Topic: To replace the clutch, or not? Need some advice

[adamb]

So, the clutch on my '81 CB650 custom feels a little soft.

If it is in gear, any gear, with the clutch fully engaged (or put another way, the lever is all the way out) it won't slip.  Pouring on the power doesn't make the clutch slip.

If I'm shifting - from third to fourth, fourth to fifth, etc - if I don't time it right, or drop the clutch, it will slip.  I don't usually let it 'roar' and keep on slipping, I'll roll back on the throttle, let it engage, and then go about my business.

I went to the local Honda shop, and they asked me if the oil smelled 'burnt' or anything - I can't tell. I've got a powerful nose, but I don't smell anything different about the oil (nor would I know how to smell a burnt clutch when it's oil-bathed.)   They told me that I needed the SJ oil ($7.75 a quart!) and that it would help out the clutch. 

It did, to some extent.  It slips less, but it still slips.  If I go from one gear to another, (say, fourth to fifth), rev the engine, and drop the clutch, it'll slip a little and then settle in.  (I haven't really poured on the gas yet; long story short - I popped out my dipstick on the ride to work, lost some oil, and didn't want to 'push things') 

Also, there's no clutch particles in my oil that I can find.

So, the question is, should I just spent the $70 on a clutch, or should I give it 'more time' before my clutch starts acting normally? In all the motorcycles I've owned, the other clutches would drop the engine's RPMs in an instant (or scratch the tires) if I dropped the clutch, no slippage. 

I don't really feel like spending $7.75 a quart on oil (and I'm not sold on the "You need SJ oil in your motorcycle" argument) but I don't want to ride around on a bad clutch either, simply waiting for it to disintregate on me and ruin my engine.  I can probably swap out the clutch in no time whatsoever, having done a few before -but I just don't want to waste money and have my wife take a pound of flesh.

[Gordon]

Have you tried adjusting the clutch?  I'm talking about the actual clutch, not just the cable. 

[dave500]

as gordon said adjust the primary clutch adjustment,if it still slips,either its worn or wearing out and the springs may be getting a little soft by now.

[Hush]

Back all your adjustments right off, wind the handlebar clutch lever cable adjuster back to zero and then dive below and slacken the clutch cable at the activating lever under the righthand engine cover.
Now unscrew your clutch adjustment cover off (big screw thing in middle of clutch cover) lossen the locking nut then hold it with a #10 open ended spanner and wind the middle screw out a few turns.
Screw the screw back in until it just touches the clutch pressure plate, back it of a smidgen and retighten the locking nut.
Now go through your cable adjustments again starting from the bottom and working your way back up the the handlebar lever.
Sorry if I'm preaching to the converted but if this doesn't work you can toss your clutch away.

[adamb]

The clutch cable is brand new; the old cable had some serious holes and rust in it. 

The clutch adjustment (removing the one cover hole) and adjustment: Already done. I looked that up here a week or two ago and made that adjustment; the clutch, when 'let out', is completely let out, and completely engaged. I've also fiddled with the the handles and other adjusters.

Clutch springs are $10; I can swallow that, but I don't know if I should do that, tear the side off, change the oil, only to findo ut the springs were more or less fine, but the plates are too worn.

I suppose I can order some springs today at the honda shop, since I'll be there anyway - and see how those go.

What's the allowance for the clutch plates? I've got a micrometer, I'll measure them a bit when I am taking off the springs. Also, what's the torque values for the spring bolts (I haven't taken apart this clutch, but my Yamaha XS650 had required torque).  I'm also going to assume I should use locktite...