Topic: My Rickman Engine cases. To clear or not to clear...

[phactory]

That is the question!  

Spent the better part of yesterday being a dirty case polisher!   But the results were so worth it! Should I clear them now? What is the consensus? Is clear out of a spray bomb good enough?

Phil

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

I wouldn't do it. I tried "Eastwood Diamond Clear for bare metal surfaces" in the spray can on my front hub after cleaning and polishing. I wiped the hub with acetone, let dry then sprayed. I noticed a place on it, picked at it and it peeled right off. I got the whole hub peeled by hand. Really pissed. Eastwood is supposed to be one of the best. Powder coat clear would be the best choice but I haven't seen any testimonials here. The pieces get baked before coating to sweat out and burn off any residual that has soaked into the aluminum.

[phactory]

Jerry,

 Thanks, the jury is still out but if I do, do it, I will wash them in the sink with lots of hot soapy water and then blow them off with my air compressor. Then I will bake them in the oven so that they are at least 200F, and then spray them. If I use anything, the POR 15 Glisten PC is probably the leading candidate.

Thanks, Phil

[Simon]

There is always the SPRAYMAX 2K clear I keep hearing about. Never used the product myself. I am debating on spraying my polished parts also. Will read this thread with interest.

A link to the product  http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

Simon

[phactory]

Simon,

 I will check this stuff out. As with most anything, the preparation is the key!

Thanks, Phil

[ekpent]

I have sprayed some Dupont 380-S cleat coat on aluminum from my spray gun years ago and held up well.Did not do a valve cover-high heat item though.Clutch case block parts OK.

[seaweb11]

I wouldn't do it. I tried "Eastwood Diamond Clear for bare metal surfaces" in the spray can on my front hub after cleaning and polishing. I wiped the hub with acetone, let dry then sprayed. I noticed a place on it, picked at it and it peeled right off. I got the whole hub peeled by hand. Really pissed. Eastwood is supposed to be one of the best. Powder coat clear would be the best choice but I haven't seen any testimonials here. The pieces get baked before coating to sweat out and burn off any residual that has soaked into the aluminum.

Similar experience here.
When I restored my CL350 I cleared all the shiny bits. It turned flaky and pitted looking within a year.
I just finished using paint remover to get rid of the mess that it had become over 3 years. Not a fun job considering it was unnecessary
Don't do it !

[co425]

I use the High temp ceramic engine enamel clear from Duplicolor. So far so good not an issue with it at all. It is a little delicate. Just dont scrape a wrench across it and it will work fine.

How about powder coat clear. If you dont coat it with something you will have a nightmare hand polishing them all the time.

[Simon]

For what it's worth, I put a few coats of car wax on the polished parts this spring. Don't know if it will preserve the shine or not but thought I'd give it a try...

S.

[Alan F.]

Anyone have experience with zoopseal?   

This stuff would seem to be a viable alternative to paint or powder, since they won't adhere to polished surfaces very well to begin with.
-Alan

http://www.zoopseal.com/

[co425]

As seen on TV enough said. 

[Alan F.]

Actually I first saw it on a PBS show (forget the name and it's been a few years) ...where they restored a forty something Harley, and later a pre-unit Bonneville.
-A

[markb]

I wouldn't do it. I tried "Eastwood Diamond Clear for bare metal surfaces" in the spray can on my front hub after cleaning and polishing. I wiped the hub with acetone, let dry then sprayed. I noticed a place on it, picked at it and it peeled right off. I got the whole hub peeled by hand. Really pissed. Eastwood is supposed to be one of the best. Powder coat clear would be the best choice but I haven't seen any testimonials here. The pieces get baked before coating to sweat out and burn off any residual that has soaked into the aluminum.

I had a similar experience with the spray can.  Then I tried the Extreme Diamond Clear.  It is very hard and nothing touches it, even aircraft remover.  It's nasty stuff though.  And my covers are more of a satin buff, not mirror polish and it's held up well.  I like the idea of the clear powder coat and I'm going to try it.
Mark

[phactory]

The jury is still out on this one. I know that I am not going to go the clear powder coat route.

Thanks, Phil

[Flathead]

Heh Phil.
PJ1 sells a high temp clear that I used on My Rickman engine covers. No peeling. no yellowing, no problems. Warm and dry before applying works best.

[Bodi]

Gunkote is my recommendation. I've used the original black stuff and it's amazing. There's a newer product available in clear that I haven't used but if it performs like the black I can't see a problem.

[Toxic]

I wouldn't do it ... too many people have not been happy with it.

I would look into:  http://www.sharkhide.com/mpinfo.html

i don't know if it would be applicable for high heat but worth a look.

[phactory]

Flathead,

 Thanks, I have had good luck with PJ1 in the past. I will check it out.

Thanks, Phil

Heh Phil.
PJ1 sells a high temp clear that I used on My Rickman engine covers. No peeling. no yellowing, no problems. Warm and dry before applying works best.

[domer]

just my 2 cents, if you want pretty polished aluminum, then keep polishing. 1 scratch on the clear and things are going to go south, ive polished every aluminum bit that was cleared, and i keep polishing it. a little mothers once every month or two and its good as new. no clear for me!