Topic: How to revitalizing Spoked rims for little out of pocket?

[CB750Ken8]

So, while I'm waiting to get the whole front sprocket issue worked out, I'm trying to figure out what to do with my spoke rims, the front is almost pristine

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260624840703&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

however the rear one is a tad rusty it looks worse then it really is especially after I used some naval jelly and a brass wire wheel on a drill



I'd like to not have to do anything to the front rim since its still in such great shape, but as you can see the rear needs a bit of work, but re-chroming is like $400 way outside my price range, sure I could re-spoke it but hat only fixes the spokes not the rim itself I could get it powder coated but then I'd have to have the front done too. So then my question is what would be a viable route for "better then it is now" look with out the new rim price tag? Do I try to prime and paint it with "chrome-like" paint and hope it holds up, or something else?

[mcuozzo]

Here's my two cents...

Get new spokes - $29 http://www.cb750supply.com/products/2/chassis-brakes/61/wheel-spokes

Be patient and check ebay, hondachopper.com, craigslist, this site, any harley site and keep an eye out for an 18 inch 40 hole rim.  They come up all the time.  I just got one off my local craigslists for $40.

So for $69 that's a new rim and spokes. 

In that quote for $400 for re-chroming where you including the hub?  I personally wouldn't chrome the hub, but that's just my opinion.  Unless you're building a chopper it looks out of place.  Again just my opinion.  If you want it to look better you could paint, polish or powder coat your hub.  All those should be way under a $100.

For the bike I'm restoring I'm going to get the front and rear hubs polished.  Got a quote of $100-120 for both hubs locally.

So that's just my ideas on the subject.

Good luck and post pictures of whatever you do!!!

Matt

[Ichiban 4]

Back in the "old days" (late 1950's) when we didn't have a whole lot of money..but lots of time..we did the following to old rusty rims and spokes:

1.) Scrape and steel wool the rims..and individual spokes until all surface rust/flaking chrome/paint was off (by far..the most tedious/time consuming was cleaning the individual spokes). If the rims were seriously pitted..we used emory cloth to get down in the pits..then primed with paint to final coat later.

2.) If the chrome or zinc (zinc on most spokes @ that time) was still intact..we polished with extra fine steel wool (0000..I believe)..which was soaked with WD 40.  That could last for years with regular maintenance/re-application of WD 40 periodically.

3.) If the corrosion had eaten into the steel below..we would mask off the spokes and paint the rims..then clear spray everything else (nipples were usually brass..spokes usually have some zinc still left on them)

Obviously..this is a labor intensive undertaking (could take 2 to 3 hours per wheel)..but if you've got the time or inclination..entirely possible.  And we would re-sell those wheels for about half of what they cost new.  Was cheaper than building or re-spoking/lacing an entire wire wheel from scratch.

Nowadays..I'd use Mother's Chrome/Wire Wheel cleaner first..which would save a lot of time getting the rust off initially (but will dissolve the zinc on spokes..if left on too long).  Then follow-up with the steel wool-WD 40 thing.

Many today would just blow-off trying to clean up rusty wheels/spokes this way..get new ones and/or have the rims replaced or re-chromed.  But as said..that was a luxury we couldn't afford 60 years ago.

Keep us updated on what you decide to do..especially if it's the old school route.

Cheers,

Ichi

[CB750Ken8]

I like the old school route, sure its labor intensive, but I'd rather put the time in then fork $200+.

I was thinking of delacing the rims, cleaning them up, removing rust and bubbled up chrome, then roughing up the surface, applying etching primer to spokes and rim, then apply some really really tough paint and clear coat with really really tough clear coat, so that I maybe only need to repaint once every 5 years Hopefully.

[Ichiban 4]

Hi Ken..

Well..de-lacing or breaking down the wheel would definitely be better/more thorough than trying to clean-up spokes on the wheel.  But my thinking would be that if you're going to go to all that trouble..to @ least just go ahead and replace the spokes with new ones..they're usually the least expensive part of a wheel rebuild.

Besides that..once spokes have been laced into a rim/wheel..they usually are ground down on the inner part of the rim (where the spoke shaft comes through the nipple)..after the wheel is trued..which means that they will be of slightly different lengths.  Then..when you go to lace them up again..unless you put the exact same spoke and nipple in the same place in the rim and hub..they can be too short..et al.  Basically it's a hassle trying to re-lace previously used spokes..some of which will have to be replaced with new anyway.

Another thing I was thinking..if you're going to break down your wheels and re-lace them: is that I'd get the rims powder coated..rather than just painting..if @ all possible.  It should be less than re-chroming..and will last about as long as chrome..if taken care of.  However..there are now some really good epoxy type paints available nowadays..I've used Krylon epoxy in a can..with very good/long lasting results.

You know: in thinking about all of this "old school" stuff..I know that we did a pretty good/durable job years ago..with the materials available then.  With the stuff available today..using similar techniques..I don't see why you couldn't end up with some very nice wheels after all's said and done.

