Topic: Who knows anything about boats?

[paulages]

I'm looking to buy a boat in a couple weeks, but don't know #$%* about them... The ones I've been looking at are 15 feet-ish, fiberglass, and in the 20-65 HP range. I'll be doing some fishing in it, but I'd also like to be able to get up and down the Willamette and Columbia at more than a crawl.

Does anyone here know boats and can help me find a good deal? here's a few examples of what i'm looking at:

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/boa/1862176950.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/boa/1853825016.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/boa/1858029499.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/boa/1862567167.html

[Stev-o]

I've had several boats and one of my best was a Sea Ray.
The boats you posted look pretty dated, how 'bout spending a little more, you'll be getting a lot more for your buck:

http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/boa/1865210594.html

[GammaFlat]

I was involved in a boat business for years (so I feel like I have some insights, albeit twisted ) and what I own now (and for the last 12 years) is a 17' BlueFin with an 85 HP Force (Chrysler).  The hull is riveted aluminum and the Force engine is not considered "top end stuff".  I intentionally avoided fiberglass because of maintenance.  You chip it a little and could have a hidden mess spreading like rust under the surface until you do a time-consuming fiberglass repair job.  Aluminum boats generally don't leak or take "must repair" damage with the same level of abuse as fiberglass.  If you own fiberglass you will need to maintain it.  The aluminum/rivets lose you speed but gain your confidence in maintenance.  If you want the speed back, spend more and go welded aluminum.  In terms of engines, I'm having good luck with an odd-ball brand (Force) but you may want to stick with one of the big names.  If you're a mechanical tinkerer, who cares.  Outboard boat engines are relatively simple.  Stay away from I/O arrangements - they are also more maintenance (alignment issues and outdrive maintenance). 

Consider something with a console and live well (even at 15 to 17 feet) - The console is something to hide behind when surf is up or the air is cold and the live well is great for fishing.  Go look at Cabella's for ideas about what turns you on - floor space, trolling motor, live well, bait well, console, seating, etc.  I have a fish finder (speed, water temp, odometer, etc.) and a 55lb thrust trolling motor.  Those are extras I didn't need but love both.  I've also bought new seats for it. 

My goals may have been different than yours.  #1 - I wanted as little maintenance as possible (I do lower end oil, winterize routine which is super simple and battery winter storage) #2 Good platform for fishing, joy riding and possibly skiing.  My boat is a 1988 (I think) and it's probably not worth more than $1000-2000.

I bought the boat with no skeg (fin just below and in front of the propeller).  As you can see in the picture the skeg is gone - you can also see the prop is taking damage (prop repairs/replacement are expensive).  I bought a new lower unit (just the shell) with a good skeg.  I'll get to it after the K6 engine comes out.   

[GammaFlat]

Wow - Merriggi's post has what looks like a nice value.  I don't like the glass and the outdrive but I'd consider it.  You'd $hit if you saw how appraisers check fiberglass hulls for problems... basically rapping with a fancy ball peen hammer up and down the hull... looking for "funny sounding" spots.  Each strike should yield a sharp "crack" as opposed to a thud.  Pay special attention to the transom and it's condition.  If it has been penetrated (by moisture)... especially near the out drive, that's a big job to fix. 

The "needs tune-up" issue is possibly spooky.  Understand that boat engines endure abuse like few other consumer applications.  Race motorcycle engines and airplane engines come to mind with similar usage patterns.  Boats spend a significant amount of time at full output.  One that is not running well should have compression check on the "to-do" list (possibly before purchase). 

[BeSeeingYou]

The Columbia is pretty good size water is it not.  I would look at something in the 17 foot range and no smaller.  Better load carrier, handles larger engines, more comfortable and larger is faster with boats. 

[mrblasty]

17 ft and 50 + HP should handle both of those rivers nicely.  I liked the 13 footer in the pics you posted.

[paulages]

i knew this forum would turn up some good help... is there any field without an expert (amateur at least) on here? thanks guys!

