Author Topic: "Hondaman" Transistorized Ignition owners: need your comments, please...  (Read 21775 times)

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Offline Spanner 1

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Hondaman started this thread for comments on his devise which also allows questions about his product. I have no clue as to why you guys are getting mad ( I mean that ).
Let Hondaman answer the question I am asking, you guys have turned it into a sideshow, if HM does not want to answer/bother he can say so here.... that's fine and I'll make my own conclusions, but my Q still stands no matter what any of you post.
If your sure it's a carb problem; it's ignition,
If your sure it's an ignition problem; it's carbs....

Offline HondaMan

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Hondaman I do want one of your ignitions is there somewhere I can go to get it?

Sure, drop me an e-mail at mgparis@concentric.net .
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline ralt12

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I have one of Hondaman's ignitions, and the only thing I can say about it is that it runs infinitely better, starts faster, and I've never had a point where I had an ignition-related issue since I installed it. Leaky carbs, on the other hand, are killing me; no matter what I do, I can't seem to cure them. But the ignition works as advertised, it's really been helpful.

Offline HondaMan

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Hondaman started this thread for comments on his devise which also allows questions about his product. I have no clue as to why you guys are getting mad ( I mean that ).
Let Hondaman answer the question I am asking, you guys have turned it into a sideshow, if HM does not want to answer/bother he can say so here.... that's fine and I'll make my own conclusions, but my Q still stands no matter what any of you post.

Well, Spanner...I'm sorry you aren't an Electrical or Electronics Engineer, or this would be easier.

The essence of what makes the Kettering Ignition system work is actually stored energy, including the energy still stored after the spark discharges. (For those of you who have my book, look into the long-winded, detailed explanation of this in section V, pages 18-23.) For every spark that is discharged, there is still approximately 23% of the power left in the circuit: this is the energy that is used to tune the electronics (quite a bit more than "a transistor switch", BTW)  to control the next coil charge cycle. Careful control of charging rates causes complete charging of the coil, which then produces maximum spark. Short of embarking into electron physics, which left the readers blank last time I tried it here (in 2006), that's about the most succinct explanation I can give you.

DYNA has something that appears similar to Mark's ignition: http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/accessories/Dyna_Boosters/


 Methinks Mark can make similar claims.

Years ago, Dyna made the "Dyna III" ignition, which is a transistorized high-current switch that runs from their Dyna S triggers. Originally, it was intended to run low-ohm primary coils like their 3-ohm "green" coils, as the original Dyna S could not handle them. Some riders simply bought the box itself and installed it, letting the points trigger the transistors: very inventive! It saved points from wear, a lot. Dyna then started marketing their box separately, and apparently still do! Mine has taken the method one step further with the stored charge/rate control coil charging circuitry I added.

Hondaman:

Just wondering... It sounds like you're using a bipolar to switch with (.3v drop). Any thoughts to use a fet with a very low Rds like .015 ohm or so? I use these on my CDI I designed for my 750's and they really are efficient devices.

I considered them, but in the past I have also experienced several problems with FET drives in these apps. Not the least is their temperature sensitivity: at subzero temps (and yes, bikers do ride then) their bias points shift so far that you have to add compensation circuitry, which adds cost and complexity. Then there's the matter of generating a negative-cutoff pulse for the gates: this has always been the Achilles Heel of those devices. If you're in a bipolar power supply it is easy to ensure the negative drive will always be there: if not, it has to be charge-pumped into existence. This is where the failures typically occur after some years pass: the capacitors commonly used to pump these voltages down below gate cutoff change value over time (like the condensors in our bikes) and the cutoff voltage starts rising toward zero, which won't turn off the FET fast enough. As it does, the FET ends up being shut off slower and later in the waveform, which causes it to heat, which changes the channel resistance, and soon the gate barrier begins to migrate away. This causes impedance changes in that gate (especially in junction FETs), which then leaks off more of the pumped gate cutoff pulse, and failure from overheating usually follows.

(Did I mention that I am a professional Electronics Forensics Specialist by trade?).

I'm going out to rebuild some swingarms and relax.  :)
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline axehole54

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Hondaman started this thread for comments on his devise which also allows questions about his product. I have no clue as to why you guys are getting mad ( I mean that ).
Let Hondaman answer the question I am asking, you guys have turned it into a sideshow, if HM does not want to answer/bother he can say so here.... that's fine and I'll make my own conclusions, but my Q still stands no matter what any of you post.

Well, Spanner...I'm sorry you aren't an Electrical or Electronics Engineer, or this would be easier.

