Author Topic: 1971 CB500K Project: (Read 48907 times)

Greggo · « **Reply #50 on:** March 21, 2011, 06:38:08 PM »

?Questions? I picked up a later 550 rocker cover with the locked shafts, but one of the rockers is scored, can I replace a rocker individually? And, does it need to be from a later model cover?

I got a nice 550 cam shaft for the spare 500 motor, not sure if there's a performance boost from 500 to 550 cams? That motor turns freely, but has sat for a few years. The compression is low in #1 (~75) but I think it may come back up with a little sea foam soak and some running.

The 550 motor soaked with atf/acetone for over a week, but the 2 and 3 cylinders STILL won't budge

I may have to take it to my pop's shop and get some help. I can't imagine I wouldn't need a re bore, and I'd really like to find a good big bore kit for this engine, but either way I'll be ordering some kibblewhite valves when they come out in next month.

cavebear · « **Reply #51 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:24:32 AM »

Greggo, just emailed you.

cavebear

FunJimmy · « **Reply #52 on:** April 03, 2011, 07:42:09 AM »

Gregg

You should have no issues swapping out rockers from an earlier engine.
I have both types of rockers and covers and they swap over just fine.

I don't think there was any difference in the cams between the 500 and 550 either. It's the 650 cam that you should sourse.

What's this about Kibblewhite valves? Are they just coming out with them for the 550?
What benefits do they offer?

Cheers
FJ

Quote from: Greggo on March 21, 2011, 06:38:08 PM

?Questions? I picked up a later 550 rocker cover with the locked shafts, but one of the rockers is scored, can I replace a rocker individually? And, does it need to be from a later model cover?

I got a nice 550 cam shaft for the spare 500 motor, not sure if there's a performance boost from 500 to 550 cams? That motor turns freely, but has sat for a few years. The compression is low in #1 (~75) but I think it may come back up with a little sea foam soak and some running.

The 550 motor soaked with atf/acetone for over a week, but the 2 and 3 cylinders STILL won't budge I may have to take it to my pop's shop and get some help. I can't imagine I wouldn't need a re bore, and I'd really like to find a good big bore kit for this engine, but either way I'll be ordering some kibblewhite valves when they come out in next month.

Greggo · « **Reply #53 on:** April 03, 2011, 08:29:49 AM »

Jimmy, thanks for the info on the rockers and camshafts. Mike Rieck mentioned the kibblewhite valves in a post titled 'good news for 550 owners' or something similar. He said they'd be priced around the same as oem. Not quite sure about the benefits yet, still have to look into it.

My pistons are still stuck. I'm using the press.

Stev-o · « **Reply #54 on:** April 03, 2011, 08:55:46 AM »

Most likely the rings are rusted to the cylnders. Once you can see [and measure?] if there is damage, you can decide if boring is necessary.

FunJimmy · « **Reply #55 on:** April 03, 2011, 10:10:49 AM »

Quote from: Greggo on April 03, 2011, 08:29:49 AM

My pistons are still stuck. I'm using the press.

That's serious stuff.
Good luck with it.

Greggo · « **Reply #56 on:** May 28, 2011, 07:05:21 PM »

Wow it's been a long time since I've updated. Not much has changed other than cosmetics. I had a tank slapper over a sand dune that had blown into the road, so I replaced my worn chain and sprockets while I was cleaning things. The wheel bearings have been changed, and that also meant new wheels, as the old ones were rusty, and I had a nice spare set. I shelved that motor project due to money constraints. I have a much nicer '72 motor I'm going to rebuild with a little help from my pop's shop. I'm planning a webcam, titanium rocker nuts, kibblewhite valves, and some other goodies I haven't saved enough for yet. For now...she's been riding like a dream. I wish I saw more of these old girls on the street.

Here's what I did today.

Replaced my CRUSTY front signal stems, old on the left, new on the right. These were by far the ugliest item on my bike, and I feel much better now that they're replaced.

Mounted my painted stator cover. It was scraped up from a PO crash, so this is a significant improvement

Finished

tango911 · « **Reply #57 on:** June 03, 2011, 07:25:11 AM »

nice thread Greggo. Tool tray on way! sorry it took so long to get it out.

