Topic: 1977 CB550F

[Accolay]

Damnit woman! If you eventually want to take a ride on the bike, then you'll have to give me time to finish it!

[Accolay]

Ok, about the last post. I'm sure everyone has that special someone that enjoys their company. But they need to understand that this is an important process, and if the thing is going to be finished, time needs to be spent on it.

Progress today. Wheels.

I put off replacing the wheel bearings last season because I couldn't get the front axle off, and I decided I would do it "later." Later is now so here I am. I couldn't budge that front axle nut with all my weight on it, and I was worried about because the flats were beginning to round out. Since I now have a vice I clamped down on that nut and used the 17mm flats on the other end to break it loose.

Then I drilled out the punch marks with a 1/8th in drill as suggested in various places on the site and used a Park Tool pin spanner to remove the retaining ring.

Now the rear wheel retaining ring is being a real PITA. I made a tool, but it's not working. I drilled holes in some square stock and first tried some bolts I put through the holes. These bent. Today I tried using some clevis pins that fit in the retaining ring holes nicely. But the ring wont move. I tried drilling it some more. Not sure how deep to go. Currently soaking in some PB blaster. beat on with ball peen hammer and block of wood. nothing.

If (when) I get that loose, just have to find the bearing removal suggestions I've read before on the site.

[Accolay]

I posted this in the Tech Forum first. The rear wheel bearing retaining ring gave me quite a bit of trouble. The first (second) tool's weak point was that the clevis pins I used were relatively free to move up and down. This tool used "universal" clevis pins that I could use retaining pins to the clevis from falling out.

The first first tool I made I used some small, 1/4" I think bolts, but they promptly bent. The second and third tool I made used I think 3/8" clevis pins which fit the retaining ring holes better and they were much stronger

Basically I had to bang on the end of the square stock with the good old ball-peen hammer.

I also received my Hondaparts-direct order today. They left out two nuts and a chain adjusting bolt. Bummer.

[Accolay]

Nothing in the way of real progress today. I did find abrasive blasting media at Menards for a little less than $7 per 50# bag. I think it's called "Black Burst" or something like that. I bought some laquer thinner too. And safety goggles. And some blood meal.

[Accolay]

Progress Report: Carbs.

I've rebuilt the carbs. I can't believe I didn't loose anything (for too long) or end up with extra parts. Digital cameras are wonderful. This was much easier than I thought. I used Yamaha carb cleaner. The outsides of the carbs were dirtier than the insides, but I really wanted to get in the carbs and see what they're all about.

I also wanted to be very careful. If there is anything I've learned from reading away my hours on this forum is that carbs are important. I wanted to get them as clean as possible, and make sure they work as good as possible, etc etc.

Tips: always work with small parts over a table or bowl because it will take you an hour to look for that thing you dropped, and then find that it bounced behind you the whole time.

I replaced all of the O-rings and gaskets with the Honda kits, available at hondaparts-direct.com or other worthy internet seller for about 12$ a kit.

[Accolay]

If anyone needs pictures: I have pictures of basically the entire process.
Many pieces to them carbs.
I found the Jet needle clips were in the 4th position from the top. I moved them to the center position. I hope this is correct. The o-rings were hard and brittle. I bet gas was leaking all through there.

[Accolay]

You want finished pictures, don't you?

I polished the bowls and the tops with the buffer. It's not perfect but it looks a lot better. I also sanded the drain screws. I put one on before polishing and I had to take it off. They were black and the contrast between the shiney silver bowl and flat black brass was just wrong. I also got new screws for the tops and bowls because the old ones were all rusted. I took off rust here and there with naval jelly. New 5.5 and 3.5mm fuel hose and clips bought from local Honda dealership for cheap.

[Accolay]

I started taking apart the switches today. I read that oven cleaner will take off the anodized finish. I'll test first. I also read somewhere on here that you should take these apart above a bowl. Parts smaller than the carbs! No kidding. One false move and you'll be buying yourself a new switch on ebay.

I'll post more as I progress through this tomorrow. I have to soak a few of the screws that are stuck. I started to round their tops off. Probably going to have to buy new ones. Hopefully Ace hardware stocks something similar.

[Accolay]

Using a 1/16" drill bit, I made the middle of the small screws a little deeper, then used my pointiest impact driver bit. Since these are JIS screws which are not quite as deep as the phillips, I figured I could either take some off of my screwdriver or make the screws deeper. I opted for the latter and they came right out. Not even rusted.