The essence of what makes the Kettering Ignition system work is actually stored energy, including the energy still stored after the spark discharges. (For those of you who have my book, look into the long-winded, detailed explanation of this in section V, pages 18-23.) For every spark that is discharged, there is still approximately 23% of the power left in the circuit: this is the energy that is used to tune the electronics (quite a bit more than "a transistor switch", BTW)  to control the next coil charge cycle. Careful control of charging rates causes complete charging of the coil, which then produces maximum spark. Short of embarking into electron physics, which left the readers blank last time I tried it here (in 2006), that's about the most succinct explanation I can give you.

DYNA has something that appears similar to Mark's ignition: http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/accessories/Dyna_Boosters/


 Methinks Mark can make similar claims.

Years ago, Dyna made the "Dyna III" ignition, which is a transistorized high-current switch that runs from their Dyna S triggers. Originally, it was intended to run low-ohm primary coils like their 3-ohm "green" coils, as the original Dyna S could not handle them. Some riders simply bought the box itself and installed it, letting the points trigger the transistors: very inventive! It saved points from wear, a lot. Dyna then started marketing their box separately, and apparently still do! Mine has taken the method one step further with the stored charge/rate control coil charging circuitry I added.

Hondaman:

Just wondering... It sounds like you're using a bipolar to switch with (.3v drop). Any thoughts to use a fet with a very low Rds like .015 ohm or so? I use these on my CDI I designed for my 750's and they really are efficient devices.

I considered them, but in the past I have also experienced several problems with FET drives in these apps. Not the least is their temperature sensitivity: at subzero temps (and yes, bikers do ride then) their bias points shift so far that you have to add compensation circuitry, which adds cost and complexity. Then there's the matter of generating a negative-cutoff pulse for the gates: this has always been the Achilles Heel of those devices. If you're in a bipolar power supply it is easy to ensure the negative drive will always be there: if not, it has to be charge-pumped into existence. This is where the failures typically occur after some years pass: the capacitors commonly used to pump these voltages down below gate cutoff change value over time (like the condensors in our bikes) and the cutoff voltage starts rising toward zero, which won't turn off the FET fast enough. As it does, the FET ends up being shut off slower and later in the waveform, which causes it to heat, which changes the channel resistance, and soon the gate barrier begins to migrate away. This causes impedance changes in that gate (especially in junction FETs), which then leaks off more of the pumped gate cutoff pulse, and failure from overheating usually follows.

(Did I mention that I am a professional Electronics Forensics Specialist by trade?).

I'm going out to rebuild some swingarms and relax.  :)
What Hondaman said! :D
73 750k, 78 750k, 69 c10, 87 r1500 (c10), 94 fzr1000

Offline Spanner 1

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Thanks, Hondaman!, now I'm just dying to see inside the ignition box !
If your sure it's a carb problem; it's ignition,
If your sure it's an ignition problem; it's carbs....

Offline axehole54

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Anyone like "House"? he's funny when he's an "A$$H*(3"    >:(
73 750k, 78 750k, 69 c10, 87 r1500 (c10), 94 fzr1000

Offline Raef

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Yea I like House,  I to have been thinking about checking out the inside of a box, but I was thinking about the one the kids came in, I for one am scared to look inside my hondaman box, the magic might get out

Offline HondaMan

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Thanks, Hondaman!, now I'm just dying to see inside the ignition box !
Yea I like House,  I to have been thinking about checking out the inside of a box, but I was thinking about the one the kids came in, I for one am scared to look inside my hondaman box, the magic might get out

Be sure to seal them back up, if you open them: the case has a specific heating coefficient that dries out the moisture that can condense inside. It can only handle a small amount of moisture, which normally can migrate in with cooling air once the hot box is turned off. The lid is sealed to prevent extra moisture from getting in.  ;)
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline scottly

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Yea I like House,  I to have been thinking about checking out the inside of a box, but I was thinking about the one the kids came in, I for one am scared to look inside my hondaman box, the magic might get out

Keep the magic in both boxes; your bike and your mate will both thank you! ;)
Don't fix it if it ain't broke!
Helmets save brains. Always wear one and ride like everyone is trying to kill you....

Offline Raef

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Yea I like House,  I to have been thinking about checking out the inside of a box, but I was thinking about the one the kids came in, I for one am scared to look inside my hondaman box, the magic might get out

Keep the magic in both boxes; your bike and your mate will both thank you! ;)

I'll leave the HM box alone as long as it works, the other gets irritable if I don't mess with it once in a while. :)

Offline worlddrum13

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so let me get this strait. i can get rid of my stupid points and not spend 400 bucks on a dyna system?! WHERE DO I GET ONE?
75 750 k6

Offline Toxic

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so let me get this strait. i can get rid of my stupid points and not spend 400 bucks on a dyna system?! WHERE DO I GET ONE?