Steve

Greggo · « **Reply #58 on:** June 13, 2011, 06:33:12 PM »

Took the front wheel off, had the tire swapped/balanced at MotoTireGuy in SF for $20, Score! Put on my new wheel with fresh bearings, a drilled rotor I picked up from member Cleveland, and a really nice front fender I've been saving.

All with the very necessary assistance of Domer (Danny) -- Thank you again (he did most of the work).

Greggo · « **Reply #59 on:** June 13, 2011, 06:37:46 PM »

tango911 · « **Reply #60 on:** June 14, 2011, 06:05:23 AM »

looks sweet Greggo!

Greggo · « **Reply #61 on:** June 14, 2011, 02:29:14 PM »

Swapped in the polished forks with Domer.

Greggo · « **Reply #62 on:** July 16, 2011, 07:58:36 PM »

Got the bike running with Domer today after swapping in the CB650 cam.

I gathered up my nicest rockers and put together a workable valve cover from the three different ones I had. I picked up the 650 cam off ebay for a bill. All the lobes were in very nice, uniform shape, leading me to believe it came from a very low mileage bike. I picked up two new gaskets, cheap.

Installing the cam, and adjusting the valves is all the same as stock, it was a direct, drop in job. All outside rusty phillips head screws were replaced with new allen head bolts. Danny's been practicing his polishing, so he shined up some rocker end caps, and tappet covers for me. Dude rocks! The bike looks better than before, and judging by a two minute shakedown ride...I'm very happy with the upgrade. I'm being careful about breaking in my new top end. I also need to helicoil a few exhaust studs, which are causing an exhaust leak.

Goldbug · « **Reply #63 on:** July 17, 2011, 10:18:53 PM »

I really dig the color you chose for the tank.

Greggo · « **Reply #64 on:** July 18, 2011, 03:40:16 PM »

Quote from: jwarriner on July 17, 2011, 10:18:53 PM

I really dig the color you chose for the tank.

Thanks! I actually bought it that way from member Tango911 already painted and decided I liked it enough to keep the color.

I put ten miles on the bike (not much, I know) on my commute to work. I want Oh So Badly to crank the throttle, but I'm sure the top end surfaces need more time to mate to each other. The idle adjuster screw needed a little bump, because it was dying at idle, but everything feels great so far!

The 650 tachometer is not a direct swap, so I've got the old tach on there but with no cable...weird running without a tachometer.

Greggo · « **Reply #65 on:** July 21, 2011, 02:51:17 PM »

Helicoiled the bad exhaust stud and tried to install my Hooker 4-1...got everything lined up, new gaskets, bracket made, then the Honda collars didn't fit.

So, I reinstalled my crappy 4-1.

Oiled the drive chain with a toothbrush and some 10-40, started her up, and voila! No more exhaust leak!!!

Now that that's fixed, and the top end has had a few miles, I think I can let her fly!!

Greggo · « **Reply #66 on:** July 23, 2011, 10:29:11 AM »

Finally discovered the bike was running with a 50 amp fuse! Swapped it out for a 15 amp while I go buy some 20 amps.

tango911 · « **Reply #67 on:** July 23, 2011, 01:27:06 PM »

pretty cool Greggo, bike looks great in the pics. That red ish color really pops.

Greggo · « **Reply #68 on:** July 23, 2011, 08:04:53 PM »

Quote from: tango911 on July 23, 2011, 01:27:06 PM

pretty cool Greggo, bike looks great in the pics. That red ish color really pops.

It definitely stands out. I tried to install the hooker 4-1 like you had, but the Honda collars didn't fit the pipes at all. Do you remember how yours were held on?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #69 on:** July 23, 2011, 08:41:12 PM »

Greggo,

Bike is looking nice and the polished bits look good. Make it pop out a bit...

You did get the 650 tach drive for the 650 camshaft right?
They are different from 550 or 500s tach drive.

Do you have your 650 tach yet? There are some NOS ones on ebay, around 72.
Make sure you get the early tach and not the DOHC tach.