Again, there are a lot of small bits here and some springy things, so take care not to lose these parts.

Again, if somebody gets the urge to take this stuff apart without taking pictures, I have the whole set.

[Accolay]

More pics. check out the grooves the hard little ball bearing makes in the soft aluminum cover for the kill switch.

I'm trying the oven cleaner to get the anodized finish off, and it seems to work, but with multiple applications and scrubbing.

[Joel]

I should've bought my circlip pliers from Z1 instead of Sears.  Mine didn't have tips long enough to reach in there without some help.  The clip being rusted in place didn't help either though.  I finally got it out after holding the piston depressed to get the tips onto the clip.  I've been wrestling with it for most of the long weekend.   

[Accolay]

I think I have a tool addiction...just waiting for next payday to order a Japanese Industry Standard screwdriver set. Eesh!

I think of all the tools, those Z1 pliers were the #1 thing I could have got for that brake job. I always look when I'm in tool stores and I haven't seen any other circlip pliers like them anywhere with the tips that long.

If not because they're cool and work, but because they will save so much time, swearing and frustration I think they're worth it.

[Accolay]

I had a broken special linkage washer on the carbs. Maybe they're sold somewhere, but I don't know where. So I made my own.

I went to a local hobby store. No offense to any hobbiests, but you'll have to go to the nerdiest hobby store you can find. I went over to Hub Hobby Center and found myself some really thin stainless steel. It's cheap. I think I paid 79 cents. I hope it doesn't rust.

I scribed the outline from the other washer, then drilled holes and finally cut it out with some dremel magic.

I also tried this plasti-dip stuff today to coat the ends of the front brake lever. It looks ok. I originally bought it to coat some parts on the electrical plate that had previously been coated, but I took off to paint. I wonder if it will hold up to sunshine?

[Accolay]

Before and after.

[shizzomynizzo]

It's coming along quite nice, I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Accolay]

Nothing to post. The only thing frustrating about this project is getting time to work on it. I have free time, but my family gets it. Packrats who now need to get rid of/move crap. If not them, then it's the girlfriend.

After this weekend, I'm going to live in that garage. Maybe there is a reward in the end. Maybe Karma will be good to me.

[Accolay]

I'm back. Finally. What I have done:

-taken out wheel bearings
-removed VIN plate on frame
-cleaned and stripped and primed and puttied and primed tank.
-fixed the side cover crack

Stipping wasn't hard, only time consuming. First I cleaned the tank using the "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner method as noted by KingCustomCycles, and chased it with acetone. It worked quite well. I plugged the petcock hole with a rubber stopper from the Ace Hardware selection.
Then I used aircraft stripper from O'Rielly's Auto Parts to strip layer after layer of paint off the tank. One of the small cans will do this job and you'll still have some left over. There was the topcoat of paint and then primer and then some of the original paint and the body putty I had to strip off in multiple layers. Then I washed it and took off small patches of rust (only where some PO stripped with the wire wheel) with Naval Jelly from Menards.

I wiped it down with acetone, then primed with Eastwoods self etching primer. This was a step I'm not sure I needed, but I was also using it to get the hang of using a HVLP spray gun. I have never done this before, so screwing up is better to do during the priming stage. I think.

Then I used some Rage Premium body filler to fill in some dents. There were two significant dents in this tank. Probably been in an accident/layed down. I dunno. The one in the picture on the left side looks like it's been fixed (brazed?) The fix makes this side of the tank pretty wavy, and I'm not sure my novice body putty work is good enough to get it out. The rest of the spots on there in the picture were my attempt to fill in a lot of pretty deep scratches made by maybe a wire wheel or something.

ps. It might seem like I'm plugging some of the places I got my stuff from, but when I started I didn't know where to get anything, and I'm listing for any readers who don't know motorcycle maintenance/restoration arse from elbow, like me. But then...maybe it's better that the novice makes their own way throughout the many hardware shelves of the world...

[Accolay]

The last picture shows where I repaired the crack in my side cover using the MEK/ABS plastic method as listed somewhere in the forum. I really pooped it in on the back to maybe strengthen that corner.

If you don't have any scrap ABS plastic laying around, you can go to your local hobby shop (real nerd shop, again no offense, I love that stuff) and they sell ABS plastic in short sections, used for making models.

