Author Topic: 1970 CB750  (Read 13197 times)

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Offline Kevin D

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #50 on: June 17, 2010, 04:13:40 PM »
Heres a pic from the CMS site

http://www.cmsnl.com/

And heres an old thread:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20162.msg209651#msg209651

Looks like I got 0.090" thick on my old ones and Jonesy got 2.3mm on his new ones.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2010, 05:05:02 PM by Kevin D »
71 CB750 K1
108,000 miles
Original Owner
———past———
70 SL100/125/150
70 Candy BlueGreen CB 750 K0
————————————————-
Former Honda parts kid/counter kid/do all
—————————————————————-
Whether you think you can or think you can’t, you’re right
Genius is 99% perspiration, 1% inspiration

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #51 on: June 18, 2010, 08:54:02 AM »
Went to the cmsnl.com website and found a ton of stuff that I don't currently have for the bike. I think I have two routes I can go with this stuff. Either I buy all of the small things that will get my bars on or save it and buy a new wire harness that will help the bike as a whole. I am thinking the harness might be a good decision for now. The bad thing is that even with a new harness, my father-in-law went crazy with other things on the bike and I am not sure that the wires for things like the headlight and signals are in good enough shape either for connection to the new harness. There are wires that I see in the harness and in the things that attach to the harness that, to my knowledge, have no correlation to what I see in the wiring diagram. An example of this would be the motorcycle alarm that he installed on the rear fender. It is basically a license plate holder with the alarm stuff in it. Pretty cool but not sure how that thing is wired up.

I am afraid at this point I am into something I won't be able to finish. I am not sure if the coils are still good or if the rectifier needs replacing. Also, I have found that there is supposed to be a fuse box on this bike but God only knows where that has gone over last 30 years of sitting in a garage. I won't bring myself to get rid of this bike since it is the last chance I have at owning a classic. All I can say for now is that it is going to take a lot of time and money to at least get this thing rideable in a very minimalist way. Meaning, not perfect and not pretty but functional.

If there is anyone in the Dallas area that might be willing to give me some pointers in person, I would be willing to feed them lunch or dinner and have a couple of rounds of brews. I hope I am not asking too much.
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #52 on: June 18, 2010, 06:55:37 PM »
Can someone tell me where the wire in the picture below goes? I think it comes from the starter but not for certain. I will have some other "where does this go?" questions but I will start with this one for now.
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Kevin D

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #53 on: June 20, 2010, 05:25:02 AM »
I'd like to know, what color is the wire underneath the white braid?

The wire gauge looks too small for the starter. The white braid thermal insulation means it runs past the engine. The ring lug suggests neutral switch or oil pressure sender but the ring is way too big for either of those, maybe it was changed along the way. 

Original wiring conforms to a color code, listed in the electrics FAQ.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=1012.msg6586#msg6586
Add on wiring can be a mystery: no color code, no drawing.
71 CB750 K1
108,000 miles
Original Owner
———past———
70 SL100/125/150
70 Candy BlueGreen CB 750 K0
————————————————-
Former Honda parts kid/counter kid/do all
—————————————————————-
Whether you think you can or think you can’t, you’re right
Genius is 99% perspiration, 1% inspiration

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #54 on: June 20, 2010, 06:00:06 AM »
I believe the color of the wire under the braid is blue with a red stripe. I will check it again and report back but I am pretty sure.

Finally figured out my rear drum brake woes. Had the linkage upside down meaning I was pushing the brake rod to the rear wheel instead of pulling it. Plus I forgot to put the spring in the spindle for the brake lever. I will figure this stuff out sooner or later!

Judd
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Kevin D

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #55 on: June 20, 2010, 08:12:23 AM »
Blue/Red- Oil Pressure Signal (Oil Pressure Switch-Indicator Lamp)

The oil pressure sender is the gadget under the curved black rubber cover at the base of the cylinder. The wire goes from the sender through that rubber cover and through the starter compartment. I'm pretty sure it goes into the multi-wire rectangular plastic plug back to the main harness.
71 CB750 K1
108,000 miles
Original Owner
———past———
70 SL100/125/150
70 Candy BlueGreen CB 750 K0
————————————————-
Former Honda parts kid/counter kid/do all
—————————————————————-
Whether you think you can or think you can’t, you’re right
Genius is 99% perspiration, 1% inspiration

Offline 754

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #56 on: June 20, 2010, 08:50:46 AM »
A workshop manual would really help you on most of this stuff..
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #57 on: June 20, 2010, 12:29:30 PM »
I have the original manual for this bike. I have looked at the goofy wire diagram forever trying to figure out where it goes. Finally, I just thought I would ask here since most everyone knows the answers to my silly questions. Now it all comes back to me as to when I removed the wire in the first place. I remember pulling it off of the gadget you mentioned above. I will go out today and get that buttoned up as well as the rear brake assembly.

Thanks for the info and the pic!
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #58 on: June 21, 2010, 02:13:05 PM »
Is it just me or does it seem like the fork tubes are too high in the pictures below? I have looked at other members bikes on here and they don't look this way. Have I done something wrong? It doesn't look right to me but then again what do I know?

Pics attached.
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Johnie

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #59 on: June 21, 2010, 04:17:41 PM »
Yup, way to high. See pic below to see how they should look. Put the top tree on the center steering stem. Then you will see the correct height of OEM fork tubes. Any chance the previous owner put extended fork tubes on there? Click pic to enlarge it.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2010, 04:25:02 PM by Johnie »
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #60 on: June 21, 2010, 06:16:10 PM »
Ugh, I don't need to go about buy new fork tubes now. Father-in-law had it before me and it was a freebie and I think now I am beginning to figure out why. So much stuff on this bike is whacked and hacked then duct taped back together!

