Author Topic: Kreeming my tank - plugs? (Read 3559 times)

ev0lve · « **on:** October 13, 2009, 08:38:24 AM »

Hey there,

So I ran The Works through my tank and now I have pinhole leaks all over the place. Ordered up a Kreem Kit and it looks pretty straight forward from the instructions.

The only thing I'm wondering is what's best to plug the bung? I can jam something up there but not sure. Should it be a cap so that it coats the inside of the bung as well or a plug that goes all the way through.

I'm thinking cap but thought I'd see if any of you had some experience / best techniques?

Thanks!

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #1 on:** October 13, 2009, 09:06:37 AM »

I used a rubber stopper that fit only part way up the bung hole.

I did not coat my tank but on the F the tank filter fits fairly tight so a coating may have been a problem. Something to check on your tank but I think you have a different petcock so I am not sure.

ColinMc · « **Reply #2 on:** October 13, 2009, 09:16:13 AM »

Maybe you'll have better luck but all 3 tanks I used Kreem in I ended up redoing with the POR15 kit...and it's a pain to get the Kreem all the way out again...

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #3 on:** October 13, 2009, 10:34:42 AM »

From what I have heard from more than a few people Kreem sucks to line your tank.
There are better options.

ev0lve · « **Reply #4 on:** October 13, 2009, 11:18:38 AM »

It's already ordered so I'll give it a try. It's a $30 tank with $40 bucks worth of tank liner. If I have to do it again I think I'll splurge and get a tank in better condition from the get go.

But for now - just try to do my best with the stuff.

So, plug the bung hole for the coating or cap it?

ev0lve · « **Reply #5 on:** October 13, 2009, 11:37:27 AM »

MCRider to the rescue

It takes a 1/2" FIP (Female Iron Pipe) cap <--- How awesome is that - fitting sizes

And fmctm1sw says
BTW, a 47-50mm freeze plug works perfectly as a seal for the gas cap

That's a 550 I believe but the ID should be about the same on the filler (I hope)

ev0lve · « **Reply #6 on:** October 13, 2009, 01:13:26 PM »

From www.kreemproducts.net

What can I use to plug small threaded openings?
Use threaded pipe plugs, rubber stoppers, small wooden dowels, silicone caulking. DO NOT USE duct tape. It doesn’t work.

How do I cover large openings, sending units, petcocks, etc.?
Use a piece of wood or metal large enough to cover the opening. Drill holes to allow the plate to be bolted or screwed onto the tank. Fabricate a gasket out of rubber or gasket material and sandwich between the tank and the plate. Secure to the tank with screws or bolts.

So this sounds like they want the product to cover the inside of the bung, yes?

ev0lve · « **Reply #7 on:** October 13, 2009, 02:22:16 PM »

Well, let this wonder off topic a bit.

Dug up a post on another board about Seafoam acting as a solvent on a Kreem lined tank. True?

If this mix list is correct which of the active ingredients will eat the liner? Rubbing Alcohol? Naptha's just a kerosene derivative?

Seafoam ingredients:
Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), pale oil, and naptha

ColinMc · « **Reply #8 on:** October 13, 2009, 02:26:26 PM »

I'm assuming the alcohol...since ethanol is similar and that's what eats the liners of metal tanks and the fiberglass tanks themselves...

i'm not a chemist though so i'm not sure how closely ethanol and alcohol are related.

ev0lve · « **Reply #9 on:** October 13, 2009, 03:25:44 PM »

Hmmm, their FAQ says

What types of fuel is Kreem compatible with?
We have had Kreem independently tested with ethanol, methanol, alcohol based oxygenated fuels, diesel and hydraulic fluids.

also

Acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (available at most paint stores) will re-dissolve Kreem.

Hmmmm.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #10 on:** October 13, 2009, 03:44:34 PM »

POR15 is an excellent product, but there is nothing wrong with Kreem either, if you follow their instructions, and use your brain. I've seen a few "half arsed" Kreem jobs that have turned to #$%*e, but having used both Kreem and POR15 with 100% success, I can see that POR15 could suffer the same problems that Kreem does, if applied incorrectly.

I actually prefer the Kreem kits cleaning and drying preparatory products, their acid based rust remover does a brilliant job, and once rinsed, their MEK dries the tank completely, before the liner is applied. I Kreemed a Suzuki GS1000 tank and with the leftover product did a Honda XR80 tank, that was 13 years ago, and both tanks (to my knowledge) are still in use, with no problems at all.

If POR15 is not applied to a properly prepared tank, it will suffer the same fate as poorly applied Kreem. As an example, the plastic funnel I used to tip the POR15 into the tank (and to drain off the excess once the tank was coated) was liberally coated with dried POR15, but within days, the POR15 started to lift off, because the funnel's surface was not chemically "etched" as the interior of the tank was. I was able to just peel the POR15 coating off the funnel in big strips, it just feels like thick paint.

Folks who complain about Kreem remind me of that saying, "a poor tradesman always blames his tools". Cheers, Terry.

ColinMc · « **Reply #11 on:** October 13, 2009, 03:53:14 PM »

Point taken, but i'm a details guy and follow directions to the T, especially with paint related products since that's my field...and i've had 3 tanks with problems with Kreem, and none with POR15.

But again, like terry said, no matter what system just make sure you follow the instructions EXACTLY!