No ... go back and do some more reading you are not getting rid of your points.  This unit doesn't replace them.

I would like to add one comment as I have just put mine on the bike but not got to the point where I fire it up and that would be. "the instructions that come with the unite are VERY well written".
Sometimes HM has a tendency to leave me confused, but his instructions are very clear.

Offline HondaMan

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so let me get this strait. i can get rid of my stupid points and not spend 400 bucks on a dyna system?! WHERE DO I GET ONE?

Well, you're halfway there: it gets rid of the points MAINTENANCE, at the least. And, if it ever does fail, you can swap back to points again in about 2 minutes (really!) on the side of the road, and ride on. (Designer-tested.  ;) )

Scroll back a couple posts above for my e-mail info.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline Terry in Australia

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Hey Mark, you must have missed my previous question from a few days ago, can you let me know?

"Hey mark, I was just sitting here at work, idly daydreaming my day away (as I'm often wont to do) when I thought, "I wonder what HP is lost thru the friction of the points cam opening and closing the points? (against the points spring pressure)

I know that you've previously educated us on how the older style rocker shafts that aren't locked in place like the later ones are good for an extra HP or two due to the lower friction, so I wondered if you knew if any testing had been done by Honda 9or yourself) on this subject?"

The reason that I ask, is that I can "feel" the extra drag of the point's operating when I turn an old CB750 engine I've got here with the top end removed, but when I remove the points assembly, it spins much more freely? With the points operating, it's almost like when you spin a wheel and lightly apply the brakes to "just touching", i.e., when you're adjusting your rear (drum) brake lever?

Cheers, Terry. ;D

 
I was feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't afford new bike boots, until I met a man with no legs.

So I said, "Hey mate, you haven't got any bike boots you don't need, do you?"

"Crazy is a very misunderstood term, it's a fine line that some of us can lean over and still keep our balance" (thanks RB550Four)

Offline HondaMan

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Hey Mark, you must have missed my previous question from a few days ago, can you let me know?

"Hey mark, I was just sitting here at work, idly daydreaming my day away (as I'm often wont to do) when I thought, "I wonder what HP is lost thru the friction of the points cam opening and closing the points? (against the points spring pressure)

I know that you've previously educated us on how the older style rocker shafts that aren't locked in place like the later ones are good for an extra HP or two due to the lower friction, so I wondered if you knew if any testing had been done by Honda 9or yourself) on this subject?"

The reason that I ask, is that I can "feel" the extra drag of the point's operating when I turn an old CB750 engine I've got here with the top end removed, but when I remove the points assembly, it spins much more freely? With the points operating, it's almost like when you spin a wheel and lightly apply the brakes to "just touching", i.e., when you're adjusting your rear (drum) brake lever?

Cheers, Terry. ;D

 

Oops, sorry!  :-[ Didn't mean to play ignore...just forgot! I've never been so busy with bike stuff like I am now, it's pretty amazing. I'm getting about 100 emails each week over it all.

I played with it once, like you, by spinning the crank in the cases when I had an engine apart years ago. What I found then: if the #5 bearing is worn by about 0.001" more than the next one (#4) or the middle one (#3), the points seemed to exhibit quite a bit of drag, particularly if the crankcase is open. I accidentally discovered, though, that installing new bearings in #5 completely fixed it, making almost no detectable drag. That made me think it was some sort of subtle alignment thing somehwere.

So, I took the points cam out of my bike and mounted it on a dowel which I hammered into a pair of used wheel bearings I had on hand, then mounted the points plate on a piece of wood to mock it all up and experiment some more (winters in Illinois were VERY long...). But when I did this, there was very little drag if the points cam was lubed well on its surface. (But, this was with a different points cam from the one that dragged in the first engine: my bike had less than 10k miles on it then.)

Later I discovered what I suspect is the real truth: since the first engine I was working on was high mileage, enough to wear the #5 bearing to 0.0022" clearance (which is why I replaced it), the spark advancer ID on the cam was also worn. This lets them tilt a little, and they often jiggle a bit, especially at slow RPM, so I decided it really was a misalignment issue as they tilt back & forth.

I have often found that bikes sitting more than 2 years get very sluggish points cams, and cleaning them leaves them with extra clearance inside because the center post gets light rust on it, which reduces the OD when stripped off (and sometimes the ID of the cam, too). So, I've sometimes made extra spacer washers on the bottom of that stack to help stabilize the timing by letting the little weight arms press the cam down toward the base a little more. It seems to help. By now, most of the springs are all weaker than normal, so the slightly slower advance rate from this "downforce drag" is actually a good thing...
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline Accolay

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Have you patented your product? Would you need to?
1977 CB550F

Offline Terry in Australia

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Oops, sorry!  :-[ Didn't mean to play ignore...just forgot! I've never been so busy with bike stuff like I am now, it's pretty amazing. I'm getting about 100 emails each week over it all.

