Author Topic: Brand new clutch is slipping, is it my oil? (Read 10858 times)

adamb · « **Reply #25 on:** June 27, 2010, 10:42:46 PM »

Both plates and spings are to spec according to the manual.

scottly · « **Reply #26 on:** June 27, 2010, 10:56:41 PM »

Have you measured total plate stack, both old and new?

adamb · « **Reply #27 on:** June 27, 2010, 11:22:23 PM »

No, but I can tell you the new plate stack height by simply adding up the measurements and giving that to you. For the old stack, I can take the measurements and add those up, too.

If the plates are at spec according to the manual, I'm not all that inclined to worry about the whole stack.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #28 on:** June 28, 2010, 02:45:06 AM »

Quote from: hosspowerinc on June 27, 2010, 01:31:31 PM

Quote from: Bob Wessner on June 27, 2010, 12:47:10 PM
Jeez, can't believe I'm replying to an oil thread, but I've been using Mobil 1 10w40 for several years. It does not say e-conserving as stated and I have no clutch slippage.

But its motorcycle specific right? Im pretty sure the OP used the auto spec 10w-30.

No, not MC specific.

haill · « **Reply #29 on:** June 28, 2010, 04:24:40 AM »

to me when reading your first post that you got 6 springs in the kit instead of 4 leads one to think that you've got the wrong kit.
is it oem from honda that you bought or an aftermarket unit?
sometimes it's the first thing you do that is the mistake, till you realize at the end that you made a mistake.

adamb · « **Reply #30 on:** June 29, 2010, 06:52:49 PM »

I *did* think it was odd that it had six springs; but according to bike bandit, it was the right set! However, since the lengths were the same, and because the tension was about the same, I figured, "Well, perhaps it's close enough". I'll have a look at bikebandit and see what they have to say for themselves.

adamb · « **Reply #31 on:** June 29, 2010, 10:02:30 PM »

Oh, Also, according to the Honda dealership up here, you can't get OEM springs anymore. I was checking bikebandit earlier, and the various clutch kits don't mention how many springs are in the kits, so I don't rightly know. But, the clutch kit DOES say it's for an '81 CB650; the honda parts sites I've been to have the same springs for the 1979-1981 CB650, 1980-1981 CB 650 Custom, and the 1982 CB650 Nighthawk.

So, I dunno. I suppose I can try buying new springs, but I'm not so sure that they'll be different. Local Honda shop says to give it a bit more time. I think I might do that, but we have to have at least a single hour without rain, first.

adamb · « **Reply #32 on:** July 09, 2010, 07:53:01 PM »

So, I've put ~100 miles on my clutch, and it's still slipping. Since the clutch plates appear fine, I'm going to try to hang a weight from my new springs, and see how it compares to the old springs. I'll measure the "unweighted" length, and the 'weighted' length, and see what the difference is.

Also, I'm going to try to find a place that'll sell me proper springs. The springs I bought from bikebandit.com are *allegedly* for my bike, and are *allegedly* 10% stiffer, but they just aren't working properly - it's slipping more now, which sucks.

Any suggestions for a place to get extra-stiff springs?

adamb · « **Reply #33 on:** July 09, 2010, 10:46:51 PM »

My crappy tests cause me to conclude those springs are nowhere near stiff enough. Off to an e-tailer...

scottly · « **Reply #34 on:** July 09, 2010, 11:01:16 PM »

Try re-installing your old springs with the new clutch pack.

adamb · « **Reply #35 on:** July 10, 2010, 04:16:51 PM »

Yeah, I thought about that. I might give it a whirl - although I sure am sick of buying new oil. I did my best capturing all the mobil-1 synthetic oil since it's so bloody expensive - not for a car, or an engine, but for other uses - it'd be a pity to waste another $24 in official honda oil. I wonder if I almost lay the bike on it's left side, if it wouldn't leak any oil. I'd just have to make sure not to drop anything in the case....

And, next time, I'm going to put in cheapo oil. We'll see what happens then, too.

adamb · « **Reply #36 on:** July 13, 2010, 12:00:11 AM »

Swapped out the springs, took a little less than an hour from the time I put the wrench on the oil drain bolt to the time I took the funnel out of the dipstick hole and screwed it back in.

The "old" springs definitely have a "harder" pull. My guess is that it'll slip less than the springs from BikeBandit.com, but it might still slip a little.

Either way, I'm ahead of the game if the clutch doesn't slip when I pour on the power in second through fifth. Probably won't be as good as brand new springs, but hey - at least I won't be burning up my clutch like crazy with the 'new' springs I bought. Perhaps this winter I'll replace those springs.

I'll let you all know...

scottly · « **Reply #37 on:** July 13, 2010, 12:06:44 AM »

You might try shimming your old springs, at least until you can get the proper ones.

adamb · « **Reply #38 on:** July 13, 2010, 10:50:33 AM »

I thought of that too; putting some washers in there, but given my tendency to do things the 'fast and dirty' way, I figured I'd see how they work, and then depending on how they act, either let it go, or just schedule the next tear-down for this winter.

bradweingartner · « **Reply #39 on:** July 13, 2010, 11:37:54 AM »

If you drain the oil into a perfectly clean container there is no reason you can't reuse it!

I wouldn't hesitate.

i_m_jon · « **Reply #40 on:** July 13, 2010, 03:16:08 PM »

Just an FYI about the energy conserving oils. Only 20 and 30 weight oils can be energy conserving; they are primarily automotive oils. Anything heavier than 30w would not be energy conserving and won't have friction modifiers. It will either say "energy conserving" OR have the "starburst" symbol on it. I'm pretty sure Mobil-1 uses the "starburst" symbol. Regular Mobil-1 10w30 is most definitely energy conserving oil however the "High Mileage" version is not. I happen to agree with TT that the oil is not the primary problem in this case.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #41 on:** July 13, 2010, 03:34:33 PM »

Quote from: bradweingartner on July 13, 2010, 11:37:54 AM

If you drain the oil into a perfectly clean container there is no reason you can't reuse it!

I wouldn't hesitate.

+1, use a clean container and strain the oil through a piece of cloth then reuse..

Mick

adamb · « **Reply #42 on:** July 14, 2010, 09:23:36 PM »

I did reuse the oil. It was spotless.

adamb · « **Reply #43 on:** July 17, 2010, 09:51:19 PM »

First sunny day in a while: Took the bike for a spin.

Better than it was before all the work, but not as perfect as it could be. Clutch doesn't disengage when I pour on the power (as when the softer springs were in) and doesn't float a little when I'm giving it a lot of gas and change gears (as it did before I switched out the plates.) Doesn't totally grab as well as I'd like, but it's better than it used to be. Success! Come winter, I'll swap out my springs.

vern401 · « **Reply #44 on:** July 17, 2010, 09:58:33 PM »

Most that I have seen going synthetic are using Rotilla Diesel oil.
I use mineral oil myself so far but have thought about switching over. Just havent..
I've been watching the posts to see what is and what is not working.

Kframe · « **Reply #45 on:** August 05, 2010, 07:52:10 PM »

You can get nice and strong springs, as well as all the plates/rings, from Barnett.

Check out their site:
http://barnettclutches.com/products/clutch_plates_springs.aspx?type=clutches_other&clutch_make=Honda&clutch_cc=650

-K

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Author Topic: Brand new clutch is slipping, is it my oil? (Read 10858 times)