Extended fork tubes make complete sense because he had installed some kind of weird fairing and handlebars. He stopped riding the bike in 1983 after he decided to tear it apart. I guess I will go about trying to find the right size fork tubes in the near future.

Thanks for the pics!
Judd
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Johnie

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #61 on: June 21, 2010, 06:37:57 PM »
I took a quick measurement for you. On my K1 the fork tube measured from the bottom of the axle holding bracket to the top of the fork bolt is 31 inches.
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #62 on: June 22, 2010, 07:53:37 AM »
Johnie, it seems that after some looking I realized that the boots on the front forks looks seriously squished. I loosened the bolts below the boots and wiggled the front wheel back and forth. What I got after that was the proper spacing for putting the top bridge on.

I confirmed this before loosening everything by pushing down on the forks and got no play what so ever so I assumed the forks were bottomed out at some point and the F-I-L locked them in place. Doesn't make sense why he would do that but most of the stuff he did doesn't make sense.

Pics attached.
First pic is before I loosened everything and extended the forks.
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #63 on: June 22, 2010, 10:11:26 AM »
On the 1970 K1 is there supposed to be something that connects carbs 2&3 together? I see on 1&4 that there is a small piece of hose that connects the carbs with the one next to it but nothing for 2&3. I looked at both of the manuals I have but they don't have pics of the side that connects to the airbox.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2010, 10:32:44 AM by jbonham »
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Johnie

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #64 on: June 22, 2010, 12:13:17 PM »
Do these pics help you out? There is a small vent tube that is between 1&2 and 3&4. There is also a T shaped fuel pipe between 1&2 and 3&4.
Nothing connects 2&3 together. They are just secured to the plate. Click the pic to enlarge it.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2010, 12:18:26 PM by Johnie »
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #65 on: June 22, 2010, 12:15:12 PM »
that definitely helps although I dont have the piece that attaches the spring that goes in the middle. Do all K1's have that piece? Maybe mine is MIA.
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Johnie

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #66 on: June 22, 2010, 12:17:38 PM »
that definitely helps although I dont have the piece that attaches the spring that goes in the middle. Do all K1's have that piece? Maybe mine is MIA.
Yes, that thing in the middle just seats between 2&3 and is only for the carb return spring. Could probably get one off the "wanted" area of this board.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2010, 12:19:54 PM by Johnie »
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #67 on: June 22, 2010, 12:38:19 PM »
Already looking. Thanks Johnie!
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Johnie

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #68 on: June 22, 2010, 03:01:46 PM »
Already looking. Thanks Johnie!
No problem. It is fun watching you get things going on this K1. The pics are great...
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #69 on: June 24, 2010, 03:15:30 PM »
Johnie, you and I were talking about the return spring for the carb. I took a steel rod and cut it to a length that would work for in between the 2&3 carbs. Once I got the carbs screwed back into the stay plate I went on a hunt for a spring that would work. Well, of course all the ones I had were too long. I cut one but it was such a stiff spring I never could get one end turned out to hook on either end. After a search of the local home improvement store online I think I have found what I need. After a few measuerments I figured a spring that was around 3 1/4 inches would suffice that way I get the stretch that is needed for the throttle control and  to return the carb to its resting position when throttle released. I am going to go tonight or tomorrow and pick up the spring and see if I cant make it work. The fab process wasn't spectacular but I think it would do in a pinch for getting the carbs functional until I find what I need and can either order it or buy one from a member of the forum.

Once I get the spring on I will take some pics and post them up.

Keeping you posted!

Judd
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #70 on: June 25, 2010, 09:08:19 AM »
Got the return spring and hardware ordered from a member on the forum here so I imagine I will have it by late next week sometime. After wanting to fab a piece for the spring I decided it would probably be better to buy the original part since this is an essential part of the bike. Might be a good idea to not screw with being stingy on parts for carbs right? I don't want the carb being stuck wide open if I dont get the fab correct!

Judd
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Johnie

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #71 on: June 25, 2010, 09:35:37 AM »
Got the return spring and hardware ordered from a member on the forum here so I imagine I will have it by late next week sometime. After wanting to fab a piece for the spring I decided it would probably be better to buy the original part since this is an essential part of the bike. Might be a good idea to not screw with being stingy on parts for carbs right? I don't want the carb being stuck wide open if I dont get the fab correct!

Judd
Agree completely Judd!!!
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #72 on: June 26, 2010, 06:25:01 AM »
Ok, I think I am almost ready for an electric test. I will probably be buying a battery this week and putting it in. Carb return spring I have on good faith should be here Monday or Tuesday. One thing I am unsure of though, the fuse box? I have no idea where I would put a fuse box if I had one. The wiring diagram says I need one from what I can tell but after looking at the wiring and such I don't have any clue as to where it might be connected to the harness.

Secondly, I am going to go about buying oil too but was unsure of something to put in the bike for a first run after nearly 30 years. Remember the bike has not run since 1983 so I want to make sure that I don't damage something once I am ready to get it started. Plus it looks as though I will be kicking it "oldschool" since I dont have a starter button yet so I may be in for more than I bargained for.

How large (diameter) is the grounding wire that attaches to the frame?

Let me know!

Judd
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600

Offline Johnie

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #73 on: June 26, 2010, 07:00:00 AM »
Here is a pic of the OEM K1 fuse box still available from Honda. Located under the left side cover. Also a pic of the ground wire about the size of a pencil. Oil recommended by Honda is 10W40. Get a good cycle oil non-synthetic. I wish you luck when it comes time to kick that baby over.
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline jbonham

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Re: 1970 CB750
« Reply #74 on: June 26, 2010, 07:07:20 AM »
Looks as though a fusebox is in order then! Makes me wonder what the F-I-L did with all the parts to this bike!
1971 CB750 K1
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1600