I played with it once, like you, by spinning the crank in the cases when I had an engine apart years ago. What I found then: if the #5 bearing is worn by about 0.001" more than the next one (#4) or the middle one (#3), the points seemed to exhibit quite a bit of drag, particularly if the crankcase is open. I accidentally discovered, though, that installing new bearings in #5 completely fixed it, making almost no detectable drag. That made me think it was some sort of subtle alignment thing somehwere.

So, I took the points cam out of my bike and mounted it on a dowel which I hammered into a pair of used wheel bearings I had on hand, then mounted the points plate on a piece of wood to mock it all up and experiment some more (winters in Illinois were VERY long...). But when I did this, there was very little drag if the points cam was lubed well on its surface. (But, this was with a different points cam from the one that dragged in the first engine: my bike had less than 10k miles on it then.)

Later I discovered what I suspect is the real truth: since the first engine I was working on was high mileage, enough to wear the #5 bearing to 0.0022" clearance (which is why I replaced it), the spark advancer ID on the cam was also worn. This lets them tilt a little, and they often jiggle a bit, especially at slow RPM, so I decided it really was a misalignment issue as they tilt back & forth.

I have often found that bikes sitting more than 2 years get very sluggish points cams, and cleaning them leaves them with extra clearance inside because the center post gets light rust on it, which reduces the OD when stripped off (and sometimes the ID of the cam, too). So, I've sometimes made extra spacer washers on the bottom of that stack to help stabilize the timing by letting the little weight arms press the cam down toward the base a little more. It seems to help. By now, most of the springs are all weaker than normal, so the slightly slower advance rate from this "downforce drag" is actually a good thing...

Thanks Mark, that's great information! Now I know that one of the tricks for high revving CB750's "back in the day" before aftermarket electronic ignitions were available for our bikes, was to "double spring" the points, so as to avoid "points float", (aka "Points Bounce") a limiting factor for high RPM points equipped engines.

Would "double springing" create more drag, and thus cause an engine to lose a little HP thru the additional friction? Thanks again mate, I must pull my "HondaMan ignition amplifier" equipped K0 out this weekend and go for a ride! Cheers, Terry. ;D 
I was feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't afford new bike boots, until I met a man with no legs.

So I said, "Hey mate, you haven't got any bike boots you don't need, do you?"

"Crazy is a very misunderstood term, it's a fine line that some of us can lean over and still keep our balance" (thanks RB550Four)

Offline HondaMan

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Oops, sorry!  :-[ Didn't mean to play ignore...just forgot! I've never been so busy with bike stuff like I am now, it's pretty amazing. I'm getting about 100 emails each week over it all.

I played with it once, like you, by spinning the crank in the cases when I had an engine apart years ago. What I found then: if the #5 bearing is worn by about 0.001" more than the next one (#4) or the middle one (#3), the points seemed to exhibit quite a bit of drag, particularly if the crankcase is open. I accidentally discovered, though, that installing new bearings in #5 completely fixed it, making almost no detectable drag. That made me think it was some sort of subtle alignment thing somehwere.

So, I took the points cam out of my bike and mounted it on a dowel which I hammered into a pair of used wheel bearings I had on hand, then mounted the points plate on a piece of wood to mock it all up and experiment some more (winters in Illinois were VERY long...). But when I did this, there was very little drag if the points cam was lubed well on its surface. (But, this was with a different points cam from the one that dragged in the first engine: my bike had less than 10k miles on it then.)

Later I discovered what I suspect is the real truth: since the first engine I was working on was high mileage, enough to wear the #5 bearing to 0.0022" clearance (which is why I replaced it), the spark advancer ID on the cam was also worn. This lets them tilt a little, and they often jiggle a bit, especially at slow RPM, so I decided it really was a misalignment issue as they tilt back & forth.

I have often found that bikes sitting more than 2 years get very sluggish points cams, and cleaning them leaves them with extra clearance inside because the center post gets light rust on it, which reduces the OD when stripped off (and sometimes the ID of the cam, too). So, I've sometimes made extra spacer washers on the bottom of that stack to help stabilize the timing by letting the little weight arms press the cam down toward the base a little more. It seems to help. By now, most of the springs are all weaker than normal, so the slightly slower advance rate from this "downforce drag" is actually a good thing...

