Topic: 750K3 (Dummy) Rebuild

[Monster]

I'm about to start rebuilding my 750 K3, but I am not entirely sure that I have everything figured out.

I found an old 750 rebuild thread for dummies, and got some good info from there but I still have some large gaps of knowledge.

I know there is a lot of information to be found using the search function, but I am not sure what I should be doing and have yet to find a definite list, so once I make a check list of Do's and some Don'ts using the search will be a lot less of a head ache.

So far here is what I know I am going to do.

Know - Pull it apart(duh)
Know - I believe I read on that rebuild for dummies thread that people replace the old case screws for hex screws?
Q - Where can I find said hex screws mine are in rough shape.
Know - Check for worn parts
Know - Replace any worn parts
Q - What is a few heavily trusted sites for replacement engine parts?
Q - Clean it all?
Q - Here is one part I am very iffy on, which parts I should clean (all), and how to go about cleaning them.
Q - I want to repaint the motor, but I am not sure how to prep it, or if it would be better valued to have it prepped.
Q  - What type of paint to use and what type of painting method.

If I am missing from this list, which I probably am feel free to add.  I plan to start on Friday or Saturday, need to finish some stuff up around the house and create a clean proper work space.

I have every intention of posting pictures of my screw ups and stumps as I go so hopefully other people can enjoy my failures and victories with me.  A little FYI I am about as mechanically savvy as a rock so it should be fun to watch me screw up.

Thanks in advance

-Monster

[vern401]

The cleaning question. It depends on the part your cleaning as what to use and how to do it.
If your doing a FULL restore then clean all means just that... Clean and inspect everything.
The frame look for rust, pitts, flaking paint, dents or possible bends from accidents etc.
The tank look for rust in it.. Removing fuel tank rust will keep you from pulling out your hair later.
Wiring look for coroded connectors, and or Green buildup in wiring whear you feel the need to replace a connector. If the wire has corosion in it then I would replace it since it is going to fail in the future.
One big help if you dont already have it is the book for your bike. A multimeter is almost a must.
There is allot more info to give but that is a basic start. If your not sure about what to use for cleaning something please do ask us, one of us will know.

[wrenchmuch]

I bought Hondaman's book . It has a lot of info on the rebuilding process and tips for getting the best performance from stock parts if that's the way you are going . I highly recommend it . I had my engine's painted parts bead blasted and then hot tanked after disassemble . When I got them back I pressure washed them again and again using brushes in the oil passages . Most in North America use Duplicolour #1615 Aluminum . Start with the self etching primer first . I painted my engine after I assembled it but I had some old covers that I put on for the painting . I used the hot running engine curing technique . I didn't bake it in the oven (if I had I'd probably be divorced now). I have a little pealing on my head fins at both ends but I think there might have been oil there .
Lots of sources for parts here .   http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=743.0     My personal favorites are: APE (if you are building a rocket start here ), Cycle X (shipping can be slow but is also less expensive than others . I've always been happy in my dealings with Ken) ,  Dynoman ( good communication and fast shipping ), and Yamiya ( I can't belive how fast their shipping is ). I also use Bike Bandit (Lots of stock parts and real fast shipping but a little pricey ) .  
I bought my fasteners from Jim Spillane . I got a kit for the front end and engine covers . Very complete kits .
Jim Spillane, SOHC/4 Member #28, sells stainless-steel philips-head and allen-head screw sets:
Here's his site: www.metrocast.net/~spillane/index_004.htm
Email Jim at spillane@metrocast.net for prices and availability.
Have fun . I'm just starting on a rebuild of my 750 k4 . When I get some pics sorted I'll start a build thread .
Good luck
Mike

Just noticed your in Canada . If your in the GTA I can give suggestions for machine shops .

[mycb750k6]

I'd suggest starting a thread in the projects section with pictures and descriptions and document as you go. That way people can chime in as you progress. Plus it'll be fun for you and a way to reference any questions that come up. (I'd like to see an engine rebuild documented anyway)    Go slow and take a lot of pictures - that way you'll get a lot of help.

[Monster]

@ vern401
Yeah if I'm going to rebuild this bike I want to do it right.  So I guess I'm cleaning it all, I'll probably ask how to clean each part as I go.
As for the frame, well its poo.  It was modified into a bobber which was fine with me, but I found a mean rust hole through an engine mount bracked and through the tube steel at the bottom.  And its far beyond my skills of repair.  So I'm checking around for a frame. On that note, is anyone in Manitoba selling a 750 bike frame  ?  The gas tank I have I don't like all that much, I'd rather have something resembling stock, but I end up keeping the bobber frame and finding some one to fix it, I'll definitely have it relined professionally.

All the wiring is and was scrapped when I got it, looked like a rats nest with all the fraying and bunching.

I have pdf of the manual which I'm definitely going to be referring to.


@ wrenchmunch

Thanks for the info, how much does bead blasting and having it hot tanked usually cost?

Thanks for all the parts references, those are going to be vital in this rebuild.

And i'm not in the GTA i'm in manitoba.  Too bad i'd really like to have some one tell me what are some good local shops to go to.

