Author Topic: Carb Tuning Question  (Read 2143 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline campbmic

  • Sea-Foam and Flaming 151 is a dam good
  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 662
Carb Tuning Question
« on: June 11, 2010, 12:05:18 AM »
I have a 1975 CB550k1 with a 4-1 and EMGO pods. I've been working on tuning the pods in and have a question. I set all of the air/fuel mixture screws to 270 degrees out of lightly seated (3 half turns) and went to work with my motion pro tuner. I set the idle to about 1.5k and used the flat head slide adjuster to get all four carbs as close as I possibly could together. I just couldn't quite get them all synched up. Can the A/F mixture screws be used to fine tune the carbs?

When I have the bike revved up from about 2k RPMs onwards the tachometer needle is very steady and the engine sounds smooth. When the engine is at 2k RPMs and below the engine sounds pretty bad and the tachometer needle is quickly vibrating and when its vibrating it covers a range of about 1/4 of an inch.

To adjust this would I use the air/fuel mixture screws on the side of the carbs or would I use the flat head slide adjusting screw?

Thanks
« Last Edit: June 11, 2010, 12:35:20 AM by campbmic »
Its hard to be wrong when you know nothing!

Offline campbmic

  • Sea-Foam and Flaming 151 is a dam good
  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 662
Re: Carb Tuning Question
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2010, 12:31:00 AM »
Thanks TT for the help. I forgot to mention that the needle referred to in my original post is the tachometer needle. My carb tuner is mercury filled. I'm guessing by your response you thought I was talking about a dial gauge carb tuner.
Its hard to be wrong when you know nothing!

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
Re: Carb Tuning Question
« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2010, 12:36:30 AM »
Yes, I didn't understand you were talking about tach bounce.  I'll delete my post.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline campbmic

  • Sea-Foam and Flaming 151 is a dam good
  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 662
Re: Carb Tuning Question
« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2010, 02:02:23 PM »
anyone?
Its hard to be wrong when you know nothing!

Offline johnyvilla

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 516
Re: Carb Tuning Question
« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2010, 02:53:50 PM »
How did it idle before you fit the pods? Could you have cracked an boot in the process? Are your floats adjusted properly, and pilots clean?
Unless you have a clogged passage or worn pilot adjuster screw, you shouldn't have to vary the adjustment between carbs.

Offline campbmic

  • Sea-Foam and Flaming 151 is a dam good
  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 662
Re: Carb Tuning Question
« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2010, 02:20:14 AM »
When I got the bike it had no airbox or pods, since then I have rebuilt then engine and carbs. Floats are set and new idle and main jets. From my understanding you have to synch each individual carb since each pods is different.
Its hard to be wrong when you know nothing!

Offline Bodi

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 5,696
Re: Carb Tuning Question
« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2010, 04:03:13 PM »
It isn't so much about the pods regarding syncing. You want to get the vacuum equal across the four carbs so each cylinder is working equally, this makes the idle as even as possible. With unbalanced carbs the idle is always lumpy since one cylinder will be firing stronger.
In your situation I don't know what the carb tuning has been. Was it ever set up for the pods and you're fine tuning, or did you put them on and are starting from scratch?
Usually pods require a pilot jet one size smaller than stock. The idle and low throttle mixture will be messy without this change if it's needed.
Before doing carbs you must have the ignition timing and valve lash set correctly.
Try to get the carbs synced as close as possible at as low a stable idle as you can get. Don't adjust all four carbs if all are adjustable, I think the 550 has #2 as master and non-adjustable but some racks have all four adjustable. If you adjust all four you screw up the idle, wide open limit, and choke throttle advance settings. Once you have the sync close it may idle better.
Next do plug chops at wide open throttle and RPM in the upper third of the range, this usually means finding a quiet highway. You need to get the correct main jet first. You may be able to get a jet kit with assorted sizes from siriusonline.com or you can guess and get them from Honda. If you're starting from scratch with pods and the plugs look grey go up 4 numbers at first, this should be close. No guarantee.
Next (once you have mains that show a nice brown on chop) try a chop at 3/4 throttle (mark a scale next to the twist grip) and 1/2 throttle. You look at the progression basically. If plugs are browner at 3/4 and blackish at 1/2, you need to drop the needles at least one notch. You may be cursed with one-groove needles, hope not. If they are lighter brown at 3/4 and greyish at 1/2, raise the needles a notch. Repeat until you get brown plugs. Lowering the needle means putting the clip in a groove closer to the blunt end. Naturally you get to re-sync after pulling the needles.
Last you look at 1/4 throttle, probably this will look rich and you need that smaller pilot jet. If it's OK, and you have the sync close, set the screws. Start from the stock setting from your manual and without chaging your idle setting, screw all four out 1/4 turn. If the idle speeds up, screw them 1/4 turn more. repeat until the idle starts to drop and go back to the previous setting. If the idle drops at first, screw them in for the same effect.
Now check sync again. You should be able to set a 1200 RPM idle or so and set the sync to get it purring.
Any problems probably relate to dirty carbs, you have to be really anal about cleaning the things. Make sure the emulsion tubes have clear cross holes especially, the pilot jet should have one attached and the main jet has a separate one "above" it, the needle slides through a hole in the top of the emulsion tube. It should press down and drop out the main jet hole easily with a little push from the bore side.
There are some theories about modifying the emulsion tube by enlarging some of the cross holes, but if you can get the bike running OK without that I think you're good. Clean these tiny cross holes with a soft copper strand from an stranded wire (like the harness wire), not anything harder than the brass they are made of.