Ok,
I reseated the air boots at the box and carbs (loosened up the claps pulled everything up tighter and clapped back down). started her up and got it idling evenly with the choke them sprayed WD40 all over both sides of the carb and there was no change in idle. So I am thinking I dont have an air leak. so whats up?? I guess they'll need a vaccum sync?? but would that make the choke work in reverse? with the choke wide open it slows the idle with it closed the engine races?? Weird or am I just too new to all this bike stuff??
When you put the new throttle cable in it is easily possible that you adjusted it too tight, therefore pulling the throttle open. There are two adjuster nuts where it attaches at the carbs, Back these off all the way so that they are slack. This will get you to base point on your throttle cable adjustment. If you are still racing at idle at this point, back your idle adjusting screw back down until you reach a nice even 1000rpm idle. When good idle is achieved, retighten the two adjusting nuts on the throttle cable.
These are the first two areas to check if the only problem is that your idle is too high. Don't waste time with the other thoughts of air leaks, carb sync, or other "problems" until you have at least confirmed this very basic setting.
Your idle slows down when you engage the choke because you are cutting off the air supply and flooding the cylinders with gas. The choke on these older carbs is good for getting the motor started in cold weather, but not so good to use once the engine is running. The only thing the choke lever does is cut off your air supply thereby richening the mixture.
Last, but not least, unless you install a muffler to create at least some exhaust restriction you are going to be pulling your hair out trying to get your bike to idle well at all. At least that's the way it looks in your pics.
Hope this helps