@ mcycb750k6

Yeah if this rebuild goes well, i'll take the gems from this thread and put them into a nice victory thread in the projects section.

Thanks for the replies guys.

-Monster

[laser145]

I bought Hondaman's book . It has a lot of info on the rebuilding process and tips for getting the best performance from stock parts if that's the way you are going . I highly recommend it . I had my engine's painted parts bead blasted and then hot tanked after disassemble . When I got them back I pressure washed them again and again using brushes in the oil passages . Most in North America use Duplicolour #1615 Aluminum . Start with the self etching primer first . I painted my engine after I assembled it but I had some old covers that I put on for the painting . I used the hot running engine curing technique . I didn't bake it in the oven (if I had I'd probably be divorced now). I have a little pealing on my head fins at both ends but I think there might have been oil there .
Lots of sources for parts here .   http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=743.0     My personal favorites are: APE (if you are building a rocket start here ), Cycle X (shipping can be slow but is also less expensive than others . I've always been happy in my dealings with Ken) ,  Dynoman ( good communication and fast shipping ), and Yamiya ( I can't belive how fast their shipping is ). I also use Bike Bandit (Lots of stock parts and real fast shipping but a little pricey ) .  
I bought my fasteners from Jim Spillane . I got a kit for the front end and engine covers . Very complete kits .
Jim Spillane, SOHC/4 Member #28, sells stainless-steel philips-head and allen-head screw sets:
Here's his site: www.metrocast.net/~spillane/index_004.htm
Email Jim at spillane@metrocast.net for prices and availability.
Have fun . I'm just starting on a rebuild of my 750 k4 . When I get some pics sorted I'll start a build thread .
Good luck
Mike

Just noticed your in Canada . If your in the GTA I can give suggestions for machine shops .

Good list, subscribed.

[Monster]

I'm going to go pick up hand impact driver today or tomorrow, should I look for anything specific or just the best price?  Already have some PB Blaster, what else am I needing for the pull apart?

Oh and, am I crazy for wanting to rebuild this motor even though I don't and probably won't have a frame ready to put it in when I'm done?

Thanks

-Monster

[wrenchmuch]

I had the blasting done by the machine shop when I had my head work and cylinders bored . It was $130 to blast the head , barrels , and cases . Most shops will hot tank the parts after they have machined them to remove any leftover machining by products . Zedeno cycles in Kitchener here have a lot of frames but it would be a bit of a road trip for you . Theres got to be a bike wreckers in your area .
Bike bandit shows a new harness for K3 at about 90 bucks . Taking pics to get a build tread up this weekend .
Good luck
Mike

[Monster]

@ wrenchmuch
Thanks for the info, yeah I've been having trouble finding a bike wrecker in winnipeg.  Seems they don't advertise too much so you either know some one who knows about it or you stumble on it.
Oh and drop a link to your build thread next time you come through here.

So, I picked up a new rubber mallet (my old wooden one was falling apart) and a hand impact driver, worked like a charm... except two screws that decided they would much rather round out then turn.  They're not completly stripped but they are close... what do I do?  I tried taking picks but it ended up crappy and blurry, I also figured you guys all know what a stripped screw looks like anyways.

Thanks

-Monster

[wrenchmuch]

Drill into the head of the screw with a bit just slightly larger than the bolt's threaded portion . When you are through the head the head of the bolt will come off. Once the cover is off you can turn the shank of the bolt out with a pair of vice grips .

[Alan F.]

...Once the cover is off you can turn the shank of the bolt out with a pair of vice grips .

Or it'll turn freely without visegrips, that happens sometimes too when the head of the screw was corroded to its adjacent surface, the threads could be perfectly clean.

[Monster]

I was lucky, I drove the phillips bit into the head and was able to get a secure couple hits in with the impact driver.  Now I'm rushing to find a proper frame.   So the deal is I have to get a frame for it before I continue work, I'm a university student and currently live at home with my parents so its dads rules, or he'll toss it all out. 

Sincerely

 Ashmed

[Monster]

So I think I found a frame, the guy said its a 75 or a 76.  Will my k3 mount into the frame, or will it need modifications to the frame?  Also he said he has gas tanks and other misc parts for a cb750 pre 78, is there some sort of cross compatibility thread or chart ? 

Thanks

- Monster

[wrenchmuch]

When I look at www.cmsnl.com They show the same part number for both the K3 and K5 . K6 is a different part number . I can't tell you that that a K6 frame won't work with all your K3 parts , just that they have different part numbers which would tend to indicate some difference . If its a K5 or earlier you should be fine . Maybe someone who knows can comment on differences Between a K5 and K6 .
Mike

[traveler]

Glad you have a frame....now before you start spending alot of money, talk to the city government about getting a title and licensing it....otherwise you end up with a restored "parts bike".

~Joe

[Monster]

@wrenchmuch

  Well luckily the frame ended up being a k3 so no more worries there.

@traveler
 
  Yeah I'm going to be getting into contact with MPI which is what controls all things vehicle in my province.

-----

So I now that I got all the screws loose off of the top how do I get the top off, seems stuck.  Should I just give it a good tap?

[Silverback]

There are two bolts under the breather cover that I bet you forgot.