Author Topic: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?  (Read 2373 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Jonesy

  • Shop Rat
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,648
  • "Damn! These HM300 Pipes Are Expensive!!!"
Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« on: February 11, 2006, 07:51:29 PM »
I just picked up a '78 CB550K. The plastic faces on both the Speedo and Tach are warped to the point where they interfere with the movement of the needles. I have dismantled the gauges and removed the faces. I figured I'd try gently warming them up and pressing them between to flat plates while letting them cool. I know I'll probably never get them perfectly flat again, but I'd like to get them close. Anyone else tried flattening them out before? Results good or bad?  Thanks!
"Every time I start thinking the world is all bad, then I start seeing people out there having a good time on motorcycles; it makes me take another look." -Steve McQueen

Zane

  • Guest
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2006, 09:56:33 PM »
Which way are they warped - towards the paint side or away from the paint side? 

Are they warped just once (like a single bend) or are they convoluted - more like a washboard?

Offline GroovieGhoulie

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,753
  • I have to return some videotapes.
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2006, 10:00:29 PM »
Too much work.

Go to a glass place and have them cut you some glass gauge faces.  If you "know a guy" it shouldn't cost you much, if anything.

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,802
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2006, 12:10:09 AM »
I have a set that is warped, too.  But, they don't interfere with the needles...yet.  I planned to fix these someday.

The plan was to use an oven to warm them up to pliable and let gravity take out the wrinkles.  I bought a non-stick cookie sheet for the task.  But, I was wondering if one of those new silicone baking mats that nothing can stick to, might be better.
Parchment paper is another possibility.  If it sticks, it is thin enough to just trim and leave on and it will still let light through it as this type of panel glows from back illumination.

One of the risks is shrinkage.  When the plastic is first formed it has solvents incorporated to improve it's flow characteristics.  As the plastic ages, these solvents evaporate leaving tiny bubble holes throughout the plastic material.  When reheated, the plastic collapses these bubbles, reducing the volume of the plastic material.

I was worried that anything that touched the face of the panel would distort the markings.

Lets us know how you make out.

Good luck!
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Kelvin8

  • Guest
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2006, 12:40:00 AM »
There used to be a method for unwarping vinyl LPs. Sandwich the plastic between two plates of glass and put them in the oven at low heat (don't know how long). Let them cool between the glass plates and remove. They should be flat then. I haven't tried this method, so ... just remembering it from the pleistocene.

Zane

  • Guest
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2006, 02:18:39 AM »
I've actually done the opposite.  I made my own face plates and then proceeded to warp them. (By mistake.)

The only reason I'm admitting to it is that I learned something by doing that (other than not to forget about them while they're in the oven) that could help you trying to straighten yours out.

I heated mine just to set the paint a bit more solidly.  I had painted them on one side only.  At not very hot (about 125 to 140F) they warped towards the paint.  (It reminded me of film emulsions, where film and the old style photo paper bend towards the emulsion side.)

I just checked my original face plates, and they look as if they're painted on both sides, so my question above doesn't really ask much.

First thing I'd do is see if I could find a junk warped gauge to practice on.  If the plate were warped concave up, I'd try the simplest thing I could think of; that would be to apply a coat of white paint (by hand is fine) to the convex side of the plate.  I would place it in a 125 - 140F oven, paint up, on a 1 cm (1/2 inch) squared baking rack.  I would put a metal or pyrex, open dish of water in the oven as well.  I'd pull up a chair and watch it while it slowly bent towards the paint.

If I didn't have a practice shot, I'd feel confident enough to try this on the original.  After all, I don't think it would really do much, if any harm.  And it could work.  It sure did with my albeit newer plastic.

The stainless wire rack(s) really worked well for me straightening out my warped plastic airbox cover.  It's made from quite a different plastic than the gauge plates, and it is consistent throughout - cross-section wise (no paint or finishing differences on either side).  So I think the pressure method worked because of that.  And even then, I didn't really apply pressure while I was heating the cover - I just heated it up for 15 minutes or so, in a humid and 140F or so oven, and then took it out, put it between the racks, piled about 10 pounds of books on top, and let it dry out/cool down for a day.  After that, even though it was flat, I did the same simple process again.  That was 4 moths ago and the thing is still as flat as a flapjack.  (Those Silpats are pretty neat, but they don't let stuff breathe at all.  Plus, I wonder if pressure is needed at all, at the same time as the heat.  If it is I would use one of those racks, mainly becasue they hardly touch the surface, yet they apply a pretty even pressure throughout.

The whole thing with the gauges I think, though, is that they do not have a consistent cross-section.  And from my experience with warping my face plates, I really do think it's possible to create even more inconsistancy (by adding paint to one side) and then to use that difference to work for you by applying heat and bending towards the paint.  (If the gauges are bent concave down, then I'd be tempted to try a clear, matte coat on the face itself, in order to warp it back "up" so to speak.)

Of course I don't gaurantee this procedure.  It's all just an educated guess.

I will say though, that if no-one tries it out, the next time I'm at the salvage yard I'll procure a couple of warped face plates and see if I can work out a good way to straighten them out.

And I'm with Too Tired - let us know how you do.

Have no fear, and the best luck ....






Zane

  • Guest
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2006, 05:22:17 AM »
Okay, my apologies.  I tried warping my (perfectly flat) old gauge faces with my "paint emulsion" method.

I now have perfectly flat gauge faces that are white on one side.

Maybe pressure and heat is the way to go.

Sorry to waste everyone's time......




Offline Jonesy

  • Shop Rat
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,648
  • "Damn! These HM300 Pipes Are Expensive!!!"
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2006, 06:00:39 AM »
Sounds like we are all thinking in the same line here: warm the faces in an oven and flatten them between two plates. I figure if any shrinkage occurred in the plastic, if it got hot enough to warp, it likely got hot enough to shrink. I work for a plastics company, so I'm very familliar with what they do.

TwoTired, I was going to approach this the way you were, however I was going to use a laboratory oven at work (better control of the temperature) and spray the plates with plastic mold release so they wouldn't stick. This release is safe on paint, too. I'll post the results and if I think I can formulate a relatively safe process, I'll write it up as an FAQ procedure.
"Every time I start thinking the world is all bad, then I start seeing people out there having a good time on motorcycles; it makes me take another look." -Steve McQueen

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,802
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2006, 10:28:06 AM »
Good idea on the mold release!  I have some PVA I've used for fiberglassing.  Does that withstand heat?

What mold release were you thinking of?

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Jonesy

  • Shop Rat
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,648
  • "Damn! These HM300 Pipes Are Expensive!!!"
Re: Anyone ever flattened out warped plastic gauge faces?
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2006, 02:32:10 PM »
What mold release were you thinking of?

Whatever we have lying around the shop... :D

I was talking in terms of plastic injection molding release. Usually these are sprayed onto the molds before the plastic is injected. They typically contain zinc stearate or some other similar mold lubricant. Some plastics come with this chemical already coating the pellets so it doesn't have to be applied to the mold.
"Every time I start thinking the world is all bad, then I start seeing people out there having a good time on motorcycles; it makes me take another look." -Steve McQueen