[Accolay]

The End is near! This is quite a long post, but I'm very excited. I'm actually amazed that I've put it back together and it works! I'm glad I took a lot of time to do the carbs. The bike started on the third push of the start button.



It's been quite a while since I really posted. I've moved twice, started school full-time while working full-time, lost my work space and many other trials and tribulations. I wish I could have posted more pictures of the progress, but i really didn't have the time. The mostly finished product is not perfect. I'm glad I decided to paint the frame, because there are many small scratches and dings from reassembly, and I can touch them up.

Before I lost my workspace I had put the engine in the frame, put on both wheels, carbs, and airbox. Then it was winter and the bike sat in storage for the next cold six months. In March I had the side covers and tank clearcoated after posting a Craiglist add. I really started to get the project rolling after school let out.

So in all, in the two years I've owned it, I have:
-Painted all black stuff black again.
-Fixed tank dents and painted "Candy Presto Red" + decals minus stripes.
-Fixed side cover crack
-New tires/tubes
-New fork springs/oil/dust covers
-Totally disassembled carbs and cleaned/new carb gasket kits/new fuel line clips/new carb screws. pretty.
-Painted engine
-Totally disassembled/cleaned handlebar switches
-Hondaman swingarm + swingarm bolt from 500 with 2 grease zerks
-New coils/wires/spark plugs
-Progressive rear shocks
-New seat cover-used some chrome button head hex screws from Menards because it looked alright.
-misc new hardware here and there. I tried to keep it metric if I could.
-New front brake pad and SS lines + Master rebuild kit
-Oregon MC Parts regulator and rectifier
-new clutch plates and springs
-Castrol 20W-50
-New MAc Exhaust
-Polished engine side covers and forks
-Misc. new rubber here and there
-New stearing bearings-tappered
-New wheel bearings

To do:
Broken front turn signal cover during move.
Learn how to tune it properly, especially carbs-I'm pretty sure I'm running lean.
-Reattach VIN plate. I've found a guy who makes new ones, and I'm wondering if I will have him make one. no idea on $.
-Maybe install digital voltmeter for battery
-Fix old ignition switch. I'm not fond of keeping two keys on keychain because new EMGO key doesn't fit seat lock.
-Polish Hubs

I've spend the last week going over the tuning procedures. Finding the sweet spot with a feeler gauge etc. Reading how best to tune it. I bought a timing gun. Go figure-it's way better than the static 12V light check. Oh yeah- and make sure that point gap is 0.4mm NOT 0.04mm-that's important. Right now I'm processing TT's feeler guage timing method, because I've run out of room to move the timing plate to set the timing on 1 and 4.

Things I'd do differently:
-Make it run mechanically and electrically sound before tearing it all apart. We hate rust, but working on your motorcycle is pure torture and kills motivation when you live next to a busy street with the sound of motorcycle fun only a block away all summer long. If you do tear it apart, have something else to ride.

-Have an idea if I'm going to just get it running well, or that plus make it look nice, or do a full restore. Not knowing what I wanted probably slowed down quite a few decisions and the project as a whole.

-Have the Front brake caliper A, B and the handlebar switches anodized black instead of painting. I already have a drip of brake fluid that has bubbled that paint- maybe a winter project. So much for perfection.

This forum was essential for this project. Thanks. Have some pictures. (tank looks redder in picture, but it really is the Candy Presto Red)

[traveler]

Looks great!

How much money do you have invested in her?  $3,000??

~Joe

[Accolay]

I was actually just taking a mental inventory of how much went into it. I think it's over $1000 in parts and probably another $1000 with the tools, but I spread the cost over quite a while, so it didn't hurt as much. I went from basically no mechanics tools to a good set including specialty items like air compressor, HVLP paint gun, timing light, dwell meter, carb float level guage, carb synchronyzer, buffer.

The cost wasn't really that much (perhaps rationalizing...) Considering I bought the bike for $800, and I imagine any of these bikes in about the same condition with a good engine to make safe and sound and reliable will cost between $600-$1000 with new shocks, tires/tubes, new bearings and carb kits, and brake bits.

What really brought up my cost was the cost of making it pretty. But I think I still made out. A 2010 Honda Rebel base MSRP is $3999. So for less than $3000 total I've got a classic and all the tools and experience for the next project (which is a 1972 VW Bus btw).

Next spring though- I'm hankering for a 750. There are always good finds on Craigslist around that time up here....