Topic: Do I have FrankenForks??

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Been cleaning up a new-to-me 750K4.  This week's project has been head bearings and all things forward of the neck.  I'm ready to reassemble my forks following a good cleaning and polish of the fork lowers (they turned out SWEET if I may say so myself!).

Anyway, I'm reading my Clymers and the Honda Shop Manual on how to reassemble the forks without screwing up any parts.  The two manuals don't agree, so I consult the K4 supplement to settle the argument.  Turns out it couldn't resolve the issues I'm seeing either!  Then it hits me.  At least I THINK I have it figured out.  But I'll present my quandary here just to get greater minds on the problem.

I'll start with a question to y'all.  OK, hands on buzzers.  Do you notice anything unusual about this particular collection of parts?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Maybe its not as obvious as I thought or maybe I'm just seeing things, but...

- The fork case (lower) is from a K4 due to the fixing screw that goes through the axle cradle to the free valve pipe
- then there is the free valve pipe itself (the 10-inch round tube with the aluminum bulb on the end)
- then there is the fork tube, decked out with piston type valves used on K0 thru early K2

So that's what I'm seeing.  A K4 case packed with earlier K parts.  I'm guessing the free valve tube is there so that the fixing screw has something to screw into.

It seems to work OK in this configuration.  I rode it around and didn't notice fork issues.  Head bearing indexing problems yes, but smooth suspension and no wheel hop.  When I drained the chocolate milk out of the tubes, I was able to "pump" more out and it came out with pretty good force.

So I guess the issue I'd like to pose to the experts is if this is a PO blunder that should be replaced with a matched set of parts or is this mix a common practice that is perfectly safe to do?

EDIT: Oh, and should I use the fork oil volume for the early K's?   

[mrrch]

You appear to have k0 -k2 forks.
Lower bushing is not used on later models.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Thanks mmrch. I'm sure the innards are early K. But the lower (case) is K4.  From my research, the K4 is the only year to use the fixing bolt to hold the free valve.  Even the free valve is a later part.

I'm planning to put it back together as I found it and use the early K oil volume. Will know more then

[754]

You have K1 or K2 lower legs

K2 or earlier fork tubes and bushings.
 Appears to be a K3 or later damper rod..usually the damper rod is stuck inside the lower legs , on K2 and down.

[Don R]

Early brake brackets.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

So them I DO have a matched set of parts, eh?  The early parts fiche doesn't show the fixing bolt nor the damper rod. 

[wrenchmuch]

That looks exactly like what I have in my K1 forks .

[754]

You dont have matched set, you have a K#, ie 1973ish damper rod.
 If it works, run it..