750K Clymer manual says "Torque down the head mounting nuts and bolts in the sequence shown in figure 42 to 13.7 -15.2 ft lb".
I have run this by the forum - IF YOU FOLLOW THE ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU WILL RISK STRIPPING THE SIX 6mm BOLTS.
Here's a case of Clymer (which is full of errors) literally destroying your rebuild. In head bolt torquing everything is critical so I am am amazed and astounded (but in Clymer's case not the least bit surprised) that the 6mm torque spec is plain wrong. Even in the site K8 official manual the 6mm bolt torque spec is missing. You should not exceed 10 ft lb.
Here's a case where usin a torque wrench can get you into big trouble.
TIP #1 - a short term fix - if you strip any of the 5 shorter bolts - and don't want to take it all apart, helicoil and buy a new head gasket - it's possible to rethread in situ with a 1/4 fine thread tap and use same length 1/4 bolts. This quick fix will hold near 10 ft lb. I will report back on long term tesults a few miles down the road.
TIP #2 - if you notice anything wishy washy upon disassembly, don't assume loose from vibration or a dumb DPO. Retighten it right then to see if the nut or bolt holds torque or does it strip out. It's a lot easier to know what to helicoil when everything is apart the one time.
TIP #3 - The D&K full gasket kit ($69) from Sirius is a good looking set with head gasket, all sorts of top and bottom paper gaskets, valve seals, exhaust rings. However their stud packings were .34 inches long and seemed way too long holding the head way proud of the cylinder. The old packings had been squished to .23 and didn't protrude above the head gasket. The originals at the Honda parts counter were about .27 inches but they cost 8 bucks each for a total of $64 CDN. So I mounted the D&K packings on a bolt and using my unimat and exacto accurately cut them to .27 inches. The D&K was also missing some of the head and cylinder base Orings where generic imperial Orings provided a good fit. The D&K rocker cover gasket was way too big, maybe can be forced or cut, but I just simply reused the old one.
TIP #54 - The tach drive seal should always be replaced ($3 from Honda) but in this case it's easily enough done with the motor in.
I read a lot about head leaks and maybe any the above will help someone.