David

Greggo · « **Reply #70 on:** July 23, 2011, 08:57:44 PM »

Quote from: RAFster122S on July 23, 2011, 08:41:12 PM

Greggo,

Bike is looking nice and the polished bits look good. Make it pop out a bit...

You did get the 650 tach drive for the 650 camshaft right?
They are different from 550 or 500s tach drive.

Do you have your 650 tach yet? There are some NOS ones on ebay, around 72.
Make sure you get the early tach and not the DOHC tach.

David

Thanks for the compliments. Domer did all the polishing.

I did get a 650 tach drive, and it's installed, but the 650 tach doesn't fit on to the stock bracket..not even close. So, I'm going to try to have my dad's mechanic make something, or buy those cyclex style mini gauges. Since I had no good solution, I left the old one on. I just have a dead tach for the moment. The engine sounds pretty much the same, so I have a good idea of where I'm at by feel.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #71 on:** July 23, 2011, 09:09:07 PM »

Yeah, the 650 tach is very wide at the back end...
I figured it would need a new bracket fabricated to hold the gauges...figured I would use 1/8" Aluminum first and if it wasn't stiff enough I'd move up to 3/16" aluminum.
The chrome cup for the 550 gauges won't fit the 650 gauge but I'm wondering if the 650s used a chrome cup like the 550 and 500?
I've not seen a 650 in years.

The 650 cam pulls harder doesn't it? The increased duration eliminates the 550 flat spot around 4-5K.
If you aren't getting to 7k -8k you aren't having fun on the bike... It really starts moving when the revs get up into that range.

David

Greggo · « **Reply #72 on:** July 24, 2011, 11:56:50 AM »

Quote from: RAFster122S on July 23, 2011, 09:09:07 PM

Yeah, the 650 tach is very wide at the back end...
I figured it would need a new bracket fabricated to hold the gauges...figured I would use 1/8" Aluminum first and if it wasn't stiff enough I'd move up to 3/16" aluminum.
The chrome cup for the 550 gauges won't fit the 650 gauge but I'm wondering if the 650s used a chrome cup like the 550 and 500?
I've not seen a 650 in years.

I'm not home to take a picture, but the 650 tach I have does have a chrome cup at the bottom with studs to mount onto the gauge bracket. It could have worked, but the tach would have been twisted sideways, with the cable coming out over the chrome headlight ears...fugly. I will most likely end up sourcing those cyclex gauges, as they're not listed on their site anymore. Really a shame as I love the look of the stock 500 gauges.

Quote from: RAFster122S on July 23, 2011, 09:09:07 PM

The 650 cam pulls harder doesn't it? The increased duration eliminates the 550 flat spot around 4-5K.
If you aren't getting to 7k -8k you aren't having fun on the bike... It really starts moving when the revs get up into that range.

David

I haven't really opened her up yet because of the exhaust leak. I haven't ridden since I fixed it. I'll be picking up those 20 amp fuses so I'll feel better about riding home from work tomorrow night. Then I'll really twist that grip to see what she's got!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #73 on:** July 24, 2011, 03:30:35 PM »

It would be a lot of work but you could take the guts out of the 650 gauge and put them in your 550 tach... Then you'd have what looked like stock 500 gauges but inside the 650 guts would reside. Provided the 650 guts would fit inside the 550 casing.
If I had a dead 650 tach I'd be tempted to do it/try it by determining if the 650 guts would fit.

Greggo · « **Reply #74 on:** July 24, 2011, 03:42:20 PM »

Quote from: RAFster122S on July 24, 2011, 03:30:35 PM

It would be a lot of work but you could take the guts out of the 650 gauge and put them in your 550 tach... Then you'd have what looked like stock 500 gauges but inside the 650 guts would reside. Provided the 650 guts would fit inside the 550 casing.
If I had a dead 650 tach I'd be tempted to do it/try it by determining if the 650 guts would fit.

I actually have a 500 tach that's completely disassembled, and I don't think the 650 guts will fit. I was tempted to try, but the cable connector on the 500's tach shoots straight out, while the 650's protrudes at an angle.

News:

Author Topic: 1971 CB500K Project: (Read 48907 times)