Author Topic: Aftermarket Stainless braided brake hoses......... (Read 3643 times)

KCs76Cafe · « **on:** February 14, 2006, 06:50:38 PM »

While I have my master cyl off for a rebuild because it is leaking, I figured I would clean up the look of the front end by replacing the brake hoses also.

I am putting Clubmans on my 76 CB 750 K and was wondering if anyone else that is running Clubmans has replaced the upper hose from the master cyl with a shorter one. I havent got to the point of mocking up the handlebars yet so Im looking for a roundabout length for the top hose. I know it has to be shorter than the stock 21" .

I was also looking at the lower hose on the bike and it seems to be way longer than needed.......has a big loop towards the engine. The length of it is 22" Could somebody give me a measurement of their stock lower hose?

Thx,

KC

cben750f0 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 14, 2006, 09:27:37 PM »

i got lines made at my local hydraulics shop.... went in there they measured, and put the fittings on, and left them loose, so when i had fitted them i could get the hose to site spot on, i am using these on the double front brake set up.... just a thought...peace

paulages · « **Reply #2 on:** February 14, 2006, 09:43:15 PM »

just curious---how much did the hydrolic shop charge you to make them?

theunrulychef · « **Reply #3 on:** February 15, 2006, 05:26:24 AM »

Is a hydraulics shop the same thing as a brake shop here in America, or did you go to a commercial hydraulics repair place? I'd rather go local instead of sending them off in the mail.

KB02 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 15, 2006, 05:32:46 AM »

when I put my clip ons on my 750, I made a stop by the local Harley shop and just bought the parts that I was going to need and built the hoses myself. The SS braided hose came in a spool of about ten feet and then the ends were separate. My top line went from about 21 inches to about 10.

The problem that I found around here, as far as taking everything to a brake shop is concerned, is that we are dealing with stuff much small than most places are ever willing to look at. They will look at it with a great deal of interest until you tell them that it came off of a motorcycle. Then they had everything back to you and say something like, "Yeah... ummmm... your best bet is to stop by (Insert name of various bike dealership here) and have them look at it." Then, if you follow that advise, the bike places tell you to go back to the shop you were just at. Very perterbing.

I can post a pic if you would like.

cafe69 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 15, 2006, 07:50:44 AM »

Dennis Kirk sells the fittings and lines made by Goodrige. I am converting my 550 to dual disks and clip ons. So far what I have done is, buy the fittings so I can get everything mocked up/put together, and then I am going to measure for the proper length of the SS hose.

From what I can estimate: about 200 US when all said and done.

Butch

Teach · « **Reply #6 on:** February 15, 2006, 08:54:36 AM »

Quote from: cafe69 on February 15, 2006, 07:50:44 AM

Dennis Kirk sells the fittings and lines made by Goodrige. I am converting my 550 to dual disks and clip ons. So far what I have done is, buy the fittings so I can get everything mocked up/put together, and then I am going to measure for the proper length of the SS hose.

From what I can estimate: about 200 US when all said and done.

Butch

I'm going with the Goodridge lines as well. I ordered mine from a local shop that gives a pretty substantial Southern Cruisers discount. Did that same thing for the front, just got the fittings in the other day. BTW...be careful not to over-torque the banjo bolt...the heads will snap off like they're made of balsa wood.

n9viw · « **Reply #7 on:** February 15, 2006, 08:59:01 AM »

I got all my parts from Tom Summers (http://www.lowridersbysummers.com), Goodridge lines and Russell bits. The only part I didn't get from him was the K&L pressure switch banjo bolt I picked up from Dennis Kirk. Both banjo fittings are 30* angles, threaded into either end of the stainless braided line. I completely removed the t-junction on the lower tree, as well as the hard line at the caliper- just braided line and chrome fittings from the MC straight to the caliper. Things look MUCH cleaner now.

72cafe · « **Reply #8 on:** February 15, 2006, 10:06:06 AM »

So you have just the one line from the grip to the brake? What did you do, tell them the measurement you needed and just have them make it? Which model are they?

Sorry, 20 questions here.

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 15, 2006, 04:26:18 PM »

Any American V-Twin shop should have a good selection of "make your own brakes" parts from Goodridge.
I used to work at such a place, so I know

Quote from: Teach on February 15, 2006, 08:54:36 AM

be careful not to over-torque the banjo bolt...the heads will snap off like they're made of balsa wood.

Quote

Good point ! There is nothing worse than thinking you are almost done with your project, you go to tighten up the last
fitting, then SNAP !

KCs76Cafe · « **Reply #10 on:** February 15, 2006, 05:02:46 PM »

I was looking at the Goodridge universal braided lines in the Kirk catalog...thats when I decided to do the swap.

Quote

I completely removed the t-junction on the lower tree, as well as the hard line at the caliper- just braided line and chrome fittings from the MC straight to the caliper. Things look MUCH cleaner now.

That sounds like something I might want to do....eliminate the T junction would eleminate potential leak points. And I was wanting to do away with the hard line into the caliper as well.

KB02 and n9viw......could you post some pics please?