The main difference with the POR15 is that it's not just a liner, it's a conversion coating that bonds to the metal in the tank on a chemical level. Kreem is strictly a coating that adheres to the metal level as POR15 liners. If that makes sense...

Think of it this way, POR15 soaks into the metal, while Kreem sits on top. That's an oversimplification of it...but it's the basic point i'm trying to get across.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #12 on:** October 13, 2009, 08:31:54 PM »

Quote from: ColinMc on October 13, 2009, 03:53:14 PM

Point taken, but i'm a details guy and follow directions to the T, especially with paint related products since that's my field...and i've had 3 tanks with problems with Kreem, and none with POR15.

But again, like terry said, no matter what system just make sure you follow the instructions EXACTLY!

The main difference with the POR15 is that it's not just a liner, it's a conversion coating that bonds to the metal in the tank on a chemical level. Kreem is strictly a coating that adheres to the metal level as POR15 liners. If that makes sense...

Think of it this way, POR15 soaks into the metal, while Kreem sits on top. That's an oversimplification of it...but it's the basic point i'm trying to get across.

I gotta agree with you Colin...(sorry Terry!). I have just heard way too many bad things about the Kreem product. Although I hear of the POR-15 as being superior....there are other liner only options (no prep or etch) that are good also. I will continue to shy away from the Kreem treatment for my tank as much as I shy away from Old Bike Barn for anything!!!!.................This is my opinion only based on the many horror stories I have heard!!!

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #13 on:** October 14, 2009, 02:55:44 AM »

Ha ha, no problem Fred, I did say that POR15 is an excellent product, but I have no issue with Kreem either. Cheers, Terry.

birdmannn101 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 14, 2009, 02:23:35 PM »

Plugs eh? I used electrical tape where the petcock attaches. I didn't plug the top of the tank for the following reasons:
1. First application in tank with water and sits overnight VENTED. This stuff builds up pressure.
2. Second application (etcher) should contact lid before Kreeming.
3. Most Important Step - Go out in the woods to do the Kreemer because when it comes out it is hard to clean up. Dumping it in the grass where no one goes is the best way to do this.
4. Remember after Kreeming to vent the tank. Again, no reason to plug cap area.

Scott S · « **Reply #15 on:** June 08, 2010, 07:00:15 AM »

Bringing this thread back instead of starting anew. See, I DO use the search feature!

Couple of Q's:
*Will Seafoam affect RedKote liner?

*Where's a good place to get that freeze plug for the filler neck? I'd like to be able to roll the tank around thoroughly and just don't want any RedKote leaking out of the filler and messing up the paint job.

xenoscr · « **Reply #16 on:** June 08, 2010, 07:18:29 AM »

Quote from: Scott S on June 08, 2010, 07:00:15 AM

Bringing this thread back instead of starting anew. See, I DO use the search feature!

Couple of Q's:
*Will Seafoam affect RedKote liner?

*Where's a good place to get that freeze plug for the filler neck? I'd like to be able to roll the tank around thoroughly and just don't want any RedKote leaking out of the filler and messing up the paint job.

Instead of using the freeze plug you might be able to get away with pulling a rubber/nitrile glove over the filler cap and closing it up. The main thing you want to prevent is the vent hole in the cap getting clogged. I Kreemed my tank with just the filler cap on and learned the hard way that the vent hole was important. After picking the Kreem out of the vent hole I was back in business.

XeNoSCR

Scott S · « **Reply #17 on:** June 08, 2010, 07:52:09 AM »

Right. I had planned on using some foil or plastic or something and taping it up really well. I have a plan for the petcock, too.
My main concern is not spilling anything on the paint and ruining it. That and doing a good job with the RedKote.....

Simpson · « **Reply #18 on:** June 08, 2010, 08:23:21 AM »

I'm doing my CB450 tank this morning which has 4 holes (cap, petcock and two small pipe vents, strange tank). I used a hot melt glue gun to fill all the holes except the fuel cap of course. seems to be holding fine. This is my third tank and I haven't had any issues to date. I've heard from more experienced folks there are better products out in the market like Red-Kote.

Quorthon · « **Reply #19 on:** June 08, 2010, 09:16:19 AM »

Is there a vent hole in the cap on a 72 cb500?

75cb550 (kyle) · « **Reply #20 on:** June 08, 2010, 09:45:28 AM »

i used KREEM on my tank with no issues yet. of course it was a brand new tank at the time... it does seem to get messy. i had some drain out and ontop of the cam plugs... but once it dried it peeled right off..

gmonkey · « **Reply #21 on:** June 08, 2010, 09:59:28 AM »

You're probably all set with the plugs you found already but...

Take an old nitrile or latex glove. Cut two of the fingers off and stick them over the petcock fitting tight. Put a doubled up rubber band or two around the outside to make sure it's tight. Take the rest of the glove, get rid of the remaining fingers, cut the flat part out of it, double it over or get more material from another glove, put it over the filler hole and put a doubled up rubber band or two over that. Just did this last weekend doing POR-15 on my super sport tank. Worked just fine and that's got the recessed filler hole which is more of a pain to seal up.

Used kreem on my old kawasaki ex500 tank and seemed to work fine but I don't think I held on to that bike for even a year afterward so it could have failed spectacularly for all I know.

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Author Topic: Kreeming my tank - plugs? (Read 3559 times)