Thanks Mark, that's great information! Now I know that one of the tricks for high revving CB750's "back in the day" before aftermarket electronic ignitions were available for our bikes, was to "double spring" the points, so as to avoid "points float", (aka "Points Bounce") a limiting factor for high RPM points equipped engines.

Would "double springing" create more drag, and thus cause an engine to lose a little HP thru the additional friction? Thanks again mate, I must pull my "HondaMan ignition amplifier" equipped K0 out this weekend and go for a ride! Cheers, Terry. ;D 

We did used to double-spring them, but that was for those 14k+ RPM engines. They made so much HP that if the drag was there, we sure didn't notice it: I suspect those were some of the first 100 HP versions (we never dynoed one of them). They didn't have a lot of 4000 RPM torque, but you could not hold the front wheel down for nuthin' in 1st gear when they came up to 8500 RPM.  :D
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline hcritz

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Hey Mark!
I'd be glad to give a glowing recomendation!
Haven't installed the single channel one on the BMW yet...just finished respoking the wheels etc...and got it back on the road.
Bought two K100rs though...Damn Ebay!!! LOL

Offline HondaMan

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Hey Mark!
I'd be glad to give a glowing recomendation!
Haven't installed the single channel one on the BMW yet...just finished respoking the wheels etc...and got it back on the road.
Bought two K100rs though...Damn Ebay!!! LOL


You hotrod, you.  ;D
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline hcritz

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Rode the CB to bike night last night...it gets more attention than the new high dollar harleys....much to the dismay of the DRs and Lawyers that can afford one... LOL Even after spending a good bit of time on the K100...the old CB sure is smooth and sweet on the road.
I'm just about finished with the GS...and yesterday I ran across some NOS parts on E-bay from a company in Israel...they have LOTS of new stuff for older bikes...nothing for the CBs that I saw...but folks may want to check them out for other bikes. I got a Brand new front fairing for the 1150ES in factory paint still in the box...Cost was 149.99...crazy cheap for a part that rare. Shipping was a bit steep...but the cost was still very reasonable for something that hard to find!
Hope all's good over your way!

Offline HondaMan

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  • ...not my choice, I was nicknamed...
    • Getting 'em Back on the Road
Rode the CB to bike night last night...it gets more attention than the new high dollar harleys....much to the dismay of the DRs and Lawyers that can afford one... LOL Even after spending a good bit of time on the K100...the old CB sure is smooth and sweet on the road.
I'm just about finished with the GS...and yesterday I ran across some NOS parts on E-bay from a company in Israel...they have LOTS of new stuff for older bikes...nothing for the CBs that I saw...but folks may want to check them out for other bikes. I got a Brand new front fairing for the 1150ES in factory paint still in the box...Cost was 149.99...crazy cheap for a part that rare. Shipping was a bit steep...but the cost was still very reasonable for something that hard to find!
Hope all's good over your way!


I get small crowds around mine almost everywhere I ride it these days. I wasn't like this about 6-7 years ago: interest seems to be on the rise! I feel bad enough that now I'm going to have to fix it up: we had a 210 MPH windstorm here on July 14, 2009, driving pea-sized hail. It literally mowed houses, cars, motorhomes, fences...and my 750, which was parked into the wind that fateful night (and my house, of course...). It looks terrible from the storm damage. It even cracked the cam cover gasket on the right top side, and it leaks oil every time I pass 4k RPM, making the bike a mess. I got those great new pistons from Z1, gotta take it down and refurbish my old friend.  ;)
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline Terry in Australia

  • Really Old Timer ...
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  • Posts: 33,302
  • So, what do ya wanna talk about today?

I'm just about finished with the GS...and yesterday I ran across some NOS parts on E-bay from a company in Israel...they have LOTS of new stuff for older bikes...nothing for the CBs that I saw...but folks may want to check them out for other bikes. I got a Brand new front fairing for the 1150ES in factory paint still in the box...Cost was 149.99...crazy cheap for a part that rare. Shipping was a bit steep...but the cost was still very reasonable for something that hard to find!


Have you got a link mate? I've got a couple of big GS Suzy's here and am always looking for good parts for them? Cheers, Terry. ;D
I was feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't afford new bike boots, until I met a man with no legs.

So I said, "Hey mate, you haven't got any bike boots you don't need, do you?"

"Crazy is a very misunderstood term, it's a fine line that some of us can lean over and still keep our balance" (thanks RB550Four)

Offline cb750k7

  • Hot Shot
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  • Posts: 427
  • My CB AKA Charlie Brown...(K8 frame with K6 engine
Found real friends here !!!