handling will do you no favors. But I don't see why it couldn't be done at home by any of us.