I need to stay in the $700 or less range... any more than that and i'm dipping into motorcycle money, and well.. okay, no explanation needed.    of course I don't want to just throw money away if something is going to be a nightmare, but I figure with the economic situation there have to be plenty of people selling good boats who just need the money more than the boat. I'm also not afraid of working on something, but it's mid summer and I want to be in the water ASAP. the links i posted were examples more than anything.

good advice on the aluminum hull, GammaFlat. Good advice on everything, really. i was looking at the glass boats because they seem to be more in my price range. yes, the columbia is pretty large, as is the willamette, at least around portland.

that searay looks great, just a little more than i think i want to spend right now.

[MickeyX]

This is generally what I would steer you towards for what you want/need/starter type of boat for the Willamette and surrounding rivers. Not for the ocean but good for all around here, Paul. $950

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/boa/1852333441.html

I grew up on boats... sail and motorized. If I was looking, this is one I would bother to drive to and look at for your general price range. I would offer them less, like $800-850 though. But, as Kit can tell you, I'm like that.  

this one is also worth it IMO... http://salem.craigslist.org/boa/1835068123.html

If you want to think outside the box a bit, these are actually a lot of fun, easy to maneuver and good on the river around here... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/boa/1865233954.html

[paulages]

This is generally what I would steer you towards for what you want/need/starter type of boat for the Willamette and surrounding rivers. Not for the ocean but good for all around here, Paul. $950

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/boa/1852333441.html

I grew up on boats... sail and motorized. If I was looking, this is one I would bother to drive to and look at for your general price range. I would offer them less, like $800-850 though. But, as Kit can tell you, I'm like that.  

for fishing and just tooling around, i like that one. for cruising around up and down the columbia with a few people, do you think that would be adequate? for starters, i have no clue what 10 HP or 65 HP feels like in a boat. honestly, I hate when people speed around on a lake like lake timothy, as it makes it annoying to canoe and/or enjoy nature peacefully. that said, it would be great to be able to get up to bonneville dam or willamette falls without taking forever. secondly, I'd like to be able to seat a few people somewhat comfortably to go on outings. thirdly, i like the ones with canopies, which would make fall through spring fishing a little more comfortable.

maybe the picture is deceiving, but doesn't that boat look a little small? 12' or less?

[paulages]

what about this one?

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/boa/1865220468.html

there seem to be several in this range that claim to run and float well. also, i'd go up to $900 or so for the right boat.

[MickeyX]

I wouldn't go with an inboard setup. JMHO. Like was said before, your best bet on an older boat is aluminum. It's very hard to verify a fiberglass hull. Insurance will be looking at it closely and can turn you down just for the hull. (well, unless you're going to forgo the insurance part  )

[MickeyX]

how's about this... just needs a starter. A guy like you should be able to take care of that...

http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/boa/1836712850.html

[paulages]

I wouldn't go with an inboard setup. JMHO. Like was said before, your best bet on an older boat is aluminum. It's very hard to verify a fiberglass hull. Insurance will be looking at it closely and can turn you down just for the hull. (well, unless you're going to forgo the insurance part  )

insurance, what's that?   if it sinks, it'll be habitat creation, right?

[BeSeeingYou]

Those boats that Kit listed may be ok for one person but add 1 or 2 more and it won't be able to plane and will be slow, burying it's stern in the water if you use full throttle.  Inflatables are really versatile but you have to go up to the larger sizes to get one able to handle a large engine as well as a hard transom and a keel.  The one on that list would be almost useless for anything but slow puttering around.  I have an 8 foot inflatable Achillies sport boat w/transom and keel and it will just plane with two but I have to use a 7.5hp to do it and the boat is rated for 6 and I can feel that it is being stressed.  With 1 on board it is a blast, fast and stable.  In aluminum look for a deep V hull and at least 25hp.

[paulages]

how's about this... just needs a starter. A guy like you should be able to take care of that...

http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/boa/1836712850.html

i saw that one... the only thing that makes me nervous is trusting that's the only thing wrong with it if i can't hear it run.

[MickeyX]

or this...  http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/boa/1827923962.html

[paulages]

or this...  http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/boa/1827923962.html

that one looks great, assuming the "work needed" won't be a big deal. i really don't want to buy a boat and then have it sit at my shop all summer being fixed. in theory a fixer-upper is right up my alley though. hell, i don't know the first thing about an outboard motor.. at least the inboards look familiar! when i finish this job i'm on i'll have some money and free time again, so maybe that one's not a bad option.

EDIT: wait, i just noticed that it says chev 4 cylinder gas engine...

[Hush]

Jez your boats are cheap, mine cost me $15k and she's an 85 model with a 93 Evinrude on the back.
I prefer fibreglass to tinnies (alloy boats) as we have very little protection where I live from the weather if it turns (and it does) nasty.
We tend to think of fibreglass boats as "wave crushers" whereas the tinnies tend to bounce around on the tops of the waves, both are OK for general fishing.
One point of note for you Paul is maintenance, it costs me $1500 every year to have my engine serviced and the gaskets replaced, probably less if you are only running fresh water through the motor as opposed to sea water though.
Boats engines are rated by the hours run and most boats don't do great distances before getting to the fishing grounds or where ever so even though my egine is 25 years old the V4 has only done 150 hours.
Um someone once told me (before I bought my first boat) that a boat can realistically be described as "a hole in the water that you throw money into".....never a truer word was said.

[paulages]

is trucoarse steering a good thing? researching a little tells me that it seems so.

[paulages]

also, should i have some clue what i'm doing before i shove off into the willamette? mickey, wanna give me a few boating lessons when i buy? 

[Hush]

Damn Mickey, that's a $10k boat here in NZ even needing work!

[MickeyX]

Ok, so now we have the story as... you know nothing about boats or boating so of course you are willing to put some $$ into a used boat because you don't know any better   cause if you did, you'd just buy another cycle, don't mind a fixer upper, but then again, don't necessarily want one, need something that is at least 17' and 65hp, for under $700 with a trailer. Do I have that right?

You don't ask for much, do you, Paul? Holy #$%*, man. I need more beer before I go back on CL.  

in other news, we just bought 2 - 8' kayaks today. we went the "small, no motor, less to ruin and hurt ourselves" kind of way.  

[paulages]

Ok, so now we have the story as... you know nothing about boats or boating so of course you are willing to put some $$ into a used boat because you don't know any better   cause if you did, you'd just buy another cycle, don't mind a fixer upper, but then again, don't necessarily want one, need something that is at least 17' and 65hp, for under $700 with a trailer. Do I have that right?

You don't ask for much, do you, Paul? Holy #$%*, man. I need more beer before I go back on CL.  

in other news, we just bought 2 - 8' kayaks today. we went the "small, no motor, less to ruin and hurt ourselves" kind of way.  

yeah, you got me nailed mickey! the thing is, i'll obsess over it and know everything about the damn boat in 2 weeks, i just want help making a good decision to get started. AND, i'm never afraid to jump head first into something i know nothing about. pretty much every skill i have has come to me that way. 

[MickeyX]

also, should i have some clue what i'm doing before i shove off into the willamette? mickey, wanna give me a few boating lessons when i buy?  

ah, well, you need a license to operate a boat with a motor on Oregon waterways. any boat, kayak, whatever over 10' needs to get a permit too.  

the nice thing is, you can take the course online.

I've taken my classes through the coast guard in the past for a few states out east. I haven't needed one yet in OR since I don't have a motor boat. It's not hard, it's just you need to learn the rules of the road/water so you don't cause a problem or accident. then you have to learn to steer, back off of a trailer, pull into a dock (side slip) without damaging #$%*, moor out safely, etc. it's not hard but there are a lot of things to consider.

[paulages]

also, should i have some clue what i'm doing before i shove off into the willamette? mickey, wanna give me a few boating lessons when i buy?  

ah, well, you need a license to operate a boat with a motor on Oregon waterways. any boat, kayak, whatever over 10' needs to get a permit too.  

the nice thing is, you can take the course online.

I've taken my classes through the coast guard in the past for a few states out east. I haven't needed one yet in OR since I don't have a motor boat. It's not hard, it's just you need to learn the rules of the road/water so you don't cause a problem or accident. then you have to learn to steer, back off of a trailer, pull into a dock (side slip) without damaging #$%*, moor out safely, etc. it's not hard but there are a lot of things to consider.

yeah, i looked into it a little online, but didn't find the test. i was half-teasing you about the help... i'll obviously have to get a license and all, but will still end up going out wet behind the ears, so to speak. hell, i guess that's how i learned to ride...wait, actually i just took off and waited a couple years to actually get my endorsement.