Keep us posted..

Al / Ichi

[CB750Ken8]

I'll take pics of the delaced, rim, after painting with black honda laquer paint, with a cloat coat for wheels, and I'm glad you pointed that out about the spokes I never knew that, and you saved me some paint and time.



IMPORANT EDIT:::: Any idea on a good place to get 17inch laces, or laces for a 17inch rim, I can find 18inch rim spokes??

[Ichiban 4]

I'll take pics of the delaced, rim, after painting with black Honda lacquer paint, with a clear coat for wheels, and I'm glad you pointed that out about the spokes I never knew that, and you saved me some paint and time.



IMPORANT EDIT:::: Any idea on a good place to get 17inch laces, or laces for a 17inch rim, I can find 18inch rim spokes??

_________________________________________________________

Hi..

Sorry..I've been away from building wire wheels for so long..I don't know.  But seems like they should be pretty easy to find..if you do a websearch..look for a manufacturer of wire spokes.  Although the road bikes don't use wire wheels so often any more..the off-road still do for the most part.  Chopper/custom bike builders are also still building wire wheels quite a lot.

A suggestion about the paint you mentioned: I'd really look for an epoxy type paint..not just enamel..and especially not lacquer. From experience..those don't hold up nearly as well as the epoxy types on these sorts of applications.  BTW: if you want to ensure that the paint stays on well..get the rims sandblasted first..then spray paint directly over that.  No need for primer (if the surface has been sandblasted and kept clean..I go over with acetone/lacquer thinner immediately before painting).  Primer just adds another layer of paint that can chip off..etc.

Al/ Ichi

[CB750Ken8]

I had roughed up the surface of the chrome with a 60 grit sand wheel on the dremel and the primer is just to take care of the rust, if this paint idea fails I'll get them sand blasted and use epoxy paint, although I'm surious if the clear coat paint is epoxy since its for wheels.

[CB750Ken8]

Thought I'd update this thread since I finally got the paint on the rim to look good and cured.


The white-ish spots are just paint that's still curing, with me and the sun at just the right angle.

sanded rim down with 60 grit dremel sand drum
1 coat of rust converter, this stuff is annoying to work with since it sprays in a jet and not a mist
sanded converter with 320 grit sand block
3 coats of etching primer
3 coats of Dupli-color Perfect match nighthawk black
3 coats of dupli-color wheel clear coat
buggered up the clear coat
sanded buggered up areas with 120 grit sand paper
sanded entire with 400 grit
3 coats of Dupli-color black acrylic lacquer
3 coats of Dupli-color wheel clear coat

I'm rather pleased and a coworker said that the wheel paint is some pretty darn tough stuff.

[mcuozzo]

Looks good.  No matter how patient I try to be, I always mess up a paint job.

Not trying to be a smartass here and I realize that there's something said to having done it yourself, but with all that time and materials cost, it seems it would have been easier to just get the wheel powder coated.  Not to mention that it would be a more durable finish.

Are you going to paint the hubs too?  The rear hub is a pain to clean, etc.  I powder coated mine.  Took a long time to get it clean enough for coating though.  If my oven was big enough I would have offered to powder coat your wheels for the price of the powder.  Unfortunately my oven is too small for even a 16 inch rim.  Here's a pic.

Matt

[CB750Ken8]

Nope gonna leave the rim silver spokes on the other hand are gonna go black, I figure if my paint starts to wear out in under 1000miles I'll switch to powder coat.

[KB02]

The old rim is looking good!

[CB750Ken8]

Thanks KB02 and thank you for the rim. Notice I said leave the rim silver in my last post even though I'm painting it black....I meant to say I'm keeping the hub silver, spokes painted black as well as the rim.

[Toxic]

Great job

I did mine in the winter sooo...



The 16" rear fit inside the front rather nicely

[CB750Ken8]

Ha HA toxic that's cool, although none of the paint on mine require baking although your pic does look like when I baked the exhaust.

[CB750Ken8]

Got the spokes cleaned up, mainly because its almost impossible to find spokes for a 17inch rear wheel, and getting a new rim is not my choice besides I have a friend who thinks he can relace them, plus he has a truer and balancing stand for wheels.

Going to paint them tomorrow.

[CB750Ken8]

Well I have the rear wheel done, all be it with scraped off paint on the rim and spokes, the rim faired better because I actually let the clear coat cure, but got impatient and didn't let the spokes, So I'm gonna leave the wheel assembled get it balanced and trued, then I'm going to try and rough up everything then either hit it VHT epoxy, VHT Chassis roll bar, or VHT Caliper paint, taping off the out side parts of the drum and taping off the nipples, then see how it looks hopefully it will be done, looking good and last a while.

Until then here's what it looks like now.

[dave500]

Great job

I did mine in the winter sooo...



The 16" rear fit inside the front rather nicely

man if my wife saw me doing that!