Thanks for the great info

bwaller · « **Reply #11 on:** February 15, 2006, 05:13:09 PM »

I'm very pleased with SpieglerUSA.com for SS lines & fittings. I talked to the owner with a question and he was very helpful. I received within a week of my order. ZX12 master and two lines direct to the calipers.

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 15, 2006, 06:23:34 PM »

Isn't the T-Junction where the front brake switch is located ?
If this is removed , your brakelight won't be activated by the front brakes anymore.

bwaller · « **Reply #13 on:** February 15, 2006, 07:50:42 PM »

There is a tiny mechanical switch attached to the bottom of the master cylinder actuated by the lever. Most manufacturers have used this type switch for some time. It eliminates two banjo fittings on that original hydraulic brake switch junction where air can get trapped, so you can run a single line (or two if double discs) from the master to the caliper. It really helps give a solid feel at the lever.

STLrocker · « **Reply #14 on:** February 15, 2006, 08:03:02 PM »

you can get a banjo bolt that has a pressure operated switch in it. which is what i believe n9viw has done. another way that i went was to use a later (78F in my case) master cylinder. which has an electric pin switch in it under the lever. either way, you can get rid of the pressure switch on the lower tree. and just run a single line down your fork tube straight to the caliper. cheaper that way to buy the lines cause you only have to buy one line, one banjo, and one caliper fitting. and it looks much nicer.

i got my lines from a local v-twin type shop. bought the correct premade length of goodridge lines and then bought the banjo fitting and the fitting to go iinto the caliper. they all just screw together. didnt have to have anything specially made, or assembled.

KB02 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 16, 2006, 06:11:21 AM »

okay, these pictures suck, but do you want from a cell phone

Like I said in my other post, http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=7400.0 I'm probably going to change out the mc if I can find one that will work, but this gives you an idea of what I have. the bottom pic show the huge, ugly connection that I have to invent to make the braided line connect to the steel line, which I had to replace as well. I challange you to find a parts store in Vermont that doesn't look at you funny when you say the word, "Metric."

Lumbee · « **Reply #16 on:** February 17, 2006, 07:55:53 AM »

www.helusa.com $50 shipped...

seabird · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2006, 11:17:43 AM »

If there are any UK riders interested in replacing the old rubber (yuch!) lines for braided line, contact Jim Morgan at info@discovolantemoto.com - I bought a replacement set from him at UK£32.99 - the lines are made by Terrozzi - my line now runs from the MC through the intermediary junction and then direct into the caliper - the "feel" is superb.

Seabird

cbjunkie · « **Reply #18 on:** February 18, 2006, 01:26:04 PM »

i hope these are getting added to the FAQs - i'm getting lines this summer...

dusterdude · « **Reply #19 on:** February 18, 2006, 01:32:17 PM »

me too

n9viw · « **Reply #20 on:** February 18, 2006, 02:42:08 PM »

STLRocker has it- I got the combo banjo bolt/brake switch from Dennis Kirk. I'm not crazy about how large it is, but them's the brakes... HA! I kill me.
I braved the searing cold (if you've never felt searing cold, you need to come to the midwest, it's a real trip...

) to get some pics of my setup, they're at http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/n9viw/album?.dir=/48bf . And SOMEONE owes me a hot toddy for that... no foolin, it's bitter-@$$ cold out there! (4*F according to weather.com)

WHALEMAN · « **Reply #21 on:** February 18, 2006, 02:53:44 PM »

I have called Spiegler twice and they told me they have no idea what type of fitting goes into a CB750 caliper. To me it looks like the Type 520 M10 x 1.25. I would perfer a direct connection into the caliper as opposed to a fitting. Does anyone know if the type 520 end works directly into the caliper?

n9viw · « **Reply #22 on:** February 18, 2006, 03:14:35 PM »

I have no idea what a type 520 end is, but here's what I used:
One of these: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp;jsessionid=WEOTABOKGSJ4TLA0WTKSM4VMDK0NKIV0?skuId=&store=Main&catId=416&productId=p198376&leafCatId=41604&mmyId= about 40" long, one of these: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=416&productId=p194424&leafCatId=41604&mmyId= . Combined with two of these: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=416&productId=p191338&leafCatId=41604&mmyId= , four of these: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=416&productId=p27487&leafCatId=41604&mmyId= , and one of these: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=416&productId=p210369&leafCatId=41604&mmyId= , and I was all set. All but the brake switch and gaskets came from www.lowridersbysummers.com .

bwaller · « **Reply #23 on:** February 18, 2006, 06:25:54 PM »

Whaleman, 10x1.25mm will thread into the caliper all right, but if you're not sure if this is the fitting you need and they can't tell you, send them that half of the caliper to be sure. In my case one of the 550 calipers I used had a damaged internal taper, so I drilled the fittings out of both, tapped the hole deeper, milled the top of the calipers flat and used 90degree banjos fitiings and bolts. It would have been easier to use the threaded fitting, but I had no choice.

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Author Topic: Aftermarket Stainless braided brake hoses......... (Read 3643 times)

theunrulychef

cafe69

Teach

72cafe

seabird

WHALEMAN