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Author Topic: Cold start issues  (Read 4162 times)

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Offline lassenc

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Cold start issues
« on: February 21, 2006, 09:08:56 AM »
Back again :)

I've got trouble starting my engine when it's cold.

I've noticed that when I turn in the idle screw, it gets easier to start, but it ain't a good solution.

When turning the throttle it's just dead, under the starting procedure that is.

Full choke, and just kicking the kickstarter is what I do.
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

Offline diamondd

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2006, 09:31:02 AM »
What kind of bike. My 750 is cold nature. This time of year I usually put a space heater on it for a short time and it will fire up easily. It also has a hard time idling up till it gets up to temp then it idles with out any problems. I think some sohc's are just cold nature.
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2006, 09:51:02 AM »
Weren't you complianing in another thread about a weak battery?
You get ignition spark from the battery.  Weak/low battery = Weak/no spark.
Charge your battery.  And/ or take out your headlight fuse, temporarily for starting, as it draws the battery voltage even lower and weakens the battery during kickstart.

Cold engines also don't aerosol fuel as well as warm or hot ones.  And, are thus more difficult to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the cylinders.

Cheers,

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Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline dusterdude

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2006, 12:17:16 PM »
mine is cold blooded too
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mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

eldar

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2006, 01:19:31 PM »
Make sure your choke is working right. Check that the flaps close when full choke is applied. My 78k usually starts with no trouble if choke is on.
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Vatch

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2006, 02:13:42 PM »
Quote from: eldar, Master of the K8 Thunder! on February 21, 2006, 01:19:31 PM
Make sure your choke is working right. Check that the flaps close when full choke is applied. My 78k usually starts with no trouble if choke is on.


Yeah, that was my problem.  The flaps were closing 90-95% of the way, which was fine for startups unless it was cold.  Fixing that problem made a huge difference for cold starts. 
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Offline BobbyR

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2006, 02:23:41 PM »
They are all cold blooded in this era. I have a Kawasaki that will not start at all under freezing. My 750 is a much better, but still a chore. Check for air leaks around the carb rubbers.
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Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2006, 03:17:03 PM »
Well, yes, I did complain about a weak battery, I'll take it for a long spin to charge it up again :)

I always turn lights off when starting the engine.
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

Offline Gordon

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2006, 04:20:32 PM »
A few things off the top of my head that will make cold starting more difficult than it needs to be, aside from what's already been mentioned:

Poor connection between plug wire and cap.
Crappy, old plug caps or wires.
Old, dirty spark plugs..
Improper timing and/or points gap settings.
Improper valve clearance.
Imbalanced or partially clogged carbs/carb vacuum leak.
Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. 

These are basically in order of ease of maintenance, with de-coking the combustion chamber being the most labor-intensive but also probably the most beneficial task overall. 

It is possible for these bikes to start easily in cold weather.  Last week I started my '71 750K at -5 deg F, after sitting unused for three days, with just three kicks of the lever. 

Turned idle screw up 1.5 turns
Closed choke fully
Kicked it twice with ignition off to prime cylinders
Kicked once with ignition on, and it started. 

It's a combination of having the fuel and ignition systems in good condition, and knowing your bike and what it needs under certain circumstances. 
 
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2006, 04:24:18 PM »
Hey Gordon, did you ever try the D7EA spark plugs for winter use?

Cheers,
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Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Gordon

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2006, 05:03:04 PM »
Quote from: TwoTired on February 21, 2006, 04:24:18 PM
Hey Gordon, did you ever try the D7EA spark plugs for winter use?

Cheers,

Hell yes, and I can't thank you enough for the suggestion! ;D

I can't say if it had any effect on the initial start-up since I never had any problems with that in the first place, but the warm-up time has been cut in half!  I ride the exact same 5 mile/20 minute route to work every day, and before with the D8EA plugs I was still turning the idle speed down when I got there.  Now, with the D7EA, the idle holds steady at 1200rpm after only about 2 miles, even in the coldest weather.  Thanks!!
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Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2006, 11:22:42 PM »
This morning was a NO GO.

I've been fighting it for 25 minutes right now, which caused me to show 90 minutes late for school.

Can't understand it, better get that battery fully charged ASAP.
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2006, 12:25:44 AM »
Quote from: eldar, Master of the K8 Thunder! on February 21, 2006, 01:19:31 PM
Make sure your choke is working right. Check that the flaps close when full choke is applied. My 78k usually starts with no trouble if choke is on.


Do I need to unmount my carbs for that? I could give them a good cleaning at the same time then, maybe even a rebuild.

Where do I get rebuild kits?
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2006, 04:35:43 AM »
Quote from: TwoTired on February 21, 2006, 04:24:18 PM
Hey Gordon, did you ever try the D7EA spark plugs for winter use?

Cheers,

I've got DR7EA in mine.

Guess the R defines another threadlength.
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

Offline dusterdude

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #14 on: February 22, 2006, 04:52:36 AM »
r should denote a resistor plug,buy non resistors and try them,they might help.
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mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #15 on: February 22, 2006, 05:01:59 AM »
Quote from: dusterdude on February 22, 2006, 04:52:36 AM
r should denote a resistor plug,buy non resistors and try them,they might help.

Okay, well, it's been running with these for quite some time.

I'll go for the other ones then!
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

eldar

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2006, 08:31:38 AM »
Oh it will run on the resistor plugs but it is harder to start and will not run as good as you are now finding out.
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Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2006, 09:09:27 AM »
What's the point in making them then?
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

eldar

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #18 on: February 22, 2006, 09:11:44 AM »
Some engines use them. Ours however already have resistance built into the spark plug caps. So by using resistor plugs, you are doubling the amount of resistance to your spark.

Now if you got plug caps with no resistor, then you could use resistor plugs.
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Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #19 on: February 22, 2006, 09:15:48 AM »
Well, my caps CAN have been changed to non-resisting ones over the years, are there any serial or something I should check for on the cap?

I've ordered the D7EA for now, and set the battery to charge again, I'll return! :D
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

Offline dusterdude

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2006, 09:21:32 AM »
the main reason for resistor plugs is a)they do not interfere with electronics on cars and other devices that are near you when your bike/car is running.b)vehicles that use suppressor type plug wires need to use resistor plugs.no matter whether or not you have resistor plug caps the least resistance you can get to fire your plugs the better off you are,i would use non-resistor plugs regardless.
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mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #21 on: February 22, 2006, 10:00:45 AM »
Okay then!

I'll go for the non-resisting ones then :)
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

Offline dusterdude

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #22 on: February 22, 2006, 11:13:47 AM »
groovy
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mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

Offline lassenc

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #23 on: February 22, 2006, 12:40:21 PM »
I'll update you on the subject.

How do I check the if the choke doesn't fully open?
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How exactly do you teach abstinence though?
It's like beating a dead cow, it's fun, but it doens't really get you anywhere.

eldar

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Re: Cold start issues
« Reply #24 on: February 22, 2006, 01:30:10 PM »
Remove the airbox and look into your carbs. You will see the flaps. actuate the choke and watch them.
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