Topic: Sealant on drain plug?

[Scott S]

 Is it OK to use any type of sealant on the drain plug? My CB500 only has two small leaks: the O-ring on the end cap of the valve cover (sourcing new O-rings now) and a minor drip from the drain plug.
 The P.O. wrapped teflon tape around the drain plug, but it just seems to bunch up around the top threads. I have red and blue lok-tite, but I obviously want to remove this plug from time to time.
 How about this stuff? The tube says it chemical resistant and to use alcohol to remove it.

[Johnie]

You should not need sealant if you have the crush washer in place. Many times the crush washer gets lost in the oil pan and the previous owners never knew it was there. Hence, leaking oil drain plug. Keep in mind I am speaking in terms of the CB750 so I am just assuming your drain plug is the same style. I was not sure of the year, but the CB500 parts finder I looked at shows there should be a crush washer there.

[GammaFlat]

Not sure if this is the size or not (M14)?: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?displayName=OilDrainPlugGasket&itemId=1545-10&navValue=101545&parentId=1312-10&productId=129575&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=129575_0_0_&filterByKeyWord=oilplugwasher&categoryNValue=101312&store=2548&skuDisplayName=1/2in.doubleoversize,9/16in.orM14aluminumoildrainpluggasket&categoryDisplayName=Oil,Fluid,LubricationandTools&_requestid=2000193

Also... I bought a package of nylon ones from Autozone.... haven't tried them yet. 

[Scott S]

 How do you use a crush washer when there's no collar or lip on the drain plug, like in the picture? Is that the correct drain plug?

[Scott S]

 Hmmm, looking at the pics in the manual, it appears there's more of a bolt for the drain plug. That plug I have must be something the P.O. put on there.
 Any reason I can't take it to Pep Boys or Lowe's and find a bolt with the matching thread and some crush washers?

[Johnie]

Correct, the PO put that plug in there. He probably rounded the old one off because he put it in to tight. You should have the lip on the drain bolt like in the parts picture. If you have an owners manual you will see it there too. These are still available from Honda, but if you can get one from Autozone that should be good too.

[Scott S]

 I've already got mine back in the bike so I can start it up and synch the carbs. I planon changing the oil and filter right after break in and I'll change the bolt then.

 Two Q's:
 A) Do you know the bolt size and pitch so I can look for one before the next oil change?

 B) Was the factory plug magnetized? I've seen many drain plugs that have a magnetic tip to collect shavings in the sump?

[Johnie]

Forget Autozone and get it from your Honda dealer. Then you are set to go and the problem will be solved. Or, post your need on the parts wanted area of this board. The bolt is not magnetized.

[scottly]

Hopefully that tapered thread pipe plug didn't damage your threads too much...

[ekpent]

That plug you have looks like just an ordinary American plumber plug. I wonder if the PO maybe has retapped the old threads in the pan to accept it. Better check it out first before you buy the correct metric bolt and washer.

[Johnie]

Here is a pic of what you are looking for. That washer looking thing you see under the head is part of the bolt. That is the area the crush washer seats too.

[medic09]

And when you put in the new plug, make sure to *only* hand tighten it.  It does *not* need to be torqued.  The oil pans are cast aluminum.  Torque that bolt even a smidgen too tight, and the pan is likely to break off right around the threads.  Don't ask how I know...   (There's an old thread about it somewhere...)

[Scott S]

 I'll find out next oil change. I found one in stock at the local Honda dealer. Only $1.99.

[medic09]

Don't forget to use a fresh crush washer.  Also a penny item, but can save a lot of aggravation.  Don't install the bolt with no washer at all.

[Scott S]

 Right, got the bolt and a new washer from the dealer. They keep the washers as a bulk item.

[chickenman_26]

Right, got the bolt and a new washer from the dealer. They keep the washers as a bulk item.

My hunch is the PO stripped out the original threads, so he crammed that pipe plug in the hole and mangled the original threads, or what was left of them. Your new drain plug probably won't even screw in, or it'll strip out as soon as you try to torque it down. You could try to Helicoil it or install a TimeSert, but chances are you'd get the thread angle off slightly, and the bolt head wouldn't meet up flush with the oil pan. If it were mine, I'd reinstall the pipe plug for now, and get a good used oil pan from eBay to install at the next oil change. Changing the pan is an easy job after draining the oil. The cam end cap O rings are Honda # 91319-323-000 (6x3 mm). I'd bet your local dealer can get them for you.

Stu

[Scott S]

 I actually found some O-rings and washers at Lowe's that fit and stopped the leak at the cam end.
 I used that sealer pictured above on the threads of the pipe nipple and stopped that leak, too. I'll see how the threads look in the pan on the next oil change. Right now, the bike is leak free. Wish me luck!

[chickenman_26]

I'll see how the threads look in the pan on the next oil change.

Yes, you certainly will. Think about this - if the threads were any good, would the PO have run a pipe plug in there? That plug probably has 1/4-18 NPT threads. They're tapered, and not the correct pitch. Have this cleaned up and ready for your next oil change, and your issue will be fixed, not patched. Just saying...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/73-HONDA-CB500-CB550-CB-500-550-Oil-Pan-Engine-Cover-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea6643a5aQQitemZ200360082010QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories