Author Topic: Alive!!!! But still needs some work. (Read 1716 times)

jbonham · « **on:** July 14, 2010, 08:49:37 AM »

After putting this thing together over the last 6 weeks it's finally starting and running on its own, although it still needs work. It sounds rough but I think after I continue to adjust the carbs it should be fine. I still have a laundry list of items I have to buy to make it road worthy but, getting her started is a big step forward.

Thanks to all who have helped and will continue to help me get this thing completed.

Johnie · « **Reply #1 on:** July 14, 2010, 08:51:46 AM »

Ah good news! Congrats goes to you. Nothing like hearing it run to know progress has been made. Now the fine tuning. Keep us informed.

jbonham · « **Reply #2 on:** July 14, 2010, 08:55:22 AM »

Yeah, the sound of progress! one of the exhaust is broken in half so I think that adds to the odd sound of it. Of course now I need to button up a few things like brake parts and putting new tires on it but you cant beat a FREE bike right?

Trav-i · « **Reply #3 on:** July 14, 2010, 10:43:38 AM »

Nope can't be free!

Good one on ya for getting it up and running. My bike was also "free", but ended up costing a small fortune to put together. Oh well I guess that's just part of the adventure, eh? Good luck with the final tuning, it's really not to hard to do once you get the hang of it.

Travis

jbonham · « **Reply #4 on:** July 14, 2010, 02:39:37 PM »

Anyone know specifics on adjusting the throttle? The grip really doesn't spring back to idle like other bikes I have had. Is this normal or do I need to tweak something to get that action to happen? I would think that the carb return spring would have something to do with that but the spring doesn't have enough pullback I guess?

mgbgt89 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 14, 2010, 02:43:39 PM »

There is a screw with a spring on it on the bottom side of the throttle housing. It could be too tight. It adds friction to the throttle action to make it a little easier to hold open.

KB02 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 15, 2010, 04:50:46 AM »

Almost sounds like it's not quite running on all four. Check your plugs to see what they look like.

Great job on getting it going, though!!

Johnie · « **Reply #7 on:** July 15, 2010, 05:25:30 AM »

Those K1 carbs can have issues on the throttle return when they sit a while. I had 2 issues going with mine. I thought it was only the old and dirty cables, but it was also the cross bar the carb slide arms attach to was dirty and corroded at the area they attach to that bar. I used some PB Blaster on those pivot points and that cleared it up.

jbonham · « **Reply #8 on:** July 15, 2010, 02:10:54 PM »

Pulled the carbs off this morning and shot em with carb cleaner in all the appropriate places. Obviously they haven't been synched yet but that should happen this weekend sometime. Is it strange that I got the bike to fire yesterday for a few minutes or so and now I get nothing? I cleared up the problem with the throttle not returning to idle but the stinkin thing just wont start. The idle mixture screw adjustment does nothing that I can tell. Any suggestions for what else I can do here?

Also, I made sure that I was getting spark to all of the plugs.

Thanks.

jbonham · « **Reply #9 on:** July 16, 2010, 01:44:49 PM »

Looks like the main issue with my bike was fuel delivery from the tank. I took the valve off and cleaned it obsessively until I was happy. Once I got everything back on the bike fired right up and idles nicely, I think! I don't have a comparison of what the bike should sound like but It doesn't sound as though it is missing.

I think the bike has a heavy sound because one of the exhaust is eaten through with rust and kind of held together. Otherwise I think it sounds ok.

here's video.

Now my problem is adjusting the clutch. The bike goes into gear but the bike doesn't start rolling. What do you think is wrong?

Johnie · « **Reply #10 on:** July 16, 2010, 01:52:36 PM »

It actually sounds real nice to me. I did not hear a miss either. Have you gone through the manual regarding clutch adjustment? Could be as simple as the adjustment on the handlebars or you may have to make an adjustment at the spot the cable enters the clutch housing below. Both can be done without removing much. There is an adjustment on the bars, at the spot it enters the housing and then under the right side cover is another adjustment. The service manual will give you the directions. Nice sounding bike I think. Remember not to let it idle to long without a fan on the motor or you can overheat it.

jbonham · « **Reply #11 on:** July 16, 2010, 04:18:49 PM »

I went through the manuals I have. I have the original and the Clymer version and have made several adjustments to both ends of the cable. This may be more telling though that even with the bike in gear, it doesn't act like it wants to move forward. Am I looking at a transmission problem here or just the clutch adjust?

Johnie · « **Reply #12 on:** July 16, 2010, 06:59:59 PM »

Just a word of caution to you...my 1969 edition KO owners manual on page 58 says to "turn the clutch adjusting screw in the counterclockwise direction until a slight resistance is felt." Actually it should read "clockwise" not "counterclockwise." I found this error when I then went into the service manual. This was talking about adjusting it under the right side cover. Just though I would share that with you as when I did it following the wrong directions my bike would not move either.

jbonham · « **Reply #13 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:41:47 PM »

Thanks for that. It says counterclockwise in my manual as well. One thing I found after adjusting is that I get it to shift into first and the bike wants to go. Then I go to shift into second and the lever seems like it doesn't want to shift to the next gear. I checked everything ahead of time and it seems as though all the gears were in good condition. Is all of this remedied by the clutch adjustment as well?

Thanks

Johnie · « **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2010, 05:42:21 AM »

If your tranny is mechanically in good condition then you should be able to remedy it by the clutch adjustment. However, if you have a bent shift fork you could have the problem of not being able to shift into gear. Have you removed the right chrome side cover with the 3 screws. That is were you could make an adjustment if you are getting no change from the hand lever adjustmemt.
Have you actually been able to ride the bike in 1st gear yet or will in not move at all?

jbonham · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2010, 11:20:59 AM »

I am getting movement in first gear and trying to adjust for second although I just started working on it again.

jbonham · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2010, 12:07:56 PM »

Update.

After getting it adjusted for first gear I decided to stroll down the street on it in first to see what happened. Amazingly, when I went for second it was there and had power. The same was true for gears 3-5. I didn't really get up past about 30mph but it was enough for me to be comfortable that I had the clutch issue worked out.

Thanks for the correction on the clockwise/counterclockwise bit. It helped a lot.

Johnie · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2010, 03:18:00 PM »

Quote from: jbonham on July 17, 2010, 12:07:56 PM

Update.

After getting it adjusted for first gear I decided to stroll down the street on it in first to see what happened. Amazingly, when I went for second it was there and had power. The same was true for gears 3-5. I didn't really get up past about 30mph but it was enough for me to be comfortable that I had the clutch issue worked out.

Thanks for the correction on the clockwise/counterclockwise bit. It helped a lot.

I am glad I sent you that info about the incorrect info in the owners manual. I still recall doing my KO and went from moving to no movement too. Could not figure it out. Opened the Honda "service manual" and noted the error. Sounds like you have a mover there now. Keep at it...

jbonham · « **Reply #18 on:** July 17, 2010, 04:09:30 PM »

Yeah, still some things that are needed for completion but they don't keep it from running. Still need to get the master cylinder (looking for one) and associated cables in place, the rear brake works thankfully, headlight and then the tires. Tires seem to be the most perplexing to me because there is a lot of info out there, including these forums, that point me in a million different directions. I typed in a forum search on tires and got more information that I really wanted. Oh well, I guess it is all part of having an old bike, right?

Johnie · « **Reply #19 on:** July 17, 2010, 04:55:56 PM »

I had asked this board about tires for my KO. They pointed me to the Continental K112's. I have them on the KO, K1 & K4. Really like them too. Cost is about $99 for the front and $132 for the rear. Below is a couple pics of what they look like.

jbonham · « **Reply #20 on:** July 17, 2010, 07:54:23 PM »

When looking at the tires that are on the bike the front has a 3.25 designation on it. They are the original continentals I am guessing. Not sure what the sizes are as the information on the tire doesn't seem to have the three number size. Example 180/20/17 or whatever. I will take a look at the k112's closer when I get ready to buy.

Thanks Johnie. You have been a big help.

tgtint · « **Reply #21 on:** July 17, 2010, 08:36:57 PM »

Here are couple vids to help out. Mine sounded like a lawn mower when not running on all four. I'm still really new at this too, my pipes weren't getting hot on 2 & 3 either since they weren't firing.

Video running on 1 and 4 (tractor vid

)

Video running on all four (Happy CB750)

Johnie · « **Reply #22 on:** July 18, 2010, 05:56:42 AM »

Here is the actual numbers listed on my invoice on those Conti K112's which will help you out if you do order them.
Front: RB2 325H19 - $100
Rear: K112 400H18A - $132
These were from my local dealer. He helps me out a lot and gives me a nice deal on mounting. So I did pay more for them, but he is a good guy to me.
Don't forget to get new tubes with these.

jbonham · « **Reply #23 on:** July 18, 2010, 10:45:09 AM »

Those tires are exactly the ones I found on Continentals website last night. I took a screen shot of the page and filed it away on the computer so I would have it when I got ready. It helps to know that someone else here is having good luck with those tires. I found a local place here that has come recommended highly by some riding friends of mine and Tuesday I will see what he can do for me. I would be willing to pay a little extra if the mount is less painful.

Some of the shops around here are hit or miss. There is one I go into more often than any other only because I have come to know them and the parts guy is kind of crazy/funny. If I go there I always know it will be entertaining whether I am looking to buy something or not and they aren't d-bags. Other shops I stay away from because of a bad experience or that if you aren't there to specifically buy something they make you feel awkward for just looking around. A new shop opened up just 10 mins north of me and I will be going Tuesday. From what I have heard, they are always willing to help and don't mind the guy who comes in to "dream" a little but doesn't have the cash to buy.

Should be selling a car soon so I may have the cash for the tires and other parts I need before the summer is gone. How hard is it to adjust the brakes on these bikes? I am hitting up the manual now for some direction in that area. Front brake seems to be dragging because I get a squeal every rotation but the bike doesn't seem to be badly affected by it. That may have something to do with the fact that I don't have the master cylinder, cables and lever on yet. Fine tuning is easier at this point since I am more familiar with the bike in general.

I have a great sense of accomplishment now that it runs.

Cheers!

Johnie · « **Reply #24 on:** July 18, 2010, 12:06:11 PM »

Back brake is easy to adjust. Front brake on that bike I would suggest you rebuild the caliper and master before you even go any further. That bike sat for 20+ years you said, so it is due. Mine sat 17 years and take a look at the caliper crap when I took it apart. Two Tired has a good tuturial on the subject as does the Hondaman book. Plus, there is a good forum piece on it you should be able to find with a search.

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Author Topic: Alive!!!! But still needs some work. (Read 1716 times)