Author Topic: powder coating brake masters....? (Read 5296 times)

jaguar · « **on:** May 30, 2010, 11:32:23 AM »

has anyone powder coated their brake masters?
im running the stock rear on my 76 cb750F and a CBR600F2 front
the front has a small sight window in it and it feels like a plastic and im not sure that it would hold up to the heat of coating
so my two questions are
1-anyone know how to remove that window?
2 will powder coat hold up on a brake master?
ive heard some say that its fine but others say the brake fluid eats the coating

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #1 on:** May 30, 2010, 12:20:58 PM »

Brake fluid eats..............anything.......Thats why the master-cylinders are anodized.

jaguar · « **Reply #2 on:** May 30, 2010, 12:47:20 PM »

why would it be worse on the master then on the calipers?
i can understand if you didnt wipe off fluid that was spilled but why do people have a problem with masters?

dsimmonds53 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 30, 2010, 12:57:56 PM »

I did my front brake and it's holding up just fine. Bled the brakes and spilled some fluid. Wiped it off and the caliper is just as shiny as day one.
Go fo it.

Patrick · « **Reply #4 on:** May 30, 2010, 01:04:06 PM »

I have powder coated brake masters and I have had good luck with it. It is true that brake fluid can damage powder coat, especially if you spill from the master before the powder coat has a change to properly season. But the only time I had an issue with it was when I had real issues getting a brake system to work and I spilled brake fluid on a freshly powder coated master a lot and I wasn't diligent about wiping it off immediately. It didn't fade the powder coat or melt it immediately, but i tsat on it a while and melted it so when I did get around to wiping it off.

Powder coat and let it season at least a couple days. Then wipe off any spilled brake fluid immediately - like you had just dripped it on paint - and you should be OK.

BTW, it is better if you are doing the powder coating yourself so if you mess it up you can do it again.

Can't help with the plastic window except to say you will be baking the powder coat at as much as 400 degrees. You can't powder coat plastic and I don't know when the melting/warping temperature is on that window (or its seals).

Patrick

co425 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 30, 2010, 01:27:59 PM »

Flush your system and use dot 4 instead of 3. 4 won't eat anything.

jaguar · « **Reply #6 on:** May 30, 2010, 02:21:25 PM »

the system is 100% empty right now. rebuilding and coating the calipers. so thats why i started thinking about having the masters done to....its funny how this stuff snowballs...lol

the bike is not ready for the road yet so letting the powder set for a while is no problem

guess im going to have to figure how this window comes out.

psykod · « **Reply #7 on:** May 30, 2010, 03:58:36 PM »

I powdered coated my MC Black 2 years ago and it still looks pretty good.

Ichiban 4 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 05, 2010, 11:34:47 PM »

Quote from: psykod on May 30, 2010, 03:58:36 PM

I powdered coated my MC Black 2 years ago and it still looks pretty good.

_________________________________________________________

Ditto on letting the powder coat season for a few days before filling with brake fluid. Also..if spilled and wiped off immediately..it does little damage. But if the reservoir is leaky or fluid sits for any length of time..it starts lifting the powder coat.

I've had it on my MC for several years..and following those guidelines..it still looks as good as new.

Ichi

eurban · « **Reply #9 on:** June 06, 2010, 07:25:30 AM »

Quote from: co425 on May 30, 2010, 01:27:59 PM

Flush your system and use dot 4 instead of 3. 4 won't eat anything.

I don't think this is correct. DOT 3 and 4 are essentially compatible and I think that both share a paint eating chemistry. DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is a totally different animal and does not eat paint. It is also not compatible with 3 and 4 and the system must be meticulously cleaned . . .

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #10 on:** June 06, 2010, 08:35:40 AM »

4 will still eat paint.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #11 on:** June 06, 2010, 09:15:32 AM »

I powder coated my caliper, the disc center and arm due to the leaking seal which allowed the DOT 4 to remove paint. I cleaned the system really well and used DOT5 so as to not have to do this again. No problem with coating and DOT5. I coated my fork lowers while I was at it. It all looks nice. As Ichi says I'd expect powder coat to last better than paint but it will still come off if you're not careful with DOT3 or DOT4.

jaguar · « **Reply #12 on:** June 06, 2010, 09:22:55 AM »

since everything will be cleaned for coating and im installing new lines i think ill go with the DOT5 fluids

thanks for the help

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #13 on:** June 06, 2010, 10:06:32 AM »

If you are going to go to DOT 5 you'll want to clean everything out with some type of mineral spirits or solvent and completely flush the system- basically means a rebuild.

You do not want DOT 3 or 4 to come into contact with any DOT 5.

Bad things happen.

jaguar · « **Reply #14 on:** June 06, 2010, 10:14:45 AM »

everything is apart for rebuild and coating so i think that ill be ok.

co425 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 06, 2010, 11:54:15 AM »

Quote from: Dukiedook on June 06, 2010, 08:35:40 AM

4 will still eat paint.

Sorry I did mean dot 5 silicone.

jaguar · « **Reply #16 on:** June 06, 2010, 03:02:09 PM »

ive been reading a little.....
with new oem seals is dot5 safe to run?

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #17 on:** June 06, 2010, 09:09:57 PM »

Yes, but really the only advantage of running 5 is it won't eat paint.

jaguar · « **Reply #18 on:** June 07, 2010, 05:42:00 AM »

well thats a big pluse to me.
just dont want to have it eat the rubber seals in the system

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Author Topic: powder coating brake masters....? (Read 5296 times)

co425

co425